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  1. #11
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    Display Name: chasdrng

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    where was your votage regulater located and what did it look like

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  3. #12
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    Display Name: Bob Holland

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    The voltage regulator on the Onan engines is mounted in the engine shroud on the oil filter side. It has 3 lugs with wires attached. Two of the wires go to the stator behind the flywheel and the center one goes to the coil i believe.

  4. #13
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    Display Name: tmac

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    On my 316, I know...different tractor, with Onan twin the center VR post goes to the ignition switch...feeds juice back to the battery through the switch. The Ignition wire in the switch goes to the coil. Maybe 318's are different?
    You can check that your battery is getting a charge by starting it and running it and checking voltage on the battery posts with a meter...should be up around 13-14 volts if the VR is doing its job. It's a good thing to check ground connections and all wire connections and treat with Di-E grease during tractor maintenance inspections...if not then, when?

  5. #14
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    Display Name: Chuck Van Dusen
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    Tmac,

    You are correct -- all Onan regulators have a wire that goes back to the battery by some route...most through the circuit breaker or the place the circuit breaker connects to the ignition switch (depending on year and SN.) Here is the wiring excerpt showig that area of the schematic.

    318 charging circuit.JPG

    The voltage to the coil on the ONAN engine on these Deere tractors comes from the TDCM...it is the same terminal the powers the hour meter.

    Chuck

  6. #15
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    Display Name: Graham

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    I've replaced several of the 'ganged' multi spade connectors in my tractor with indivdually crimped spade connectors now. The ganged connectors were probably fine 40 years ago but they are failing now. the single spades seem like a better idea to me as you can tell if one is loose or corroded whereas the multi conectors hide the issue

  7. #16
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    Display Name: CaptPete

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    In my opinion, what you're seeing is a lack of charge going to the battery. The battery charging light and the voltage at the battery of under 13 volts would have pointed me towards checking out the situation. A multimeter and test procedures for the regulator and alternator would be where I'd start to find where the problem really was. Connectors are good to check and maintain, but just cleaning them or replacing them won't solve many electrical problems and unless this one is really fixed, you're looking at the new battery depleting it's charge just like the old one did, especially when you're using the electric clutch. In the mean time, while you're checking out your charging components, I would recommend using a battery charger on your new battery after each use (a trickle charge overnight should be adequate).

  8. #17
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    Display Name: Tim

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    New to me 318 just went through the same issue. Checked power at all locations and it ended up being a dirty connection at the starter. pulled off wire cleaned put back on and works like a charm.

  9. #18
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    Display Name: tmac

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    Not sure if you have a B or P Onan, but if you have a B engine you can check/disconnect/clean/reinstall starter connection from the front of the tractor with the grille off...requires some creative stretching but can be done. Not sure where the starter connection is on the P Onan engines.

  10. #19
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    Display Name: CaptPete

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    Quote Originally Posted by tmac58star View Post
    Not sure if you have a B or P Onan, but if you have a B engine you can check/disconnect/clean/reinstall starter connection from the front of the tractor with the grille off...requires some creative stretching but can be done. Not sure where the starter connection is on the P Onan engines.
    The general starter system circuit is pretty much the same, with the main difference being whether you have a solenoid that's separate or integral to the starter, and some of the P Onans came with the same configuration as the B engines. Both versions have a harness that's almost the same, and part of the starter/ignition system circuit contains a number of safety switches and interconnecting wires and to fault-find this (or any other system) is not difficult. There are quite a few really good color coded wiring diagrams that can be used in conjunction with a multi-meter to trace and understand the wiring and components in a system you're interested in. Once the circuit is understood, you can do a cleanup and coating of all the various connections - including grounds. Once this is done, you usually won't need to go back to the individual connectors and can focus on diagnosing the various items that are interconnected with the wires. Most of the items are mechanical, like a switch, or electro-mechanical, like a solenoid (an electro-mechanical switch), or starter motor. There are also a couple of items that are made up of various discrete electronic components and potted so you can only see the input/output pins. The mechanical and electro-mechanical items can be tested easily with jumpers or multi-meter (or both). The electronic units have associated test procedures that can be followed, using a multi-meter.

    This approach even works for those tractors that have been "oddly" rewired by some PO - It can be a bunch more work, but it amounts to being the same thing, understanding what the circuit does. I still go back to the original wiring diagram and then use the multi-meter to "ring out" the "custom wiring" and see how that relates to the OEM layout. If I find things that don't make sense to me, I lean towards replacing it with some new wiring that does make sense and follows OEM logic.

  11. #20
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    Display Name: tmac

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    You can also check voltage to the starter from up front behind the grille. I've had several GTs with stuck starters due to lack of use and dirt/grime etc. Cleaned up and given 12 volts and they kicked right off.

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