My 455 issues
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Thread: My 455 issues

  1. #1
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    Display Name: Hank455

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    My 455 issues

    Hey all,

    So here is what I have going on with my 455. It's been running fine all spring just towing around a cart for leaf/brush pickup. Last week I went to mow for the first time and the trouble started. Less than a minute after I pulled the PTO knob and started mowing the mower and tractor just shut down. Dead, no nothing when you turned the key. I found a blown 20 amp fuse and replaced it (not sure what was for). It immediately started right up and ran fine for about 8 minutes (not mowing, just idling and driving cart). Then it slowly died. It would restart but would not throttle up and was running very rough. I could see the throttle moving on the injection pump but the engine didn't respond just ran slow and rough. I was able to limp it back to the garage. It still starts right up, but runs slow, rough, and won't throttle up. The foot pedal also seems like it's bound up like you can't put any pressure on it as it has no give or take. The local JD dealer is of course booked for the next few weeks so I thought I would see what I can do. Their suggestion was to check wiring and the PTO clutch. I'm not quite sure where to begin if something mechanical failed first and caused the blown fuse or it it is just electrical related. It all started when I used the mower PTO for the first time this year however.

    I'm new here, but I'm interested in any help of course and it is much appreciated! Let me hear your thoughts...

    Thank you,
    Hank455

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  3. #2
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    Display Name: TimS

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    Hank, off the top of my head, I am thinking the lift pump in the fuel tank - either the pump itself, or more likely something electrical that gets power to it, possibly another blown fuse. Another quick thing to check would be the fuel shutoff solenoid - make sure it is retracting all the way when the key is in the run position. It seems possible that the injection pump is working fine, but is getting starved for fuel.

    Can you clarify which fuse you replaced? That might help with remote diagnosis.

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    Display Name: Jim Pennycuff

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    My two cents worth from experience with my 455. Check the in-tank fuel pump screen. My was clogged causing the injection pump to be starved for fuel. Also, I once had a 332 that had a shorted fuel shutoff solenoid that would blow fuses and caused erratic running engine.

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  6. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by flymo View Post
    Hank, off the top of my head, I am thinking the lift pump in the fuel tank - either the pump itself, or more likely something electrical that gets power to it, possibly another blown fuse. Another quick thing to check would be the fuel shutoff solenoid - make sure it is retracting all the way when the key is in the run position. It seems possible that the injection pump is working fine, but is getting starved for fuel.

    Can you clarify which fuse you replaced? That might help with remote diagnosis.
    It was the upper 20 amp fuse on what I think may be the ignition control module/key switch assembly between the cruise control lever and the radiator. Not sure what that particular fuse is for however. I can see it being an electrical related fuel thing. The fuel bowl is always staying full with fuel if this means anything.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jimpennycuff View Post
    My two cents worth from experience with my 455. Check the in-tank fuel pump screen. My was clogged causing the injection pump to be starved for fuel. Also, I once had a 332 that had a shorted fuel shutoff solenoid that would blow fuses and caused erratic running engine.
    The previous owner had replaced the fuel shutoff solenoid around 2013 from the sticker on it. This seems to be working as I think it's what I hear and see moving the plunger on the injection pump when I turn the key. I can check the in-tank fuel pump screen though.

  8. #6
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    Display Name: Bob Stillwagon

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    Also on my 2 455's (a 1998 model and a 2001 model) the 2 fuses on the ignition switch electronics board are both blue 15 amp fuses. Also know the 1997 model had 15 amp fuses. Unless they are different for early years of 455 (and yours is an early year model) they should probably be changed out for the 15's. I agree check the fuel pump first including the screen and the hoses. Also might want to check the filter on the fuel pump. And before you try to turn off the petcock remove the screw that locks it in place.

    Just in case you haven't had the fender deck off before here are a few tips. The fender deck is much easier to take off if you first remove the long pin that holds the seat on the base and remove the seat. It is much easier to handle without the seat flopping around. Also don't forget the pull the taillights sockets and the wire harness to the seat safety switch which has to feed out through the hole the wires come up through.
    1998 JD 455, 40 Loader, 3 Pt, Rear PTO, Ballast box, wheel weights, rear hydro outlets
    2001 JD 455 60 mower deck, rear hydro outlets
    Spare 60" mower deck
    King Kutter XB Dump Trailer modified to dump with either the manual pump or tractor hydraulics.
    1984 Peco 32 bushel leaf vacuum modified to dump from tractor using linear actuator.

