New from Texas! JD 140. First time Deere owner - Page 3
Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 34

Thread: New from Texas! JD 140. First time Deere owner

  1. #21
    Senior Member
    Display Name: Bob Meyer

    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Athens, TN
    Posts
    1,614
    Thanks
    152
    Thanked 361 Times in 298 Posts
    The 3-pt hitch for the 140 and the 3xx series are identical, except for a 45º on one corner near the front. Not sure which one requires the notch, but it's for clearance of as bolt. I've got a 3-pt from a 140 and it fits my 314 & 317 without problems. I believe (??) some 140's did not have a cutout on the center of the fender deck, so a 3-pt could not be used. I also believe (??) that fender deck has a "sub" for a later part number with a cutout and a plate to cover the cutout if not wanted/used. Bob
    '80 317 w/18hp B&S and divert valve for rear hydraulics, 3 pt hitch, 5' york rake
    '82 314 w/rear PTO for tiller
    33 tiller
    49 thrower
    54 4 way blade
    Mod 48 deck & Mod 462 TracVac

  2. Remove Advertisements
    WFMachines.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. #22
    Senior Member
    Display Name: Sam Myers
    Mudrig150's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Posts
    326
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 20 Times in 18 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by rwmeyer View Post
    The 3-pt hitch for the 140 and the 3xx series are identical, except for a 45º on one corner near the front. Not sure which one requires the notch, but it's for clearance of as bolt. I've got a 3-pt from a 140 and it fits my 314 & 317 without problems. I believe (??) some 140's did not have a cutout on the center of the fender deck, so a 3-pt could not be used. I also believe (??) that fender deck has a "sub" for a later part number with a cutout and a plate to cover the cutout if not wanted/used. Bob
    My 69 H1 has a cutout for the 3 point.
    A 300 series 3 point requires the notch to fit a 140 and not hit the frame.
    A 140 3 point will fit a 300 series, but not vice versa.
    1982 John deere 317, powered by Kohler Magnum 18
    1969 John deere 140 "One eyed Larry", powered by K241, H2 hydraulics
    1963 Burns B-60, Serial 1328

  4. #23
    Junior Member
    Display Name: GhoSt

    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Posts
    14
    Thanks
    15
    Thanked 4 Times in 3 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by T-Mo View Post
    I moved this to the Hydrostatic drive section since it has ventured from just an introductory thread.
    Thank you T-Mo!

    Sorry it took a while to get back on here and respond. Between family, rain and sickness, its been a busy or not so busy week. (Guess it depends if your a half full or half empty type of person lol)

    Quote Originally Posted by Mudrig150 View Post
    Since nobody's pointed it out, that 3 point is factory, but it's from a 300 series, most likely the same one the fuel tank and fenders came from. It will not fit a 140, because the different frame design, the 140 frame comes back at an angle, and the 300 series frame cuts off at the bottom of the slope up. THAT is why the 3 point hits, the frame is longer. I also notice that I do believe the handles for the hydraulic lift are all pushed forward, like the links are too short. Plus you have a replacement engine there.
    Hey Mudrig. Could you point me out on the differences? I've looked at various pictures and I can't seem to really tell. This is what my parts catalog shows for the 140 (30001- )

    20200309_210324.jpg

    I guess one difference is that on the parts catalog the right side doesn't have a block welded to the right lift arm while my physical one does.

    I did get to tinker with the 140 a bit and moved the hydraulic cylinder bracket around which seemed to have put me close to where it should be. I think.

    Before

    20200307_114008.jpg

    After


    20200307_172245.jpg

    This was the result. I believe that if I were to straighten out the frame, the 3pt should clear it. Anybody know what the little piece of steel welded on top of the right is for? Might grind it off.

    Left

    20200307_172234.jpg

    20200307_172242.jpg

    Right

    20200307_172240.jpg
    20200307_172227.jpg

    On the other pictures, the lever where facing forward. Well, they faced any direction you put them in lol. But after taking them off, wire brushing the rust off, adding new bushings and re-greasing, they sit centered now.

    20200306_180356.jpg

    The middle lever does seem to go forward to far. Like it is an extra step. Is this normal or is something popping out in there? Also, the way the levers are set up, its Outer - 3pt, Middle - ?? Maybe Aux lines, Inner - Deck. Might reconfigure them a little differently. Any point in having Aux in the back apart from the one running the 3pt cylinder?

    As for the engine. Well, its a pretty old beat up machine, I don't expect everything original. Just hope it runs properly is all I am hoping for right now. I am having a little issue with it right now though. The motor wants to rev really high. So I adjusted the link between the governor arm and carb to 3-5/8" center. I loosened up the governor and rotated the shaft counter clockwise, and then rotated the governor arm the same direction, away from the carb. And tighten it. I am not sure where the bottom spring is suppose to be at so I have it on the second to last hole on the governor arm and 3rd hole from top to bottom on the throttle bracket.

