JD 317 update & hydro Q's...
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Thread: JD 317 update & hydro Q's...

  1. #1
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    JD 317 update & hydro Q's...

    Got a chance to check the hydro linkage on my new-to-me/used JD 317 that I acquired recently. It has a nasty habit of accelerating on its own in F or R under any amount of throttle...especially if going downhill or backwards up over a slight rise...like onto the concrete slab on the front porch/slab of my small shop.
    Got the side panels off, battery and battery tray out and discovered after some poking around that all the front linkage is tight and that the dampener is smooth. I tightened the friction brake on the linkage a little, thinking maybe this was the root cause of the problem. Nope. Same behavior after this adjustment, although the shifter arm performed a little better...not as loose as before.
    Then I got the free-wheeling knob, parking brake knob and deck height knob/nuts/pieces off the fender pan and pulled the fender pan off. The connection of the shifter linkage rod and control/swash plate on the hydro itself seemed a little loose, so I cleaned it off and got the pin out that holds these two together. Seems too short. And the cotter pin that holds the two together seems to be in the wrong spot...it joins one half of the yoke to the control/swash plate, but the cotter pin goes in between the swash/control plate and the second arm of the yoke. I expected the pin to go through both arms of the yoke, with the control/swash plate in between and the cotter pin on the outside of a yoke arm. See pix below.
    The pin is JD part M46200 but the new online parts catalog doesn't list specs like dimensions (length/width/diameter, etc.) like the old catalog so I don't know if the pin shown below is correct. It is exactly 1" long and the cotter pin hole is about 5/8ths" in from the head.
    I found a used linkage on the auction site (see pix) that seems to indicate I may have the right pin after all..but what do I know? Anyone know the specs on this part...ie, length/diameter? It is the same size/diameter as the pin that connects the lift arm to the yoke on the adjustable deck lift strap (which is too long to work in the limited space around the hydro linkage).
    I put the shorter pin back in and took it for a spin around the yard. This time I noticed that the hydro sometimes slows way down and acts like the pump may be cavitating...it stutters/chatters unless you push the shift linkage further F or R. So maybe it just needs a fluid/filter change and maybe a good purge.
    Found this link online about purging a hydro tranny:
    http://husqvarna.custhelp.com/app/an...c-drive-system
    Anyone ever purged a JD hydro in this fashion? If you use another method, please explain with a simple 1-2-3 list of steps.
    Thanks in advance.
    Gotta say I really like this 317...it may find a spot in my permanent herd if I can resolve the hydro speed & chatter/stutter problem. Note, it appears to have enough fluid in the sight glass...but you know PO's...what kind of fluid and when was the filter changed last? Will probably pull the fender pan to change the filter, as that is much easier than pulling the belly pan/screen off (nice and clean)...no need for that. Thanks for any and all input.
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  3. #2
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    Display Name: Bob Meyer

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    Tmac, I read through the Husqvarna link you posted. I've never done it that way and probably never will. I say that only because what I've done works for me!

    I like to get my oil warmed up and moving before I change it, so I warm engine and drive around for 5-10 minutes until hydro starts to get warm. Then:
    1. Park on level surface, drain oil & remove filter.
    2. Clean filter mounting area, pre-fill filter about 1/3 full, oil gasket, and install filter.
    3. Fill hydro.
    4. Start & warm engine at approx 1/3 throttle. Open rockshaft lockout valve if equipped and move outer control lever until you hear engine change sound/labor somewhat. Move lever in opposite direction until engine changes sound. Repeat 3 or 4 times each direction.
    5. Drive tractor 30-50 feet, change direction and repeat 3 or 4 times.
    6. Park tractor, stop engine, wait 5 minutes, and check oil level.

    As long as you're doing this by removing your seat pan, check vent in site tube. The top end of your site gauge tube should have what looks like a fuel filter. This should have a small, maybe 1/16" hole, in the outer case. This is to vent your hydro as it warms & cools. Make sure hole is clear of any debris. If there's a lot of "stuff" inside, replace filter. An off the shelf fuel filter from auto parts store will work...AFTER DRILLING VENT HOLE !!

    Sorry, but can't help on pin length. Bob
    '80 317 w/18hp B&S and divert valve for rear hydraulics, 3 pt hitch, 5' york rake
    '82 314 w/rear PTO for tiller
    33 tiller
    49 thrower
    54 4 way blade
    Mod 48 deck & Mod 462 TracVac

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    Display Name: Tom
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    I had the same problem with my 420, I could move the linkage either forward or reverse just slightly and it would pick up speed. I messed with linkages, and dampener but found that the lever coming off the hydro was worn, egg shaped and the spring pin was no good either. I replaced both and the problem went away. I would say check that first, you may find yours is worn as well. With the fender pan off and the engine off, mover the drive lever forward and reverse. If you see any play you should replace them.
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  6. #4
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    5. Drive tractor 30-50 feet, change direction and repeat 3 or 4 times.
    Repeat only step five right? Move a distance, change direction for same distance 3-4 times?

    Yeah I read your posts about your 420...interesting. Luckily for me the early 317 hydro linkage is a bit different than the later 318 and 400-series linkage. Seems more robust, as it is engineered for the "slop" to occur up front, IMO. I don't have any slop in my linkage, front to back...that's why I'm puzzled by the random speed changes. Granted, you can correct quite easily...but who wants to mess with that? It's a work in progress though...gonna get everything needed for a hydro fluid/filter change tomorrow, drain the gas tank, pull the fender pan and do the job and evaluate the vent/tube and condition of the filter and fluid. Some of the hinky-ness in my JD 430 hydro went away after I did a full hydro service and put everything back to spec. The big question is whether I can service the 317 hydro without pulling the mower deck...that may be a challenge, but we'll see...it doesn't have a hydro drain plug, you have to disconnect one of the big metal lines to drain it...fun, fun, fun.

