Modlel 49 ... Still restoring them in SW Wisconsin
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Thread: Modlel 49 ... Still restoring them in SW Wisconsin

  1. #1
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    Modlel 49 ... Still restoring them in SW Wisconsin

    I have restored a half dozen or so model 49's. Sold them all so trying again to restore a keeper.

    Purchased model 49 s/n G049J-422563M from member Aaron in southeast Michigan with intent to restore for use on my 140 H3 obtained in collection I purchased here in southwest Wisconsin. Tractor also needs to be refreshed. Until then it may see duty on my 314/317/318. Model 49 condition as purchased:
    • Shell
      • Shell has many dents from use on gravel drive. No attempts will be made to remove dents.
      • Bottom middle of shell is bowed downward and center of cutting edge is highly worn. Shell needs to be straightend and cutting edge replaced.
      • Top of shell has slight downward bow but need straightedge to detect this.
      • The shell is structurally solid with no rust through metal but does have some cracks that will need to be welded.
      • Both skid shoes are worn and need high carbon wear strips added.
      • Shell wear plate (M424814) is damaged and will need replacing

    • Auger
      • The auger is banged up but I can straighten the bent flights and reuse it.
      • As purchased the auger would not rotate. Remove chain guard and found area full of mice nests. Chain has not been lubed for ? years and a few pins are frozen and will not flex.
      • Cleaned area and chain is significantly worn.
      • There is minimal clicking noise in auger rotation with chain removed.
      • Sprockets are in decent shape but I plan to replace 40T sprocket with a 36T and install new chain.
      • Bearing retainer on RS of auger is not assembled correctly and bearing is damaged.
      • Intent is new bearings to handle increased auger rotational speed and add paddles to the auger. I always replace the bearings if I have auger removed.

    • Gearbox/drive pulley
      • There is no undesireable noise/movement in the gearbox or drive components.
      • Gearbox lube will be changed before reassembly.

    • The snow thrower had been refreshed (rattle can paint job) by a previous owner with much overspray. Repaint will correct most of overspray issues.
    • My goal is an economy refresh. No sandblasting or powder coating. Sand and undercoat metal parts. Rusty parts will be coated with a catalyst. Then a rattle can paint job. Trying to keep costs down as $800 restorations do not sell.

    Much chatter hear at the beginning but hopefully little during the restoration. Here on mostly photos with minor verbage. Post will probably become photo heavy.

    Disassembly photos ...
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Currently in my garages/sheds: 1967 JD112 RF ... 1972 JD 112 SF ... 1973 140 H3 ... 1977 JD 300 ... 1979 JD 216
    1979 JD 314 ... 1979 JD 317K ... 1986 JD 318 ... 2004 JD X485 ... 2011 JD TX Gator ... 2012 JD X720 ... 19XX Zennoh 7001B
    2003 HD Heritage Softail

    Deerely Departed : 1965 JD 110 ... 1967 JD 110 ... 1978 JD 316K ... 1987 JD 175 ... 1987 JD 185 ... 1987 JD 332 w/ 44 loader
    1990 JD 318 ... 2007 JD X300 ... 2015 Z930M ZTR ... 19XX MF 7 ... 1970 Harley FLH ... 1979 Harley Superglide

  2. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to gabby_in_wis For This Useful Post:

    jlw53 (01-31-2020),lt230s (01-30-2020)

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  4. #2
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    Display Name: Jeff
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    Following. I plan to do the same thing to my 37A blower this summer. Mine looks to be in about the same shape as yours.
    73 110 39 deck
    72 112 47 deck
    73 140 H3 48 deck
    37A Blower
    31 Tiller
    33 Tiller
    54 4 way Blade
    80 cart

    https://www.wfmachines.com/forums/sh...10-restoration

  5. #3
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    The rest of the story is I purchased another model 49 in original condition. This one will be for sale when I am finished. I am going to swap parts between the two like chain and sprockets. I want 36T chain so hopefully parts on second 49 are suitable replacements for this attachment. I will probably be back to work on this one Sunday before the super bowl.

    I have never restored a 37/37A but have 4 of them, a couple of 32's for 60/70/80 tractors and an old model 36 for RF 110/112. The 36 is in worst condition and should be restored first. Model 49's are a simple rebuild and 37/37A looks to be similar in design but I do not recall seeing many rebuild threads talking about adding auger paddles or different sprockets to speed up the drive ... Gabby
    Last edited by gabby_in_wis; 01-31-2020 at 10:08 AM.
    Currently in my garages/sheds: 1967 JD112 RF ... 1972 JD 112 SF ... 1973 140 H3 ... 1977 JD 300 ... 1979 JD 216
    1979 JD 314 ... 1979 JD 317K ... 1986 JD 318 ... 2004 JD X485 ... 2011 JD TX Gator ... 2012 JD X720 ... 19XX Zennoh 7001B
    2003 HD Heritage Softail

    Deerely Departed : 1965 JD 110 ... 1967 JD 110 ... 1978 JD 316K ... 1987 JD 175 ... 1987 JD 185 ... 1987 JD 332 w/ 44 loader
    1990 JD 318 ... 2007 JD X300 ... 2015 Z930M ZTR ... 19XX MF 7 ... 1970 Harley FLH ... 1979 Harley Superglide