    I can't tell if the governor is working properly or not. When it tries to over rev, I'll choke it to bog it down and I can see the governor arm fighting to keep it alive but if I open the choke to try to get it to run off it, it doesn't seem to do anything to stop the motor from reving way to high. I'll be replace the carb this week because the one it is seems to be pretty worn. The choke is tight so I manually have to choke and unchoke and the main butterfly shaft has a bit of wobble. Would this be cause for my issue or am I missing something? I figured that maybe the carb doesn't have to much to do with the revs because no matter how much fuel or air the motor gets, the governor is suppose to stop it at some point, right?

    If anybody has any input, I'd greatly appreciate it.
    Last edited by GhoSt; 03-09-2020 at 10:20 PM.

  5. #24
    Junior Member
    Display Name: GhoSt

    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Posts
    14
    Thanks
    15
    Thanked 4 Times in 3 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by rwmeyer View Post
    The 3-pt hitch for the 140 and the 3xx series are identical, except for a 45º on one corner near the front. Not sure which one requires the notch, but it's for clearance of as bolt. I've got a 3-pt from a 140 and it fits my 314 & 317 without problems. I believe (??) some 140's did not have a cutout on the center of the fender deck, so a 3-pt could not be used. I also believe (??) that fender deck has a "sub" for a later part number with a cutout and a plate to cover the cutout if not wanted/used. Bob
    20200307_114034.jpg

    Would this be the corner of the cut out?

    Also, I will be taking the 3pt off for right now. Needs new hydraulic lines and I'd like to freshen it up a bit and I seem to be leaking oil from the oil filter on the hydro tranny. Hope it is just bad o-ring on the filter.

    Thank you all for you viewing and your help

    GhoSt
    Last edited by GhoSt; 03-09-2020 at 10:22 PM.

  6. #25
    Senior Member
    Display Name: Matthew Yoder

    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Posts
    176
    Thanks
    14
    Thanked 40 Times in 35 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by GhoSt View Post







    The middle lever does seem to go forward to far. Like it is an extra step. Is this normal or is something popping out in there? Also, the way the levers are set up, its Outer - 3pt, Middle - ?? Maybe Aux lines, Inner - Deck. Might reconfigure them a little differently. Any point in having Aux in the back apart from the one running the 3pt cylinder?
    That forward position is the "float" position for a front snow blade.

    My handles are set up like this:
    Left handle: front ports, blade angle (l/r)
    Middle: front ports, blade (u/d) full forward for float.
    Right handle: rock shaft, lifts mower deck (and rear sleeve hitch, 3pt or tiller)

  7. The Following User Says Thank You to mjydrafter For This Useful Post:

    GhoSt (03-10-2020)

  8. #26
    Senior Member
    Display Name: Sam Myers
    Mudrig150's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Posts
    326
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 20 Times in 18 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by GhoSt View Post

    Would this be the corner of the cut out?

    Also, I will be taking the 3pt off for right now. Needs new hydraulic lines and I'd like to freshen it up a bit and I seem to be leaking oil from the oil filter on the hydro tranny. Hope it is just bad o-ring on the filter.
    GhoSt
    I do believe that is the corner.

    The difference between a 140 frame and a 300 series frame is that the frame on a 300 series stops at the rear plate, while a 140 frame slopes up.

    Your middle lever may seem to go too far because the click at the end is the detent for float, the handle is for the blade lift.
    Outer- Blade angle, 3 point
    Middle: Blade lift, with float detent
    Inner: Rockshaft (deck lift)
    Attached Images Attached Images
    1982 John deere 317, powered by Kohler Magnum 18
    1969 John deere 140 "One eyed Larry", powered by K241, H2 hydraulics
    1963 Burns B-60, Serial 1328

  9. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Mudrig150 For This Useful Post:

    GhoSt (03-10-2020),Merc1973 (03-11-2020)

  10. #27
    Senior Member
    Display Name: Matthew Yoder

    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Posts
    176
    Thanks
    14
    Thanked 40 Times in 35 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by GhoSt View Post

    As for the engine. Well, its a pretty old beat up machine, I don't expect everything original. Just hope it runs properly is all I am hoping for right now. I am having a little issue with it right now though. The motor wants to rev really high. So I adjusted the link between the governor arm and carb to 3-5/8" center. I loosened up the governor and rotated the shaft counter clockwise, and then rotated the governor arm the same direction, away from the carb. And tighten it. I am not sure where the bottom spring is suppose to be at so I have it on the second to last hole on the governor arm and 3rd hole from top to bottom on the throttle bracket.

