317 phase 2: engine rebuild
Page 1 of 5 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 47

Thread: 317 phase 2: engine rebuild

  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Display Name: Sam Myers
    Mudrig150's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Posts
    324
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 20 Times in 18 Posts

    317 phase 2: engine rebuild

    We went over the weekend to pick up the parts haul from the same guy I bought my 317 from.


    100$ for a mint 140 seat, really nice 212 hood with 3 intact mounts and one that's pulled the bolts out but is still in one piece, one single awful side panel from my 317, a motor, what's left of my brother's 300 minus the engine, a steering wheel for his patio 140, a transmission speed control handle, and a headlight lens.


    My brother's 300 is for parts, so I stole the steering wheel, rear plate, the intact brake pads and drum, and the choke cable, and my brother took the front lines, front plate, H2 valve and handles, and the front tires.
    We will be selling what's left, which isn't much, just the bad transmission and the steering components.


    So about the motor: it's a K321 from a 214. It's...seen better days. It has had a fuel pump replacement, which went on with no gasket, and of course leaks like a sieve. It must've ran without oil, the original owner decided to run it till it blew up, then rebuilt it. They added an insert to fix the excessive tolerance on the crank, replaced the whole piston, and honed it.
    EVERYTHING THEY DID IS WRONG.



    The insert was added onto the heavily scored crank, which of course was grabbed by the ridges and it began spinning the insert.


    They honed it incorrectly by shoving the hone in and not moving it at all while holding the button on the drill, so the crosshatching is horizontal.


    The motor, to no one's surprise, threw another rod after just about 4 or 5 hours of running.


    Luckily for me, it threw both rods into the oil pan, which ruined the pan and required RTV, Silicone, and a pan gasket to seal after the first thrown rod.


    Good thing we have a 140 crank and piston I can use to replace the damaged ones, so I guess I'll rehone the cylinder and reuse the new piston head from the 214 motor and the rod and crank from the 140 motor.
    1982 John deere 317, powered by Kohler Magnum 18
    1969 John deere 140 "One eyed Larry", powered by K241, H2 hydraulics
    1963 Burns B-60, Serial 1328

  2. Remove Advertisements
    WFMachines.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. #2
    Senior Member
    Display Name: Sam Myers
    Mudrig150's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Posts
    324
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 20 Times in 18 Posts
    Here's some pics.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    1982 John deere 317, powered by Kohler Magnum 18
    1969 John deere 140 "One eyed Larry", powered by K241, H2 hydraulics
    1963 Burns B-60, Serial 1328

  4. #3
    Senior Member
    Display Name: Matthew Yoder

    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Posts
    175
    Thanks
    14
    Thanked 40 Times in 35 Posts
    That poor motor. Sheesh.

    Looks like a fun project. I just tore down an engine Saturday that had a rod that looked just like that. It was just running along fine and made a pfft sound and was dead. No big clanks or anything, just running along and pfft. Like the rod just fell to pieces. The only clue was I recall a weird smell (burning oil) like a sewing machine right before she let loose.

  5. Remove Advertisements
    WFMachines.com
    Advertisements
     

  6. #4
    Senior Member
    Display Name: Sam Myers
    Mudrig150's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Posts
    324
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 20 Times in 18 Posts
    This engine is a trooper. It survived not one, but TWO broken rods with minimal damage. The only casualty is the pan, which is horribly bent and required RTV, silicone, and a gasket to seal.

    Plan is to bore .10 over and get a new piston head.
    1982 John deere 317, powered by Kohler Magnum 18
    1969 John deere 140 "One eyed Larry", powered by K241, H2 hydraulics
    1963 Burns B-60, Serial 1328

  7. #5
    Senior Member
    Display Name: Sam Myers
    Mudrig150's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Posts
    324
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 20 Times in 18 Posts
    If you think the K321 is bad, just look at part 1 of the rebuild and you'll see the famous Wrath of Rod: Total engine annihilation and the obilterated KT17.

    https://www.wfmachines.com/forums/sh...ally-came-home!
    1982 John deere 317, powered by Kohler Magnum 18
    1969 John deere 140 "One eyed Larry", powered by K241, H2 hydraulics
    1963 Burns B-60, Serial 1328