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    Display Name: Bob Meyer

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    Tmac, Move outer hyd lever 3 or 4 times each direction, and drive tractor fwd & rev 3 or 4 times. These operations move hyd oil through the system pushing any air ahead of the oil and ito the hydro where it will vent to the atmosphere.

    I drain my hydro oil by removing the fill pipe, much easier to access! You can also jack the front of the tractor to get another pint or so of oil out, or you can remove the site tube line and then the large nut on the hydro.

    It's gonna be a lot simpler & cleaner if you remove your mower deck. You will loose oil when you pull your filter. Not sure if there's enough room to put an oil catch can on top of deck.

    Keep us posted, Bob
    '80 317 w/18hp B&S and divert valve for rear hydraulics, 3 pt hitch, 5' york rake
    '82 314 w/rear PTO for tiller
    33 tiller
    49 thrower
    54 4 way blade
    Mod 48 deck & Mod 462 TracVac

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    Given that the deck looks like it has never been off, I will probably raise the rear end and pull both back wheels/tires off to have access to a drain point...good to know about the rear fill tube. Not too worried about losing a little fluid onto the back of the deck, there are worse things in life. Gonna fetch the filter and some hygard later today from the dealer...who tells me the clevis pin I have is the right one, at least according to the dimensions they can see/find in their parts info system. Thanks for the tips/steps on purging the system after doing a fluid/filter change. If the weather liars are right, I may be doing this chore in a T-shirt and bermuda shorts instead of heavy coveralls rated for mud work.

  9. #7
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    Got the fluid & filter changed today, and the vent line repaired, too. Turns out I do have the right size/length clevis pin after all...some time at the JD parts counter provided the answer. And it turns out there is plenty of room to do the fluid/filter change from underneath without removing the 48-inch deck. Started out by pulling the fender pan to clean the area around the filter. Also checked the hydro vent line and discovered it was kinked between the frame and the filter/vent, so it was not functioning as a vent at all. Shortened the hydro line to get the kink out and pulled the gas tank out of the way to get better access to the fill tube. Got the bottom main hydro line off the hydro, caught the fluid in a pan and then removed/replaced the old filter. Hooked the main line back up and rigged up a funnel with some rubber fuel line to make the refill easier...not much room between the top of the fill tube and the frame & sides on the early model 317's. It slurped up exactly five quarts of red-dyed, fresh Hygard low-vis. Cranked it over and let it run/pressurize, cycled the outside hydro lever (deck lift) to circulate the fluid and added a little more fluid to get the level right in the sight tube/glass. Put the fender pan back on, and went through Bob's purge process. It behaves better now, but I still have the acceleration/deceleration problem...just not as bad, or as much. So I must have some slop in the control arm/swash plate linkage at the hydro. Need to investigate how hard it is to pull the hydro out of the frame altogether to make inspection and repair easier. Anyone ever seen a thread on this forum or another that documents/describes how to pull the hydro off? Please share if you have...and thanks for all your help and input. Bob's yer uncle!

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    Tmac, I repowered my 317 about 3 years ago, and noticing rusty areas here & there, decided to clean & repaint everything. Being 3 years ago and my memory NOT what is should be, there may be a few items I'm missing here! But here goes:
    Drain hydro oil, remove seat pan, fuel tank, fan shroud & plate it attaches to, and hyd lines from hydro to control valve. Drive out pin holding drive shaft to hydro.
    Jack tractor and place on jack stands FORWARD of axle tubes...hydro slides out the rear of the frame.
    Remove tires, disconnect brake linkage & hydro control linkage.
    Place floor jack under hydro, remove 4 bolts holding hydro to frame, and slide hydro back through end of frame.
    Installation is opposite of removal process, BUT install pin in driveshaft yoke before tightening frame bolts.

    I'm still betting it's slop in the linkage and this can be best checked with the hydro inplace. Check each pivot and connection. Something often missed is the plate attached to the shaft coming out of the hydro. The hole in the shaft and/or the plate can get elongated and give you a few thousandths slop. A few here & there and you've not got .100". Any movement fwd or rev in your handle should result in your tractor moving, even 1/16"

    Best if luck, Bob
    '80 317 w/18hp B&S and divert valve for rear hydraulics, 3 pt hitch, 5' york rake
    '82 314 w/rear PTO for tiller
    33 tiller
    49 thrower
    54 4 way blade
    Mod 48 deck & Mod 462 TracVac

  11. #9
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    "Something often missed is the plate attached to the shaft coming out of the hydro. The hole in the shaft and/or the plate can get elongated and give you a few thousandths slop. A few here & there and you've not got .100". Any movement fwd or rev in your handle should result in your tractor moving, even 1/16"

    Yeah that's the next step, since this tractor doesn't fight me at every turn...like the 316 I just finished up. I'll pull the fender pan and gas tank again, and maybe the rear right tire and put it up jackstands so I can skootch up under there and have a look. Can't tell much from above as there is a cross piece in the way. I'll have to clean it up real good first, though. Don't like the taste of decades old dirt/debris/etc.
    My SM shows how to remove the arm from the control plate/swash plate...the arm that the rear dampener eye connects to. But it doesn't show me how the control/swash plate is fixed to the hydro shaft, or how to remove it. Guess it's self evident once you make eye contact?
    If not, let me know...doesn't look to be much room to work on that side of the hydro unless you pull the hydro completely.

  12. #10
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    Well, DOH! as Homer would say. Found some pix of a 317 repower/cleanup online with good pix and looks like I'll have the access I need to check the linkage after I remove the hydro fan shroud/guard. DOH!

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