This would be for a 1970, 112 with hyd. lift. Will the same lift rod work on a front blade that works the lift with the snowblower, or would i need a different lift arm for the blade ?? Have a blower on now, going to look at a couple of blades that i found in this area. Just wanted to make sure f i need a lift arm that would be needed for a 43 blade. Dave
Gary and Dennis, on my first attempt to look up the belt I entered 38 as model lookup. At the top of the page picked 38 tractor mounted mower. Then, belt-mower deck drive. That's where the newer deck showed up.
That's what I think the parts person did too. But most of us know a #38 and #39 look different.
Take a look.
Dave just like there is a link between the front lift and the blower on the tractor the is a much shorter version consisting of two flat pieces of metal, two hitch pins and two hitch pin clips. You can also use what is in the picture which is a 1/4"/5/16" chain connector. Roger
Thank you for the picture. I know what to look for now. Pretty much new to all the JD stuff. Everyone on the forum has been a big help. Thnx again Dave
Would anyone out there have a set of lift brackets for a 39 inch mower deck to mount on a 212?? Also looking for a starter drive gear. Doesn't seem to be available from JD anymore.
Thanks Mike,been playing around with it,I like that I can raise it up from the tractor seat.Been using it like plowing a field,long rows first,then doing the ends.
Gary, I made a rake just like that a few years ago. Had it mounted 3pt to my 4100 compact tractor. The rake didn't hold up well. Some of the tines bent in the shape of dish until they started tangling with the tines of the wheel behind it.. the frame I built was a bit overkill, and I think the extra weight, combined with uneven ground caused too much pressure. With your lighter frame you might be OK. Just keep an eye on your tines. If they start feathering back, you might consider rigging up some guide wheels to bare some of the weight and keep the tines just in contact with the ground.
It sure was fun while it lasted, though. Just like windrowing hay.
Brian that isn't anymore heavier than if it was left as a trailer rake.I can go through ditches without a problem,real steap ditch might hang it up.With the float of the rear hitch it allows it to pass over uneven terrain.
I was cutting fire wood and I guess the wife felt sorry for me and she started mowing the lawn (first time she has ever mowed since we moved to our place a year ago). She was mowing near the fence line in the back and hit an old locust stump and broke the bolt that holds the center blade on the deck. What am I looking at to fix this. I got the deck off last night and that's all I had time for. I'm guessing there's still a half inch worth or so of the bolt still up in there.
It's a 318 with a 50" deck.
Also any recommendations on things I should consider replacing while the deck is off? I know those plastic wheels are pretty wore out on my deck. And is there a way to tell if I have the speed up pulley on my deck or not?
The second part is a mower deck draft arm off of a square fender 110 112 tractor. The forth pic is a mower deck block off plate to mulch the grass if you don't want it I would buy it from you. You can e-mail me if you wanna get rid of it.
First day of DEERE season for the fall, landed this nice piece. A John Deere 400 with Brantly power steering, a 54 4 way hydraulic front blade, and a perfect working Brantly Back Hoe, and a 3pt hitch. I love hunting..... I also spotted while on this adventure a 66 110 with loader, a sickle bar, and tiller.. A 140 H3 with 54C center blade, 3 PT hitch, and a 49 blower, I will be stalking this hunting spot for a while.
Here ya go Dick,it isn't anything fancy.The rusty piece of flat steel will be removed & a 3 foot piece of angle will be welded on the right side.When it is raised the long arm bounces to much when in travel position.It is raised from the seat,kind of like plowing a field,long rows first then hit the ends.
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