1983 JD 318 Cleanup ... Southwest Wisconsin - Page 2
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Thread: 1983 JD 318 Cleanup ... Southwest Wisconsin

  1. #11
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    Display Name: Kelvin Gebhard
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    Axle seal for right side ordered and should be able to pick up tomorrow.

    Work has slowed on the 318 as I am back to work on my building at rural property. I reinstalled the hood and engine shields and parked it back in the corner.

    I will try to do some night work on it when I come in the country so I can progress with the project. Some minor work that can be completed and I have the parts for are to:
    • paint the left front wheel
    • replace tie rod ball joints
    • replace the the breather tube and filter
    • there is linty material showing in left spark plug opening. Means I need to remove and clean under tins.
    • Right side quick coupler still leaking oil. Will replace o-ring but I do not have much luck with this fixing leaks. Will probably end up replacing coupler
    • Far left coupler difficult to operate; will probably replace that one also.
    • While couplers are out I need to finish painting front of frame.

    When these are all finished I will sand and paint engine shields, hood, and hood supports to finish up front of tractor.

    Pictures will be a chore for awhile. Bear with me. Nikon CoolPix 775 given to Laurie and I 15 yrs ago bit the big one. Dust cap fell off a coupe yrs ago and recently the On/Off dial fell off. This was also the shutter button. Still worked in this condition for awhile. Now dead in the water. I am trying to learn how to use CoolPix S6100 we bought to replace the old camera. That was 7-8 years ago. Going to take some time to become proficient with this new tool.

    Gabby
    Currently in my garages/sheds: 1967 JD112 RF ... 1972 JD 112 SF ... 1973 140 H3 ... 1977 JD 300 ... 1979 JD 216
    1979 JD 314 ... 1979 JD 317K ... 1986 JD 318 ... 2004 JD X485 ... 2011 JD TX Gator ... 2012 JD X720 ... 19XX Zennoh 7001B
    2003 HD Heritage Softail

    Deerely Departed : 1965 JD 110 ... 1967 JD 110 ... 1978 JD 316K ... 1987 JD 175 ... 1987 JD 185 ... 1987 JD 332 w/ 44 loader
    1990 JD 318 ... 2007 JD X300 ... 2015 Z930M ZTR ... 19XX MF 7 ... 1970 Harley FLH ... 1979 Harley Superglide

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  3. #12
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    Display Name: Kelvin Gebhard
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    No heat in new shed so spent the day doing more cleanup on the 318. I pulled the hydraulic parts bin down off storage rack. I two H3 control valve/lever setups. One is from a 140. The levers will not work on a 318 ... mounts are different. The other set appears as though it should fit a 318: Levers have same mount as H2 setup. It will be awhile before I will be working in that part of the tractor.

    1. Cleaned up and painted the left rim. Both front rims are now completed.
    2. Installed new ball joints on the tierod
    3. Tightened the axle-to-frame adjusters about 1/2 turn on each side. Not a lot of play in axle pivot bushing. Going to leave it be for now.
    4. Front wheels seem to have excessive amount of lateral movement on the axles (estimate 1/8"). Closed frame tractors used spring washer M63239 ($14.43/washer). Thinking about adding those to take up some of the lateral movement.
    5. Did some more engine cleanup. Removed the tins over the heads and cleaned up fins. Engine is covered with oil but is not leaking. Unsure if oil is breather residue. I ordered new breather gasket that seals breather to block. Will install the new gasket , breather tube, and filter tomorrow then put covers/tins back on the engine and proceed with clean up/painting. I will probably power wash the engine next spring. I need to put hours on the tractor to see if it is going to use oil and need rebuild. If so engine will get complete clean up at that time.

    Question

    1. Would like to hear from someone who has replaced front axle bushings to tighten fit of spindle to bushing. Bushings are still available from Deere but not spindles. What other alternatives do I have.

    Will get you some more photos tomorrow.
    Last edited by gabby_in_wis; 01-09-2020 at 02:32 AM.
    Currently in my garages/sheds: 1967 JD112 RF ... 1972 JD 112 SF ... 1973 140 H3 ... 1977 JD 300 ... 1979 JD 216
    1979 JD 314 ... 1979 JD 317K ... 1986 JD 318 ... 2004 JD X485 ... 2011 JD TX Gator ... 2012 JD X720 ... 19XX Zennoh 7001B
    2003 HD Heritage Softail

    Deerely Departed : 1965 JD 110 ... 1967 JD 110 ... 1978 JD 316K ... 1987 JD 175 ... 1987 JD 185 ... 1987 JD 332 w/ 44 loader
    1990 JD 318 ... 2007 JD X300 ... 2015 Z930M ZTR ... 19XX MF 7 ... 1970 Harley FLH ... 1979 Harley Superglide

  4. #13
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    Display Name: Dan
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    gabby, Your garage heat set up looks just like mine, made me LOL.

