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I need help with my 112rf

3K views 26 replies 7 participants last post by  MiniHomesteader 
#1 ·
Ok so I just picked up a really nice 67 112 with a 46 deck and 36 blower that I paid $1100 for which the wife wasn't really happy about but I needed a garden tractor and I know these are really strong tractors. It started up beautifully, I let it warm up, fired up the deck ( nice and quiet) and proceded to mow the guys yard for about ten minutes with no issues so I paid the man and we loaded it up. I got it home, unloaded it and two days later went to cut my grass and after about two minutes it started to carry on puffing some black smoke then shut off. So I turned in the mix screws a few turns, they were out really far. And proceded to start it. As soon as I would pull off the choke it would stumble and die. So I bumped out the mix screws and tried again. Same thing. It's at the point where the mix screws are about to fall out but still has to have choke closed to run. Help! Wife is threatening to put it on Craigslist!
 
#3 ·
I checked fuel shutoff and cleaned the sediment bowl and screen. And checked flow. I did get a little scared though seeing some threads mentioning head gaskets causing similar conditions.
 
#5 ·
I had two of these with the Tecumseh HH100 and they work great when they run, but the Walbro carb can be problematic. No where near as reliable ( in my opinion) as the Carter. They are very finicky. For starters I would take it apart and try a good cleaning and a rebuild. Not sure if you have the manual, but if not here is a link http://www.wfmfiles.com/download/manuals/SM2059 (Apr-67).pdf. Please read the section on the Walbro carb before you try and take apart. The high speed jet should not be removed. If it is a service jet needs to be installed as there is no way that the small holes can be lined up properly. Hopefully the PO did not mess with this.

If all else fails there are a couple of places that can rebuild for you. I had one that was a complete basket case as the tractor was left out in the weather for years. Valves rusted in places and the carb was full of water and silt. I could not get it to work. I sent if off to http://www.carbrescue.com and to my astonishment he cleaned it thoroughly and it runs perfect. I know of others that have also used this service with good results.
 
#6 ·
Thankfully this tractor came with all the manuals and a JD service manual for it. I've seen everyone praising carbrescue I'm just scared about pricing. I don't want to have to put out $200 to fix this, but I'm gonna need this thing running since I already sold my other snowblower and I'm not shoveling a 600 ft driveway! Would you mind mentioning what you were charged and what your carb needed so I have a general idea.
 
#7 ·
I had two done over a year or so. The one that I mentioned that was a real basket case cost me $135. The other one that he just did a thorough cleaning was $75 I think. He takes all the welch plugs out and cleans all the internals. Something that not your average person can do because he ends up making some of the parts when necessary. When you send it to him he contacts you with the estimate. so you know before he does all the work.
 
#8 ·
Sounds good. I think I'll do that. Thank you so much. Guess I'll have to wash my 111 and and dust off this 112 for some pics.
 
#12 ·
Well Roger you were right! After mowing about a half acre with my 111 I thought I'm looking at my 112. Pulled off the carb, pulled it apart and dropped it into the carb cleaner can. Pulled it out a half hour later and proceded to look it over and sure enough the main jet was loose. Snugged it up and put it all back together and crossed my fingers as I hit the key. And thankfully I got to mow the other half acre on the 112! Afterwards they both got a bath.
Im not sure if my 111 feels threatened by her new stable mate or what, but that old girl has never run better! But you just can't beat that variable drive when you haven't mowed in a few weeks!
 
#14 ·
Well this Tec is driving me nuts again. After that incident, and then the incident a few weeks ago blowing snow when the points closed up. Tonight I started it up to warm it up to drain out the winter oil. It ran for about fifteen minutes, then started to pop and stumble. I think it's time to send out the carb to carbrescue and put in a new set of points and spark plug and hope for the best. I'm not sure what else to do. I have spark, fuel, and a fresh air filter on it. It will try with a snuff of starting fluid, but just one puff of dark smoke and then quit. I'm at a loss with this tractor. And after all the talking up to my wife that this thing will do everything we need, she starting to get Craigslist in her eyes again.
 
#16 ·
Yeah, I'll be sending it to carbrescue. I hope that solves that problem.
Is there any way to upgrade the ignition system, or is it best to just use the kohler points?
 
#17 ·
Kirk Engines use to have something called a Point Saver system that I installed on one of my RF 110 with K181. It looks like there might be something else now called Trandenser II Electronic Ignition System
It says for Kohler engines, but I don't know what it would not work on Tecumseh. I would contact them and see what they say. http://www.kirkengines.com/index.php#1 He makes good quality stuff.

Bill
 
#18 ·
Well I just found the problem. I picked up one of those brass points push rods back in the fall. Well about three hours after I installed it, the point gap closed up. I figured I didn't have the screw tight enough, so I reset them and away I went. I decided to check the points this evening and they were closed up again, this time I pulled that push for out to inspect and wow is that wearing! So, where do I go now?? I've invested time and money in this tractor and fell in love with it. I'm at my wits end, and need this tractor running. Anyone have any idea what the original push rods were made of?
 
#19 ·
Hey Mini,

Check out this website: http://gardentractorpullingtips.com/. It is a very comprehensive site and he can probably give you the info that you need to solve your problem. He has been very responsive with any question that I have sent his way. I think you'll enjoy going through his website.

Mitch Daly
 
#21 ·
I put the original back in, I'll just have to drain the oil out of the points housing from time to time. I'm gonna pick up a new set of points. Might be from some different application with too much spring pressure. IDK. I'll be searching for good used ones in the mean time.
 
#22 ·
So the more I think about it, the more that worn plunger is bothering me. Anyone ever used a 16 penny nail to make a plunger? I've seen on MTF a few posts about that, and thinking about it, it doesn't sound that bad of an idea. The steel used for a nail should be softer than the cam, so I'm thinking that would wear before the cam. If anyone has tried that, let me know. Worst case, I'll try it and pull it out after some run time to inspect.
 
#23 ·
There is a reason the plungers were made of soft materal. When 2 parts rub on each other there is always some wear. Which would you rather have wear a cheap plunger or the camshaft. Which is cheaper and easier to replace. I always see people say you can use a drill bit for replacement but I suspect the cam doesn't last long. The brass plunger should wear much longer than yours seems to have. Do some searching and you might be able to find the original points and plunger from Tecumseh. The part number was 32011A for the set. When you bought this older tractor you should have known it would be more maintance heavy. In 1967 my dads Chevys required much more work than todays cars do. He was a rural mail carrier. His route was 108 miles a day, 6 days a week on back country farm roads. He had his car checked over every month to make sure all was working right. Roger
 
#25 ·
I have a lead on a material from work. It's on a heater hose shut off on a yard truck. It's a type of plastic. Given its application, it should handle heat. I'll soak it in oil to see how it reacts.
 
#26 ·
It is probably Delrin plastic which is I believe was basically what the original push rod was made of. Tecumseh must have known the rod wore as everytime you bought a set of points from Tecumseh they gave you a new push rod to put in. For what its worth I put one of David Kirks points savers in my 214 Kohler. 8 years later it wouldn't start and the reason was not the Kirk ignition but the aluminum push rod had worn enough that the points didn't open. The points still looked new and are still in the engine today. Roger
 
#27 ·
It might be. Looks just like it. I just gotta tell the guys in the shop to save me those valves when they replace them!!!
 
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