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    Display Name: TimS

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    Hank, I looked at the Technical Manual, TM1517, and if the fuse was on a board it would appear to be the F6 Power Fuse. If it was loose, just between a couple of wires, it could have been the F4 Fuel Pump Fuse. From your initial symptoms, I am betting on the former, since I'd expect the tractor to at least crank even if the fuel pump fuse was blown. Unfortunately it looks like a lot of circuits flow through that F6 fuse, so diagnosis may become interesting.

    I think the first thing I would try would be to see if you have battery voltage at the fuel pump with the the key switch in the run position. TM1517 has a lot of diagnostic tests - we have crummy internet so i can't send a copy but someone else may be able to.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bobstillwagon View Post
    Also on my 2 455's (a 1998 model and a 2001 model) the 2 fuses on the ignition switch electronics board are both blue 15 amp fuses. Also know the 1997 model had 15 amp fuses. Unless they are different for early years of 455 (and yours is an early year model) they should probably be changed out for the 15's. I agree check the fuel pump first including the screen and the hoses. Also might want to check the filter on the fuel pump. And before you try to turn off the petcock remove the screw that locks it in place.

    Just in case you haven't had the fender deck off before here are a few tips. The fender deck is much easier to take off if you first remove the long pin that holds the seat on the base and remove the seat. It is much easier to handle without the seat flopping around. Also don't forget the pull the taillights sockets and the wire harness to the seat safety switch which has to feed out through the hole the wires come up through.
    Interesting, my ignition switch circuit board definitely has 2 yellow 20 amp fuses in it. It appears that they have been changed out with the wrong amp rating I guess? I will replace them both with the 15s. My 455 is a '99 by the way so should take the 15 amp like you said. I replaced the fuel filter this spring so I don't believe that's an issue.

    I have not had the fender deck off yet so that info is helpful - Thanks.

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    Quote Originally Posted by flymo View Post
    Hank, I looked at the Technical Manual, TM1517, and if the fuse was on a board it would appear to be the F6 Power Fuse. If it was loose, just between a couple of wires, it could have been the F4 Fuel Pump Fuse. From your initial symptoms, I am betting on the former, since I'd expect the tractor to at least crank even if the fuel pump fuse was blown. Unfortunately it looks like a lot of circuits flow through that F6 fuse, so diagnosis may become interesting.

    I think the first thing I would try would be to see if you have battery voltage at the fuel pump with the the key switch in the run position. TM1517 has a lot of diagnostic tests - we have crummy internet so i can't send a copy but someone else may be able to.
    The fuse that blew was on the board and should have been a 15 amp not a 20 amp that was there so should be this F6 power fuse. I'll try and find some time this weekend to test the voltage at the pump. I'm just curious if this is a fuel/electrical problem (and I think it may be) why did it not start until I tried using the mower PTO for the first time this spring?

    I need to get better at this electrical stuff I've never been good at it. Thanks flymo.

  12. #10
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    Display Name: Bob Stillwagon

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    Will add this but I would suggest you check all the other stuff first. I had issues recently with my 2001 455. 1st I would occasionally hear the fuel pump run when I bumped the tractor even with the key off. Then the fuel solenoid's initial pull in quit working. Thought ignition switch and replaced it, no change. Started jiggling the big wire bundle that goes from the electrical stuff behind the radiator down through the floor pan and got changes in symptoms specifically the pull in on the fuel solenoid started working again. Kept jiggling and got smoke so quickly disconnected battery. Got underneath and started looking and the wire bundle was rubbing on the top of the power steering control valve. It had worn insulation of 3 wires and 1 was completely in two. First thought new wire harness but discovered I could pull the harness down enough to get to it to repair it. Got it repaired by butt splicing a short piece into 2 of the wires and soldering and taping the 3rd. Don't like crimp on butt splices but it is working. Re did the split wire cover (which had apparently shifted enough to allow wires to rub) and got it all back in place then put a piece of pool noodle between the harness and the power steering control valve for added insurance. If the butt splices give me issues I will replace them with short pieces of individual wires and use proper soldered connections.
    So then I checked my 1998 455 just in case and it was fine ... no rubbing in the harness. For anyone who has a 4X5 this would be a good thing to check when you have the deck off as it would be a lot easier to fix before insulation is rubbed through.
    Last edited by bobstillwagon; Yesterday at 10:42 AM.
    1998 JD 455, 40 Loader, 3 Pt, Rear PTO, Ballast box, wheel weights, rear hydro outlets
    2001 JD 455 60 mower deck, rear hydro outlets
    Spare 60" mower deck
    King Kutter XB Dump Trailer modified to dump with either the manual pump or tractor hydraulics.
    1984 Peco 32 bushel leaf vacuum modified to dump from tractor using linear actuator.

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