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Thread: 1976 John Deere 300

  1. #21
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    Display Name: Andy

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    I thought I had no down pressure because the sticker in between my feet shows (up and down on the left) and (up and flout on the right) so that is why thought I did not have down pressure.

    I would like a H2 valve but cost is my biggest problem and I already have the second H1 valve!
    Andrew

    1973 110,
    1972 110,
    1973 110,

    1969 112,

    1988 420,
    1981 400,

    1976 300,

    1987 160,

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  3. #22
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    Display Name: Bob Meyer

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    So you have an H2 already...2 levers?
    The lever with float has FOUR positions: full rear, neutral(center), partially forward, and full forward. Full forward is float. When in float, lever should stay "locked" in the forward position. Pushing it slightly forward your implement will have down pressure as long as you hold the lever. When you release the lever, it should come back to neutral(center).

    Take a look where you're gonna mount the second valve. It's gonna be TIGHT! I'm not saying it can't be done, just difficult and VERY limited space.

    Keep us posted and we'll get you going. Bob
    '80 317 w/18hp B&S and divert valve for rear hydraulics, 3 pt hitch, 5' york rake
    '82 314 w/rear PTO for tiller
    33 tiller
    49 thrower
    54 4 way blade
    Mod 48 deck & Mod 462 TracVac

  4. #23
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    Display Name: Andy

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    That makes since with the four positions!!! yes I have a H2.dfgqre.jpg That is ruffly where I plan too put it!! that is my parts tractor.
    Andrew

    1973 110,
    1972 110,
    1973 110,

    1969 112,

    1988 420,
    1981 400,

    1976 300,

    1987 160,

  5. #24
    Senior Member
    Display Name: Bob Meyer

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    You don't need to add another valve. Two lines go forward to your front outlets and two lines go down and attach to the rockshaft cylinder. Put tee's in the ports for the rockshaft cylinder and attach rockshaft lines and two hoses for rear outlets. You'll need a plate on the rear to hold your couplers also.

    Are you familiar with working on hydraulic systems...fittings, sizes, etc ? I, or someone, can walk you through it if not. Bob
    '80 317 w/18hp B&S and divert valve for rear hydraulics, 3 pt hitch, 5' york rake
    '82 314 w/rear PTO for tiller
    33 tiller
    49 thrower
    54 4 way blade
    Mod 48 deck & Mod 462 TracVac

  6. #25
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    Display Name: Andy

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    okay I don't need the rear hydraulic remote I just think it would be cool too have more hydraulics!! I'm not familiar with working on hydraulic systems...fittings, sizes, etc. so I would like some ones help on that.
    there is a hydraulic store a bought 30 minutes form here (Hydraulics is all they do they have made custom hoes etc. for us before)
    Andrew

    1973 110,
    1972 110,
    1973 110,

    1969 112,

    1988 420,
    1981 400,

    1976 300,

    1987 160,

  7. #26
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    Display Name: Leonard VanCamp

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    Auxillary Hydraulics makes a kit for rear hydraulics, I put one on my 316K. I would suggest putting a lockout valve in the system if you do go that route. When I installed my kit I switched my hydraulics around to set them up how I wanted them to be. In the factory setup, the inner stick controls just the right front ports, on my 316, it controls the right front ports and the center rockshaft. In the factory setup, the outer stick controls the left front ports and center rockshaft. On my tractor it controls the left front ports and rear ports.

  8. #27
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    Display Name: Greg Olson
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    Do either of your 300's have a sleeve hitch?
    There is some good info here to look at. http://www.wfmfiles.com/?fbclid=IwAR2143zeNb5THRcjso4i3-wQfTOX1fMK0E2JZ5vXmigAOk5wSgiNmHgvrgM
    1980 317 with KT17 series 2/remote oil filter kit
    1979 317 with Onan P218G and diverter valve
    1968 112 repowered with 9HP vanguard

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  9. #28
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    Display Name: Andy

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    no I do not have a sleeve hitch or earthier of them.
    Andrew

    1973 110,
    1972 110,
    1973 110,

    1969 112,

    1988 420,
    1981 400,

    1976 300,

    1987 160,

  10. #29
    Senior Member
    Display Name: Andy

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    when I hit the brakes on my 300 it puts the hydro lever in neutral but then my tractor in reverse any ideas???

    I also want too make a front weight bar do any of you have one that I could see how too attach it?
    Andrew

    1973 110,
    1972 110,
    1973 110,

    1969 112,

    1988 420,
    1981 400,

    1976 300,

    1987 160,

  11. #30
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    Display Name: Bob Meyer

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    Andy, Answering your #25 post, I did NOT say your didn't need rear hydraulics, just that you don't need a second valve assembly. You already have all the valving your need, just a matter of connecting it.

    Also, I see 3 separate threads here: Installing rear hyd., brakes, and front weight bar.

    You'll need to supply a little more info for the rear hydraulics. Jake_vc brought up some good points about which lever controls what. You need to determine how you want yours set up. Look at your piping and see what lines go where as it's setup now. I'm thinking it'll be as Jake mentioned: inner lever to right front ports only, outer lever to rockshaft and left front ports.

    I'm thinking no matter which way you connect, you're going to need a tee. So, a little about hydraulic fittings! Your fittings are for 5/16" tubing or hose and are 37º JIC...as compared to NPT, o-ring boss (ORB) or a host of others. You'r going to need a tee with 2 male 37º JIC ends (referred to as -5 and 1/2"-20 thread) and a female 37º female swivel. To add to the confusion, the tee can be a run swivel or a branch swivel.
    Assuming pressure/flow is coming into the swivel portion of the fitting: In a run tee, flow comes in, and can go straight through or can go to one side (the branch). In a branch tee, pressure comes in the side (branch) and MUST then turn one way or the other. Space is going to be your determining factor. Hopefully, you can fit a fem swivel run tee where you need it, as this will place your connections in the best location.

    Google/search "hydraulic fittings" and look through the various types, especially tees. Pics will show the differences between male female, JIC, ORB, etc.

    OK, so determine what you have now and what you want when finished, We'll get you through it. Bob
    '80 317 w/18hp B&S and divert valve for rear hydraulics, 3 pt hitch, 5' york rake
    '82 314 w/rear PTO for tiller
    33 tiller
    49 thrower
    54 4 way blade
    Mod 48 deck & Mod 462 TracVac

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