425 quits running when its hot out outside. - Page 2
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Thread: 425 quits running when its hot out outside.

  1. #11
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    Display Name: Jay Smith

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    My 425 seem to be doing something similar. Today, after about an hour mowing, and then heading back to the shed, it abruptly quit. No sputtering, no warning, just quit. Trying to restart did not produce even a pop. I could hear the fuel pump running every time I tried to restart. After about 5 minutes of trying to restart, I started to get a pop or two. After a couple more minutes, more consistent popping. Then after a few more minutes of trying to restart, it popped and sputtered, and then began running again, as though nothing had happened. This is the third time this has happened. And curiously, the tractor always has died in the same spot in my back yard on the way to the shed! Maybe my back yard is haunted? I suppose something must be overheating, but I can't imagine what. Does anyone have any ideas? Or suggestions as to how to troubleshoot?
    1998 425 w/ 3 pt, pto, 54" deck, MC 519 and Powerflo. My grasscutter and leaf picker-upper in the fall.
    1985 318 - sold !
    1971 140 w/ 46" deck - sold !
    A Farmall Cub, just for fun (way underpowered for most chores)
    Kubota 2670 diesel for heavy duty chores
    Last but not least - a lovely 1996 Buick Roadmaster cream puff with ~ 96K miles and no rust or rot.

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  3. #12
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    Display Name: Nate
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    Park it in a different shed... or move But seriously, check all connections and circuit breakers. Then start with ignition related items. Heat will cause resistance. I’ve seen wires warm up and the insulation gets soft allowing the break in the strands to separate. When it cools it retracts and allows contact. GM HEI ignition modules would do the same, also. Could be a circuit breaker getting weak and a bounce in that spot of your yard could be enough to trip it.

    The wife had a Tracker that would shut off every time we pulled out of one of the exits at our local Home Depot. I just stopped going out that exit. Never found the problem, and sold the car two years later with no other instances of that occurring.
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  4. #13
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    Display Name: Mike
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    Quote Originally Posted by rustyknuckles View Post
    My 425 seem to be doing something similar. Today, after about an hour mowing, and then heading back to the shed, it abruptly quit. No sputtering, no warning, just quit. Trying to restart did not produce even a pop. I could hear the fuel pump running every time I tried to restart. After about 5 minutes of trying to restart, I started to get a pop or two. After a couple more minutes, more consistent popping. Then after a few more minutes of trying to restart, it popped and sputtered, and then began running again, as though nothing had happened. This is the third time this has happened. And curiously, the tractor always has died in the same spot in my back yard on the way to the shed! Maybe my back yard is haunted? I suppose something must be overheating, but I can't imagine what. Does anyone have any ideas? Or suggestions as to how to troubleshoot?
    The issue we had is it quit just like yours, but there was not a pop as you mention. cranking produced nothing. Only after sitting for a couple of hours would it start right up. You say you can hear the pump running, can you see fuel in the in-line filter? Take the fuel line off the carb and aim it away from you or into an empty container. Turn on the key and see if any fuel comes out with the pump running. If no fuel then the issue is from the hose back toward the pump. If you have fuel, it is from the hose connection forward to the engine / carb / ignition. The way our 425 was acting I was 90% convinced it was the fuel shutoff solenoid on the carb, but diagnostic testing proved it was in fact the pump. The Deere technical manual has a good troubleshooting section just make sure your on the correct engine and serial number. Still cant see a reason why this machine goes through OEM fuel pumps so often.

  5. #14
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    Display Name: RussK
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    Fuel pumps are cooled by the fuel that goes thru them, or if pump in tank, by the fuel that surrounds them. I would gather a plugging up of the fuel pickup or a collapsing fuel line between tank and pump. Causing a burnt out of the pump.

  6. #15
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    Display Name: Jay Smith

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    Well, I decided to replace the time delay module, since they are fairly cheap. The new one showed up today, and when I went to replace it - WTF?? - nothing on the tractor resembled the stubby cylinder that I have seen described many times as the TDM. Are there two styles ? Do some 425s not have a TDM ? Any advice appreciated. Thanks.
    1998 425 w/ 3 pt, pto, 54" deck, MC 519 and Powerflo. My grasscutter and leaf picker-upper in the fall.
    1985 318 - sold !
    1971 140 w/ 46" deck - sold !
    A Farmall Cub, just for fun (way underpowered for most chores)
    Kubota 2670 diesel for heavy duty chores
    Last but not least - a lovely 1996 Buick Roadmaster cream puff with ~ 96K miles and no rust or rot.

  7. #16
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    Display Name: Randy VB

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    The original is square and is mounted on the left rear corner of the engine, in the mass of wires above the starter nose.

  8. #17
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    Display Name: Helderberg

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    The ignition module is square and mounted on the motor and is not cheap. Your time delay module should be as you described a cylinder shape around 3/4" diameter little over an inch long less than $30. They all came with them as far as I know but they can be eliminated. The only purpose it serves is to keep the engine from shutting down if you hit a bump and come off the seat for a split second and trigger the safety switch. It will be tied into the wiring going to the ignition module, the power from the ignition passes through it before it goes to the ignition. You should be able to follow the positive lead from the ignition switch to the time delay module. Hope this helps.

  9. #18
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    Display Name: Wayne Stubbe

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    Maybe try to install an electric fuel pump. Time delay module would also be my suggestion being it starts after setting awhile. Good luck!

  10. #19
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    I don't own a 425 myself, but I've heard of situations on the 425/445 where the fuel lines can deteriorate over the course of a bunch of years and lose their rigidity. It might be possible that when it's cold, the lines are stiffer and stay open, but when things get good and heat soaked under there, the lines become soft and collapse under the suction from the fuel pump. That could also cause the fuel pump to burn out prematurely too since it's not getting the fuel it needs to stay cool/lubricated. If you can prove it's a fuel issue (give it a little squirt of ether/starting fluid when it dies), that might be something to check.

  11. #20
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    Display Name: Pete Bengel

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    Had a few problems with those symptoms and different fixes. My personal 425 was dropping a cylinder when hot, sometimes quitting altogether. Ended up being the "ignitor" on mine... square module screwed to the side of your left hand engine mount plate. Expensive little cusses. I've also replaced countless time delay modules on many many friends/familys/customers 425's. They're cheap and every Deere dealer under the sun has a box full of them because they commonly fail. Other potential things to check... valves too tight? Also had a Deere 345 doing the same thing once and ended up replacing the carb. Turns out it was warping from the heat of the engine and the float would stick shut tighter'n hell until it cooled down and would allow the float bowl to fill again. Thinking my friend might have the same problem with his 425 right now as he's exhausted all of the typical culprits and hasn't fixed the problem yet.

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