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    They are very similar.
    I've seen a few threads were the sprocket was changed and the rubber added to the auger. I may do the auger mod but not sure I need the smaller sprocket. I need to use it more before I decide to do that or not.
    So far I just needed to replace the chain to get it working as it should.
    73 110 39 deck
    72 112 47 deck
    73 140 H3 48 deck
    37A Blower
    31 Tiller
    33 Tiller
    54 4 way Blade
    80 cart

    https://www.wfmachines.com/forums/sh...10-restoration

  8. #5
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    Cleaning my driveway in town I have found just the paddles is sufficient. I just want to see what increase auger speed does ... Gabby
    Currently in my garages/sheds: 1967 JD112 RF ... 1972 JD 112 SF ... 1973 140 H3 ... 1977 JD 300 ... 1979 JD 216
    1979 JD 314 ... 1979 JD 317K ... 1986 JD 318 ... 2004 JD X485 ... 2011 JD TX Gator ... 2012 JD X720 ... 19XX Zennoh 7001B
    2003 HD Heritage Softail

    Deerely Departed : 1965 JD 110 ... 1967 JD 110 ... 1978 JD 316K ... 1987 JD 175 ... 1987 JD 185 ... 1987 JD 332 w/ 44 loader
    1990 JD 318 ... 2007 JD X300 ... 2015 Z930M ZTR ... 19XX MF 7 ... 1970 Harley FLH ... 1979 Harley Superglide

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    Display Name: Bob Meyer

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    I've seen quite a few threads about speeding up augers and it doesn't make sense to me! Yes, you're probably going to throw the snow 5', maybe 10' further, but you're putting additional strain on the drive sprocket, the chain, the gearbox, and the engine! This additional strain equates to additional wear. A new sprocket & chain every 10 years or so isn't bad. Additional load on engine just means it may loose rpm...plus wear! Ground speed will keep rpm up. And then there's the gear box! Bearings...I believe 4 for a total of $60+/- isn't too bad, but gears can get pricey! And then there's accelerated wear on keys & keyways! No thank you, I'll use my stock 49! Bob
    '80 317 w/18hp B&S and divert valve for rear hydraulics, 3 pt hitch, 5' york rake
    '82 314 w/rear PTO for tiller
    33 tiller
    49 thrower
    54 4 way blade
    Mod 48 deck & Mod 462 TracVac

  10. #7
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    Display Name: Graham

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    Yeah I'm with you, bob, my '49 throws even the wettest heaviest snow a good 15+ feet. Doesn't seem to need to go any faster.

    Was talking to a coworker who has the 'standard' chute- mine was replaced with a 'tall' chute (i think?) by a previous owner, either way he has rubber flaps too and says he still experiences clogging... mine you can't clog it even if you try. Even shooting pure slush/ice at the end of the driveway. I'm not sure if the tall chute is that big of a difference but perhaps it is. I think it would be safer to just run your engine a little bit faster (within reason) if you really feel like it needs to go faster.

  11. #8
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    I have decided on this rebuild that I will replace chain and sprockets with parts from the model 49 I bought from Rick. Three of the 4 bearings (rs auger, driveshaft, & idler sprocket) on this 49 are rough and need replacement so I am replacing all all four. I have not checked the gearbox bearings but normally find they a acceptable for continued use.

    As for speeding up the auger speed I am satisfied with std speed but just want to see what a 36T will do with the snow. 30T or 32T to me you are inviting trouble and will not increase speed that amount.

    Tomorrow I hope to have some more photos of completed work.

    Gabby
    Currently in my garages/sheds: 1967 JD112 RF ... 1972 JD 112 SF ... 1973 140 H3 ... 1977 JD 300 ... 1979 JD 216
    1979 JD 314 ... 1979 JD 317K ... 1986 JD 318 ... 2004 JD X485 ... 2011 JD TX Gator ... 2012 JD X720 ... 19XX Zennoh 7001B
    2003 HD Heritage Softail

    Deerely Departed : 1965 JD 110 ... 1967 JD 110 ... 1978 JD 316K ... 1987 JD 175 ... 1987 JD 185 ... 1987 JD 332 w/ 44 loader
    1990 JD 318 ... 2007 JD X300 ... 2015 Z930M ZTR ... 19XX MF 7 ... 1970 Harley FLH ... 1979 Harley Superglide

  12. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by rwmeyer View Post
    I've seen quite a few threads about speeding up augers and it doesn't make sense to me! Yes, you're probably going to throw the snow 5', maybe 10' further, but you're putting additional strain on the drive sprocket, the chain, the gearbox, and the engine! This additional strain equates to additional wear. A new sprocket & chain every 10 years or so isn't bad. Additional load on engine just means it may loose rpm...plus wear! Ground speed will keep rpm up. And then there's the gear box! Bearings...I believe 4 for a total of $60+/- isn't too bad, but gears can get pricey! And then there's accelerated wear on keys & keyways! No thank you, I'll use my stock 49! Bob
    Changing the sprocket does not add extra strain on the engine, or the gearbox. The sprocket is the final piece in the drive line. Adding extra speed on the auger does not speed up the gearbox rpm, or add extra engine wear.

  13. #10
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    Display Name: Bob Meyer

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    Stoshu, It's all a matter of gear ration. Just using arbitrary numbers here:

    If you have a shaft with a given load...like an auger with always the same amount of snow... and it takes 10 hp to turn this shaft with a 4:1 ration. Let's say 10 teeth on the drive sprocket and 40 teeth on the driven. Now change the driven to 20 teeth, that's a 2:1 ratio and it will now take 20 hp on the drive gear to turn the shaft. This additional hp needs to come from the engine and transmitted through the gearbox, shaft and keys. Bob
    '80 317 w/18hp B&S and divert valve for rear hydraulics, 3 pt hitch, 5' york rake
    '82 314 w/rear PTO for tiller
    33 tiller
    49 thrower
    54 4 way blade
    Mod 48 deck & Mod 462 TracVac

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