318 wheel rims, issues with leaks - Page 2
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Thread: 318 wheel rims, issues with leaks

  1. #11
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    Display Name: Doug Hager
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    [QUOTE]I don't know why people are SO resistant to installing tubes! Bob/QUOTE]

    Bob, we are the old generation and tubes didn't require a second thought. It also cost us less than a new tire and was the economical repair. But now is the generation of the tubeless tires in most vehicles and it's increasing. Tubes on our slow speed tractors is fine.

    I have used silicone in one set of tires (and it worked fine till the tires rotted).
    I also have tubes in one of my tractors.
    "Everybody is a genius.
    But if you judge a fish by it's ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing it is stupid."
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  3. #12
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    Display Name: Mick

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    Slime is corrosive but it will last long enough to unload the tractor on some poor unsuspecting buyer, then the rusted out rims are his problem, I know i was a chump that got suckered on a Ariens with slime rotted rims, sand blasting and seal welding the rusted out rims was a nightmare, but i learned a good lesson about Slime. Tubes are the best fix, stay away from Slime.

  4. #13
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    Display Name: MassMark

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    I decided I should share the resolution to my issue. I took the tire back to the tire shop and asked for a tube. They could not find one with the stem in the right place. So I decided to get a new tire, which is what I did. The issue was solved and I am happy.

  5. #14
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    Display Name: Bob Meyer

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    Mark, Probably almost 20 years now, I had a leak in a front tire. After a LOT of looking around, I found a tire shop that would tube it. I had the tube and they charged me $10. A few months later, I had a slow leak in a rear tire! I looked around and found that Harbor Freight and Northern Tool both had mini-tire changers for around $30. HF was 15 miles from me so I picked one up. Since then, I've done 3 fronts, 2 rears, and 1 on my 80 cart.

    If you plan on keeping/using a lawn tractor, I highly recommend getting a mini-tire changer. Probably the nicest part about doing your own tire changes is that you can inspect your rims, wire brush, prime & paint. REALLY a great investment. Bob
    '80 317 w/18hp B&S and divert valve for rear hydraulics, 3 pt hitch, 5' york rake
    '82 314 w/rear PTO for tiller
    33 tiller
    49 thrower
    54 4 way blade
    Mod 48 deck & Mod 462 TracVac

  6. #15
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    Display Name: Mike Gault
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    Guess which one the PO had put slime in?
    Looked more like an alien growth when I took the tire off.


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  8. #16
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    Display Name: M. Drew
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    Thanks for the picture Mike. Slime works great, but it comes at a cost in the end. I have a friend who swears by clear caulk. Go with tubes.

    I put Slime in all 4 tires on my wife's truck with mag wheels. Over time the wheels would allow air to leak. GM Service Bulletin said to put gasket sealer over the entire inside of the rim. I swore I would sell it before it needed tires. I did. I felt a little sorry for the dealership that we traded it to. Then radiator on her newer SUV started to leak and I felt fine again.
    Mike

    Sometimes I'm only funny to myself.

  9. #17
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    Display Name: Jeff
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    I put slime in on of my 80 cart tires years ago before I knew better. It's on my list of things to fix now. Not looking forward to pulling that tire off.
    73 110 39 deck
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  10. #18
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    Display Name: Sam Myers
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    Tubes are great if you're like me, and you can never get a tire to stop popping off the bead. I managed to just barely get the front tire on my 317 to seat without a tube, then when I was dragging the front sideways to pull the back tire off the tire completely unseated and came off the bead on the inside. After 5 attempts to get it to stop unseating I gave up and threw a tube in. Tire is still not on the bead but at least now it can hold air.

    Putting slime or calcium in a tire is just about as bad as putting that radiator stop leak in a small engine. They should outlaw that stuff, with all the straight up lies and false claims.
    1982 John deere 317, powered by Kohler Magnum 18
    1969 John deere 140 "One eyed Larry", powered by K241, H2 hydraulics
    1963 Burns B-60, Serial 1328

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