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    Display Name: Chuck Van Dusen
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    Gabby,

    If your 318 is early enough to have the 1.000 inch spindles, you might look for some later metric spindles if the kingpin wear is not tolerable in what you have now. I recall threads on this site that spoke to both bushing/spindle swaps and to complete front axle transplants. Of course, you would need the later metric hubs/wheels in front as well...so this would be a rather expensive and parts intensive substitution -- but at least it is an alternative to any "unobtainium" parts from the older models.

    Chuck

  7. #15
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    Front wheels seem to have excessive amount of lateral movement on the axles (estimate 1/8"). Closed frame tractors used spring washer M63239 ($14.43/washer). Thinking about adding those to take up some of the lateral movement.
    Would worn bearings cause some of this lateral movement?
    "Everybody is a genius.
    But if you judge a fish by it's ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing it is stupid."
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  8. #16
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    I would think worn bearings would cause axial looseness but not lateral. I can shim them to reduce some of the lateral movement. Just wonder if anyone else saw this issue and what their solution was.

    Doug, I will also pull the right spindle and mic the bushing area on the spindle to see if that could be a fix. Problem I see with this solution is the part of the spindle not in bushing would be oversize and not allow clearance on a 25mm bushing. All I can do is mic the parts and see what the looseness is. Or just allow it to be loose.

    Thanks .... Gabby
    Currently in my garages/sheds: 1967 JD112 RF ... 1972 JD 112 SF ... 1973 140 H3 ... 1977 JD 300 ... 1979 JD 216
    1979 JD 314 ... 1979 JD 317K ... 1986 JD 318 ... 2004 JD X485 ... 2011 JD TX Gator ... 2012 JD X720 ... 19XX Zennoh 7001B
    2003 HD Heritage Softail

    Deerely Departed : 1965 JD 110 ... 1967 JD 110 ... 1978 JD 316K ... 1987 JD 175 ... 1987 JD 185 ... 1987 JD 332 w/ 44 loader
    1990 JD 318 ... 2007 JD X300 ... 2015 Z930M ZTR ... 19XX MF 7 ... 1970 Harley FLH ... 1979 Harley Superglide

  9. #17
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    Display Name: Tom Ingels

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    Gabby, looking back, you mentioned this 318 is a 1983 model, so the original spindles would be of the 1.000" era. (s/n 222001-372595) The bushing inside dia. listed in JD Parts is 1.005". Do you have mics or calipers to measure the spindles for wear at the bushing contact area? You may find most of the wear is in the bushing and the spindle wear to be minimal. I don't know the factory spec. for the spindle, but could hazard a guess of .9995-1.000". So a new bushing and spindle clearance would be almost .005", not counting the press fit reduction. Would seem reasonable for a greasable shaft.
    The metric bushings are .985" I.D. O.D., flange, and O.A.L. are nearly the same as the 1.000" bushing and would fit the axle. However, machining the spindles and reaming the bushings to fit might be an expensive alternative. Wear on the spindle and bushings would likely be uneven, i.e. elliptical (egg shaped), and presents problems. Sure you already know this as this isn't your first GT! lol

    Edit: I was still typing while you posted the answers to my questions, Gabby.

    tommyhawk
    Last edited by tommyhawk; 01-09-2020 at 12:21 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gabby_in_wis View Post
    This is what the front wheels looked like when I brought the tractor home.

    I clean these by breaking the bead on both sides so I can stuff newspaper between tire and rim.
    • Rims get sanded with coarse steel wool then with a finer grade.
    • They are then wiped down with paint cleaner.
    • First is a coat of primer ... then 2 coats of John Deere yellow.
    • I only use John Deere spray paint.
    A professional painter I worked with years ago taught me to use playing cards to paint rims with tires on them. No need to break the bead. Just wedge them one by one between the tire and rim all the way around and spray. You can pull them out when finished and reuse them too.
    73 110 39 deck
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    73 140 H3 48 deck
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  13. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by jlw53 View Post
    A professional painter I worked with years ago taught me to use playing cards to paint rims with tires on them. No need to break the bead. Just wedge them one by one between the tire and rim all the way around and spray. You can pull them out when finished and reuse them too.
    sounds like a pretty neat little trick. Do you pull them out right after spraying or do you wait for the paint to dry and harden?
    Running:
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  14. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by N2 Tractors View Post
    sounds like a pretty neat little trick. Do you pull them out right after spraying or do you wait for the paint to dry and harden?
    Can you use them to play cards after spraying them? Should would lend to some interest games.

    I would think before, so you don't peel the paint whether tacky or dry (might even leave some card residue on rim).

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