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Thread: Runs only in neutral

  1. #11
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    Display Name: ss313
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    I will second the “has to be for a 318” comment. I used to work on l&g equipment and knew that there were a few different ones but most worked similarly. While straightening out the wiring on the 318 that I got for my son I had to go to the tractor wiring diagram because the switch wasn’t doing what I thought that it should. I soon found out that the switch was fine but the PO had gotten really creative with the wiring!


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  3. #12
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    I will check the switch. I put in a A-B1SB7280 model. It does have an strange symptom that the switch will not work if turned all the way. I have to slowly turn it to get to just the right spot so it will crank. It is listed as an alternate to the original but maybe something is different. Thanks for all the feedback. I'll keep searching.

  4. #13
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    Looks like the key switch wires may be out of order. The switch has A B S R M G. What would be the proper wire mapping?

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  6. #14
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    Display Name: Bob Meyer

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    I'm thinking you've got an incorrect switch, unless you have magneto ignition. The letters you have should go to:
    A Auxiliary, which is everything that needs to work with key "On". This would have a red and pink wire going to your fuses.
    B Battery, Red wire, and possibly also a green wire pending serial number, connects to circuit breaker.
    S Safety switches 1,2,or3 purple wires connects to safety switches.
    R Relay single purple wire connects to starter solenoid.
    M Magneto This would connect to the magneto ignition. Would be considered the "kill wire."
    G Ground This would work with kill wire to stop engine.

    Hope this helps...and not confuses! Bob
    '80 317 w/18hp B&S and divert valve for rear hydraulics, 3 pt hitch, 5' york rake
    '82 314 w/rear PTO for tiller
    33 tiller
    49 thrower
    54 4 way blade
    Mod 48 deck & Mod 462 TracVac

  7. #15
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    Thanks Bob. This switch was listed as an alternate for the original on the JD parts website so I would hope there was a way to connect it correctly. Does anyone know if I could combine the safety switches s1 s2 since this switch has only one s?

  8. #16
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    Display Name: Bob Meyer

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    Connect safety switches to S terminal. Find purple wire coming from solenoid on starter and connect that wire to R. By the schematic ChuckV supplied, you could say that s2 is really S on your switch, and s1 is R on your switch. Bob
    '80 317 w/18hp B&S and divert valve for rear hydraulics, 3 pt hitch, 5' york rake
    '82 314 w/rear PTO for tiller
    33 tiller
    49 thrower
    54 4 way blade
    Mod 48 deck & Mod 462 TracVac

  9. #17
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    Also for reference the SN is 289950.

  10. #18
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    Display Name: Bill Fleisch
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    I agree that that PN is listed as an alternate, but when you look up the original PN AM38227 it actually lists 3 different PN, one of which is the one you have. No idea why there are 3, but highly suspicious. Couple of questions. I read back through this and I apologize if I missed something, but was this symptom there before you changed the ignition switch? I saw where you replaced the seat switch, but missed the ignition switch. I don't like that this switch is only working if you hold it in a certain position. Again is that a new symptom or the original? Can you please level set?

    I agree with Chuck that it its unlikely it is the TDCM, but I did work with a buddy on trouble shooting a similar problem and it ended up being the TDCM after many hours of checking with a meter. I would not take the wiring harness connector apart to try and match your new switch. Without knowing the answer to my questions my inclination is to get the correct PN as others have previously stated.

  11. #19
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    I got this mower last year and am bringing it back from the dead. It ran for a short time then stopped. I have been replacing some other parts including the fuel pump, charge pump seal, fuse connections and the key switch. All the lights dont work yet either. The key switch was very corroded and I think I may even still have it. It would not start at all until I changed the key switch. Then it started and has the existing symptoms. I don't mind ordering a different switch if that's the likely culprit. I just have to make sure I get the right one.

  12. #20
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    Display Name: Bob Meyer

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    From the jdparts site and what I can find online, the switch you have should work. Will the female plug on your wiring harness connect to back of switch? Do the wires & colors match up with what I previously posted in thread #14?

    It also appears that you do in fact have a battery & coil ignition system so you don't need the M & G terminals on your switch connected to anything. If the colors going to S & R are different from what I posted, don't worry. Those terminals are interchangable.

    Bill, I believe the part numbers listed in alternate are the manufacturer's part numbers that correspond to the Deere AM38227. Bob
    '80 317 w/18hp B&S and divert valve for rear hydraulics, 3 pt hitch, 5' york rake
    '82 314 w/rear PTO for tiller
    33 tiller
    49 thrower
    54 4 way blade
    Mod 48 deck & Mod 462 TracVac

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