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'69 110 Resto. First attempt

6K views 38 replies 15 participants last post by  mitchdaly 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
See my introduction post for more details. I just got a 1969 110 and have started tearing it down to restore it. I have no idea what I am doing, nor how deep this is going to go. But I needed a new project and i'm up for the challenge. Here's what i'm working with. Someone please tell me how to easily rotate pics. I'm using Chrome on a Mac. Pics from an iPhone.
 

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#3 ·
#5 ·
No clue if it runs/drives/mows. It didn't have a battery and I didn't even bother trying to turn it over. I started taking the body apart yesterday. During the process, I got distracted and pulled the dip-stick. There was still oil in the motor. Although dark black, it still seemed to have some viscosity. No clouding from water or gunk. I'll be able to tell more when I drain it. Haven't looked at the the spark plug either.

I only had about 30 min to mess with it last night. Here's the beginning of the tear down. Some surface rust but no rust through. The hood is going to need a lot of work. It's been "repaired" before at least once.
 

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#7 ·
Not very big update. I've been continuing to tear down the mower as I have time between work and Wife projects. Everything I remove, I have been placing the hardware in little zip-lock bags and labeling them. Along with taking a picture prior to removal. I did get lucky at Advance Auto. I stopped in to get more PB Blaster(of course). It was buy one, get one 1/2 off. As I was leaving, I saw a gallon can on the clearance cart. $27. Not bad for a gallon. I was debating it, the manager saw me, grabbed it, rang it up and added another 50% discount. Don't know for sure what I will do with it but couldn't pass it up at that price.
 

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#8 ·
You can't go wrong with PB Blaster CKR1. I purchased a 112 two weeks ago and it could be your 110's brother. I've already started soaking down some of the bolts and nuts on it with Blaster. The only thing I like as good as it is Kroil. I enjoy seeing how others are bringing these SF's back to their glory. Keep up the good work.
 
#11 ·
Yesterday my wife went out with some friends so the only obvious choice was to drink beer and work on the mower. I actually got a good bit accomplished as far as I'm concerned. I pulled the motor, steering column and most of the pulley system. I've been pleasantly surprised that nothing seems to be rusted through and other than replacing a few bolts, washers and nuts, i've only found one pulley that will need to be replaced. Everything else appears to be in good shape and will just need refinishing. I have reached the point where the massive pile of parts is pretty intimidating. The "I hope I can put all this back together" part of the resto. I'll cross that bridge when I get there.
 

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#12 ·
The only thing confusing is where some of the springs were attached. If you have the parts book, it makes life easy to see HOW item A fits onto item B but won't always show where an item sets up under the frame. I make notes if I must. I could not ,for the life of me, remember where the secondary tensioner fit onto the tractor frame.

The best source of info is to have another tractor, just like the one you are working on. Hint Hint.
 
#13 ·
Looking good CKR,now take the 6 bolts from the hitch plate out,then separate the rearend,easier then trying to take the readend out first
 
#15 ·
You're doing it right! Can't do enough bag, tag, label, box, keep a notebook of sketches for putting back together (short screw goes here, long screw there etc.). Good phone camera is great as you can review photos when going back together. If you repair that fiberglass grind it back in steps and layers so you can overlay new glass and resin to tie it all together.

My 112RF restoration back in 2009. First one.
http://s1271.photobucket.com/user/kmondak49/library/John Deere 112 Restoration?sort=3&page=1
 
#16 ·
Been slow going because i'm also opening a Brewery and working a full time job. I had a little time to mess with the mower the other day. I've got one stubborn bolt that is keeping me away from getting the rear end separated from the frame.
Can someone tell me how the hell to get this skid plate/ deck attachment thing off?


Also, how do I rotate pictures? For the life of me, I can't figure it out on here.

Lastly, I was looking at information for the proper tire size as mine is mismatched so I don't know what is right. I noticed on the info page, a cigarette lighter was an accessory option. My how times have changed.
 

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#19 ·
Super busy weekend but I got a couple hours of time to mess with the mower. I've been stripping all the paint and primer off the frame using aircraft stripper, a paint scraper and an angle grinder. So far, the aircraft stripper has been extremely useful. Once I get all the paint stripped, I'm going to go over rust with Naval Jelly. I hope to have a bit more time in the next week or two to really get some progress made.
 

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#21 ·
I did my first about two winters ago. A 112. As others will tell you The manuals are a must. Get the Operators, Parts, and Service. I found this important because sometimes the picture that you need to see the part at the right angle is not in the service but can be seen in the operators. Also, I took the parts book to a copy service and had the pages blown up and laminated then each part can be place on a bench and accounted for with it's proper group. I spent a lot of hours at the wire wheel cleaning small parts. I got the larger parts blasted and primer powdercoated at a reasonable price. Good luck
 
#22 ·
I've had a couple hours over the last two nights to make some progress. It sucks living in a subdivision, during the summer when the garage door is open, not getting started until 8:00 pm and using an angle grinder... Anyway, Aircraft Stripper and polycarbonate quick strip disks work wonders. I'm not lazy by any stretch of the imagination but i'm always searching for a way to do it faster and easier. So far, this has been rather quick. Plus grinding on the frame is therapeutic, akin to peeling off the clear plastic from something new. I know I have a long way to go but i'm happy with the progress i've made so far.




I try to have more than one thing going at a time. That way, while the paint stripper is working, I'm grinding. Trying to maximize what little time I have.




 

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#24 ·
With the Holiday, the heat and other stuff going on, I haven't had much time to work on the tractor. Did get a little bit done yesterday. I do have a couple questions. Hopefully BigRed can help. There is a reddish colored what looks to be primer that is real hard to get off. Odd thing is in some spots, there is green, primer, then another layer of green. Is this normal or did someone repaint at some point? Also, what is everyone using to remove the paint and rust? I've been using aircraft stripper and an abrasive wheel on the angle grinder. It's effective for the most part but i'm burning through pads. Finally, what is the best way to fill in all the rust pits? Bondo?
 

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#25 ·
Looking good,keep at it! I sand blasted all my parts,what you are saying does indeed sound like a repaint,but I have been wrong before.I did't use any bondo in my restoration,and you can see it in places,if you want perfection I would use it though
 
#26 ·
Yes. Sand blasting is the way to go. I was in the same boat with the fender deck. I bought a sand blaster from harbor freight. Just haven't had time to do anymore work on the 68. I've been working from sunup to sundown for the last 45-50 days. But I had a freind of mine blast the frame. Defiantly the way to go. The aircraft stripper didn't work good where rust was. Could not scrape good.
 
#27 ·
I blew through about $60 worth of stripper wheels before I was fed up. Yours is looking great. This is my blasting cabinet, the fender deck will not fit but I have access to a sand blaster. That is what I will use to finish the fender deck.
 

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