  8. #6
    Member
    Display Name: Rodney Edington

    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Leavenworth Ks
    Posts
    56
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 16 Times in 13 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by Mudrig150 View Post
    Plan is to bore .10 over and get a new piston head.
    I just had 3 K321 and a K341 bored and all 4 went .020" over. One looked very good till I measured the bore and had over .008" of taper. Good luck with your rebuild.
    I've alway used Kohler parts for rebuilds, but on these, I'm going to try "I save tractor" parts. The machine shop I use has had very good luck with them and recommended them.
    Rodney


    '68 140 H1 My daily mowing tractor
    '71 120 Will live with a Haban 48" sickle bar on it when I get it finished restoring.
    '72 140 H3 Waiting for restoration
    '73 140 H1 Lives with a 33 tiler with both extension on it
    '74 140 H3 Lives with a 4 way front blade and home built rear blade.
    '81 314 Engine need rebuilt.
    '88 332 Wife's tractor for pulling her #80 around.
    '95 455 Will get a loader on it soon.

  9. #7
    Senior Member
    Display Name: Sam Myers
    Mudrig150's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Posts
    324
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 20 Times in 18 Posts
    So, one long term thing I want to do with the 317 is put 200 series side panels on it. I'm thinking of taking the ones with the slats in the sides and pounding the slats closed and making the side panel solid. I'm using 200 series specifically because they're easiest to find. anyone ever done this?
    1982 John deere 317, powered by Kohler Magnum 18
    1969 John deere 140 "One eyed Larry", powered by K241, H2 hydraulics
    1963 Burns B-60, Serial 1328

  10. #8
    Senior Member
    Display Name: Sam Myers
    Mudrig150's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Posts
    324
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 20 Times in 18 Posts
    So I spent 6 whole hours yesterday and still wasn't able to get the flywheel off. I've been at this for almost a week at this point. I'm getting tired of this. My whole weight on a pry bar on the flywheel and still won't pop. It's like the freaking hulk pounded the flywheel on with a sledgehammer.

    Anyway, I decided that since the flywheel is being an annoying son of a heck I'd just take the rest of the motor apart.
    Oh.
    My.
    God.
    The list of stuff they did wrong keeps piling up. Here's the updated version.

    • Didn't mic crank when adding insert
    • Honed it sort of correctly (They roughed it up but not well)
    • Fuel pump screws hand tightened (didn't use a screw driver or anything)
    • No gasket on fuel pump
    • No gasket, seal, gaskets, or sponge in breather
    • incorrect baffle in breather
    • gaskets in breather replaced with way too much silicone
    • Rod and cap in backwards
    • Coil shroud on sideways
    • Muffler chopped open and rewelded
    • Baffle and muffler shield horribly cracked and damaged
    • Condensor not bolted down
    • Pliers used on everything

    Yikes.

    So, the bore is roughed up, but the crosshatching is horizontal, not diagonal. Would I still be able to use the bore and have the rings seat?
    1982 John deere 317, powered by Kohler Magnum 18
    1969 John deere 140 "One eyed Larry", powered by K241, H2 hydraulics
    1963 Burns B-60, Serial 1328

  11. #9
    Senior Member
    Display Name: RussK
    bloodrunsgreen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Mid-Michigan
    Posts
    1,218
    Thanks
    21
    Thanked 154 Times in 143 Posts
    Question is do you want to have to do it again or even replace the engine? I look at it like this: I want to do the least amount of work in the long term and keep my money also, so since I was a "brat", Dad taught it me to do it right the first time so you don't have to do it again. So I would do the measuring, honed if that is all it truly needs or get it bored/honed if it calls for it (measurements).

  12. #10
    Senior Member
    Display Name: Sam Myers
    Mudrig150's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Posts
    324
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 20 Times in 18 Posts
    Wish I knew where my brother's caliper set was, but apparently they disappeared to the nether realm along with the driveshaft adapter key and flywheel puller.
    1982 John deere 317, powered by Kohler Magnum 18
    1969 John deere 140 "One eyed Larry", powered by K241, H2 hydraulics
    1963 Burns B-60, Serial 1328

Page 1 of 5 123 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •