You fed it too well, good luck.
You fed it too well, good luck.
It's giving you the old : "Hint, Hint, Hint" attention wanted, kind of like the significant other do! Remember this are not just pieces of equipment, they tend to be a relationship!
Yeah, I've been though a few Deere break-ups. They're never easy. And this one is being stubborn. Probably jealous of the 318 that gets to stay, LOL.
SUCCESS!!!!!! Well, partial success anyway. I got around to testing the spare ignition module today, using Chucks instructions this time, and it reads correctly. 12.48V to 1.26V to 12.48V to 1.25V and back to 12.46V's.
See, you got to give the old girl some loving and use proper proven techniques. LOL
Well its all back together, and it ran for about 3 minutes then died.
Something wonky is going on. It started right up, then died after a few minutes. It turned over, but wouldn't start back up. During this, I noticed the seat switch was unplugged. But it ran without it jumped or plugged in! What the heck? So I put jumper wire in it, still no start.
I tried 3 more times, about 5 seconds per crank.
Now it won't even turn over. The dash lights come on, external lights come on, the pto's engage, but no crank. Fuses are good. Starter and solenoid are new. Got power to the coil.
Checking the ignition switch next.
Section 240-20-11 says if voltage is present at the purple and purple/black wires with the key on, to replace the switch. I got voltage.
OK, so the ignition switch out and it flukes out OK. I did discover that the wires in the plug going to the switch are reversed at the S1-S2 terminals, (or the diagram is backwards) but that should not matter as those contacts close in "start" so it doesn't matter which side of the NO contact they go to.
I've checked continuity and voltages at the switch, all seems to be correct. Circuit breaker is brand new today.
Whats messed up, is I get continuity on the purple wire to the solenoid relay from the switch, but no voltage on that wire in the "start" position. When I hit the "start" position, I should see 12V at the end of that purple wire where it plugs into the solenoid relay. Theres no voltage, so the starter never gets the signal to run.
And I gotta say, some of the stuff in these manuals is confusing as heck. The electrical check-out procedures are not 100% accurate in their descriptions. I have a single red wire going to the B terminal of the switch, but in the check-out stuff, it says 2 red wires there, and the diagram only shows one. And how it says if you have voltage at the purple and purple/black terminal, to replace the switch. But yet the switch checks out A-OK on the bench according to another part of the tech manual, it gets continuity across the correct terminals in the 3 positions.
I've even tried swapping out a back-up TDCM. Nope, no change.
This is a simple electrical system, and its driving me nuts. I hate to do it, but I guess I'm gonna have to toss a $25 switch into it.
Ok, is the switch got a bunch of single connectors to each terminal by chance? If so, then the harness has been hacked and pieced back together, because normally IIRC there is a single GM style 56 connector on the switch. See attached pic
Last edited by bloodrunsgreen; 11-14-2019 at 11:51 PM.
Glad to hear the exchange of the ignition module under the stator and flywheel now has the engine able to run...we just need to address the present rash of intermittent symptoms you described above.
The TDCM is not involved at all in engine cranking, just in ignition spark being enabled if safety conditions are fulfilled -- so it can never be a suspect in your symptom of the starter not getting triggered by the start terminals on the key switch properly providing voltage and current to the solenoid.
One thing to check is simple to overlook, but since you have had this engine out multiple times recently I will mention it anyway. Be sure the engine ground is properly attached and thet the connection there is clean and tight. Also check the frame ground and the ground terminal of the battery itself. Since you are having intermittent issues which could be from resistance at the battery terminals causing high currents (such as the load from the starter) not being supported, be sure to clean the terminals and battery posts very carefully by scraping with a knife (the wire brush terminal tools may not cut through the lead oxide layer.) Lead oxide is transparent and difficult to notice, but it makes a good enough insulator to interfere with high current flows. Such a connection may give regular voltage indications with a meter, but still fail to pass high currents.
Aslo, the TM1590 schematic drawings are of a particular production configuration, and at several places the variations from other year models are covered by just notes to the drawings, or in some cases by dashed lines and/or drawing inserts. This does make reading these drawings a bit tedious so look for instances such as these. And, as Russ points out, there is always opportunity for a prior owner to hack the wiring to make it deviate from the factory drawings over the 30 odd years since it left the Deere factory.
When you replaced the circuit breaker, sis it have the old style 'bullet' press on connections? These can be very unreliable, and many members here have opted to replace them with ring connectors firmly nutted into place on the circuit breaker's threaded studs.
If the key switch is the original that came with the tractor then yes you should replace it since it will enhance reliability even if it is not the direct cause of the present woes.
Good luck and keep letting us know what you are finding...this will be resolved and you will be once again enjoying operating your tractor.