    I can't tell if the governor is working properly or not. When it tries to over rev, I'll choke it to bog it down and I can see the governor arm fighting to keep it alive but if I open the choke to try to get it to run off it, it doesn't seem to do anything to stop the motor from reving way to high. I'll be replace the carb this week because the one it is seems to be pretty worn. The choke is tight so I manually have to choke and unchoke and the main butterfly shaft has a bit of wobble. Would this be cause for my issue or am I missing something? I figured that maybe the carb doesn't have to much to do with the revs because no matter how much fuel or air the motor gets, the governor is suppose to stop it at some point, right?

    If anybody has any input, I'd greatly appreciate it.
    I think you are getting extra air somewhere, I would guess that throttle shaft. It's common. You can bush it, or you can replace the carb. It will be hard to get it to tune/run right with an air leak.

    Here is how my governor/throttle is set up:
    i-pgGjvCG-X2.jpg

  11. The Following User Says Thank You to mjydrafter For This Useful Post:

    GhoSt (03-10-2020)

  12. #28
    Junior Member
    Display Name: GhoSt

    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Posts
    14
    Thanks
    15
    Thanked 4 Times in 3 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by Mudrig150 View Post
    I do believe that is the corner.

    The difference between a 140 frame and a 300 series frame is that the frame on a 300 series stops at the rear plate, while a 140 frame slopes up.

    Your middle lever may seem to go too far because the click at the end is the detent for float, the handle is for the blade lift.
    Outer- Blade angle, 3 point
    Middle: Blade lift, with float detent
    Inner: Rockshaft (deck lift)
    Ohhhh. Ok, I understand what you mean now. Thank you!

    Quote Originally Posted by mjydrafter View Post
    I think you are getting extra air somewhere, I would guess that throttle shaft. It's common. You can bush it, or you can replace the carb. It will be hard to get it to tune/run right with an air leak.

    Here is how my governor/throttle is set up:
    i-pgGjvCG-X2.jpg
    MJ, Thank you. I mimicked your set up.

    20200310_193529_HDR.jpg

    I see you don't have the throttle cable tied next to the bracket like I do. I think I will follow what you have. It would sort of bind the cable so I am going to take it off. Is there a bracket further down?

    Overall, I still haven't managed to get it running right. I ended up disconnecting the fuel pump because no matter how much I adjusted the needles, it would over flow my carb with fuel. I could see the fuel gracefully flowing out of the carb. That puts my current fuel tank to low to feed the carb so I think I am going to go with the original fuel tank setup and gravity feed. Do you guys recommend a fuel filter or the screen inside the tank be enough?

    After taking the fuel pump off, I can sort of get it running ok. I can actively see the governor moving back and forth when I try to kill the engine by choking it but when I am trying to get it to run on just throttle, it will rev up with out the governor moving much. I can't tell if it is the proper rpms but it will sustain those rpms for a bit then suddenly drop them for a bit before reving back up again. I'll try to post a video next time I am working on it. Hopefully tomorrow.

    Anyways, thank you all for your help.

    GhoSt

  13. #29
    Senior Member
    Display Name: Matthew Yoder

    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Posts
    176
    Thanks
    14
    Thanked 40 Times in 35 Posts
    Any way you can get a tachometer? That will help, if you can get the rpm set correctly.

    My throttle cable had a metal clip/clamp on it (back towards the coil). I made a little stand off for it to push it out a bit (1/2" or so).

    Your comment about the fuel pump has me wondering if your float needle and/or seal need replaced (new carb, so maybe not). I have had "junk" get caught in one and it wouldn't run right until I got it cleaned (it was clean, just had a chunk keeping the needle from sealing.

    I have tried a couple of fuel filters and could never get it to run right, I have no idea why. So, I try and use fresh clean fuel. There is a strainer/screen in the shut off/petcock on the original tank.

  14. The Following User Says Thank You to mjydrafter For This Useful Post:

    GhoSt (03-11-2020)

  15. #30
    Senior Member
    Display Name: Bob Meyer

    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Athens, TN
    Posts
    1,614
    Thanks
    152
    Thanked 361 Times in 298 Posts
    Harbor Freight has a tach for $40. A piece of magnetic tape is applied to the engine. I mount on pto pulley. TEMPORARILY jumper seat switch, start engine and WARM. Point tach at pulley, push button...and there's your rpm!

    I'm with Matt in that carb bowl flooding issue is needle & seat problem or possibly a problem with the float itself. Bob
    '80 317 w/18hp B&S and divert valve for rear hydraulics, 3 pt hitch, 5' york rake
    '82 314 w/rear PTO for tiller
    33 tiller
    49 thrower
    54 4 way blade
    Mod 48 deck & Mod 462 TracVac

  16. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to rwmeyer For This Useful Post:

    GhoSt (03-11-2020),Merc1973 (03-11-2020)

Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •