John Deere cart
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 11

Thread: John Deere cart

  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Display Name: BigRed30
    BigRed30's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Harvest, Al
    Posts
    283
    Thanks
    28
    Thanked 25 Times in 21 Posts

    John Deere cart

    Has anyone ever seen a john Deere model 10S cart? I found one for sale and I can't find a pic of one on the Internet. It is newer but it's metal not plastic. But I want to make sure it is a real john Deere cart before buying it. Thanks!
    If you don't take the time to do something right the first time. When are you going to have the time to do it again?

  2. Remove Advertisements
    WFMachines.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. #2
    Senior Member
    Display Name: Rydplrs

    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    7,563
    Thanks
    933
    Thanked 1,051 Times in 824 Posts
    It's real, it's decent in today's world

  4. #3
    Senior Member
    Display Name: BigRed30
    BigRed30's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Harvest, Al
    Posts
    283
    Thanks
    28
    Thanked 25 Times in 21 Posts
    Thanks.
    If you don't take the time to do something right the first time. When are you going to have the time to do it again?

  5. Remove Advertisements
    WFMachines.com
    Advertisements
     

  6. #4
    Senior Member
    Display Name: Roger Henning

    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Sharon WI
    Posts
    10,144
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 577 Times in 484 Posts
    10S is for 10 steel as opposed to 10P for 10 plastic. Both are 10 cubic foot carts. I believe both are still currently being sold. Roger

  7. The Following User Says Thank You to woodpecker41 For This Useful Post:

    BigRed30 (07-07-2015)

  8. #5
    Senior Member
    Display Name: Martincom1
    martincom1's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Brainerd, MN
    Posts
    222
    Thanks
    2
    Thanked 41 Times in 34 Posts
    The 10S was sold in the early '90s----I purchased one in '92 and still have it. Deere quit marketing the steel cart and went to the plastic carts for a number of years. Recently, they re-introduced the steel carts with some improvements and larger capacities. The 10 has been replaced by the 13 and the 15 by the 18. They are being marketed through the parts side of Deere and the 18 through the big box stores. The 13 is selling for around 390.00 and the 18 for around 475.00.

    I was looking for another 10 two months ago, but those I found were selling for near or more than a new 13. I ultimately went with the 18 as one of things I utilize a cart for is cleaning our beach of washed up reeds and weeds, which have a fair amount of volume, but not much weight. I still have my 10 and it is going to the second home we're purchasing.

    My 10 has seen a fair amount of use and a lot of abuse. I know I have moved 100 yards plus of dirt with it and that was with it loaded until the dirt was dribbling over the sides. When I first bought it, I looked at the folded lip on top of the tail gate and the front panel and concluded it was a real weak area that would be an immediate issue. So I cut lengths of 1x1x 11 gauge steel tube and clamped them into the inside of the bend. I then drilled 1/8" holes through the cart steel and into the tube at approximately 6" intervals and staggered on each side of the cart folded lip. I then tapped those in the tube with a 1/4 coarse tap and drilled the cart 1/8" holes to 13/64". After painting the steel tube with JD green rattle can paint, I bolted them into the lips of the cart with 1/4 x 1/2" bolts.

    Over the years, I buckled the tongue at the latch pivot bolt after a number of full loads of dirt failed to dump and came crashing down on the tongue. I replaced the tongue, which was a stamped "C" channel with a piece of 14 gauge box steel----much stronger.

    I also had to reinforce the front of the box, on the bottom side, with 1-1/2" angle iron and a 1" flat stock in the box as the box and front panel were beginning to separate.

    I also had to reinforce the bottom rear tail gate opening with 1x1x11 gauge steel tube as the box bottom was beginning to buckle. This was from carry large items (like free standing scaffolding ends) in the cart with the tailgate off.

    I pretty much applied all these modifications to the new 18 cart, as well.

    I've been meaning to do a write up, with photos, but I probably won't get to it until fall.

    I can't speak for the 13 cart, but the 18 cart appears to have a few improvements over the 15, in addition to capacity. The tongue while still stamped is now a "C" channel with a 1" horizontal lip on each side, making it much stronger. The front box support/latch is a hefty piece of 1/4" plate stock rather than the former shaped strap. The wheels/tires are also bigger. Unless you're getting a great price on the 10S you're looking at, you might want to chat with your JD parts guy about a new 13 or 18.

  9. The Following User Says Thank You to martincom1 For This Useful Post:

    dhager4692 (07-10-2015)

  10. #6
    Senior Member
    Display Name: Martincom1
    martincom1's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Brainerd, MN
    Posts
    222
    Thanks
    2
    Thanked 41 Times in 34 Posts
    Here are photos of the Dump Cart modifications I've made to strengthen the cart or repair my abuse:

    DSCF1388.JPG

    Above is the rear view of the 18 Dump Cart I acquired in Spring 2015. Across the top of the tail gate I added the 1x1 11 gauge steel tubing. Along the rear bottom of the bed I also added 1x1 steel tube. This keeps the bottom from getting bent out when dumping/spreading. It also reinforces the side angle reinforcements to the box bottom.

    DSCF1397.JPG

    My 10 cart's box bottom was starting to buckle at the gap between the side angle reinforcements and the box bottom reinforcement. This was from carrying loads that put a lot of outward force at the top of the box sides, such as free standing scaffolding ends. Adding the 1x1 steel tube resolved that weak area. I added the steel tubing to the inside of the front panel and tailgates lips the day I bought it as I knew I would buckle them in short order if I didn't.

    DSCF1389.JPG

    I also drilled and tapped the pivot pins bolts into the 1x1 steel tubing, which greatly reinforced them. I replaced the OEM slotted round head bolts with hex heads.


    DSCF1391.JPG

    This is the front of the 18 Dump Cart. Again, 1x1 steel tubing was placed along the inside of the top front panel lip and secured with 1/4" bolts into drilled/tapped holes in the steel tubing.


    DSCF1392.JPG

    This is the front bottom of the 18 Dump Cart. Depicted here is the 1-1/4 x 1/8" flat steel strap that I added to reinforce the front panel connection to the box bottom.


    DSCF1400.JPG

    After years of use, the front panel was beginning to separate from the box bottom in my 10 Dump cart. Adding the flat strap, in part, resolved that.

    DSCF1396.JPG

    This the front underside of the 18 Dump Cart. Here, I added 1-1/2 x 1/8" angle iron along the front bottom of the box. The bolts securing the flat strap in the previous photo are also drilled into the angle so the box bottom and the lip of the front panel are sandwiched between.


    DSCF1401.JPG

    I had issues with the box bottom beginning to deform on the 10 cart. When fully loaded with dirt, sometimes the dirt would not slide out and the box would come slamming down on the tongue. As the latch bracket only attached at two points on the 10 cart, this would cause the bottom to deform. Adding the angle iron resolved this. The Dymo label was affixed by the dealer as a "serial number" tag. It is the date I purchased this cart new, 08/23/94. It only seems like a couple of years ago, not 21!

    DSCF1393.JPG DSCF1394.JPG

    I added thick (14 gauge) fender washers to the front and back side of the tailgate latch bolts. This served two purpose, first it prevented the tailgate from becoming warped when there was high pressure on the latch. Second, it spaced the latch out from the tailgate so it would not become scratched from the latch rubbing against it when opening/closing the latch.


    DSCF1402.JPG DSCF1403.JPG

    The original tongue of the 10 Dump Cart was just a length of stamped channel. The weak point is where it was drilled for the box latch pivot bolt. After a period of time and having a number of full loads of dirt come slamming down on the tongue, when failing to dump, the tongue buckled at the pivot bolt. I replaced it with 14 gauge box tube. Using a hole saw, I cut an access hole in the bottom of it so I could install the latch return spring. I kept the hole small enough to leave material along the edge, so as not to create a weak spot.


    DSCF1399.JPG

    This photo depicts the end of the 1x1 steel tube added to reinforce the bottom rear of the box.
    Last edited by martincom1; 09-18-2015 at 07:09 PM.

  11. #7
    Senior Member
    Display Name: Grant Baker
    Grant Baker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Manitoulin Island,Ontario,Canada
    Posts
    3,524
    Thanks
    1,108
    Thanked 747 Times in 605 Posts
    That's a real nice cart,with nice add ons,thanks Martin
    ,1966 60 parts tractor,1968 60 w/mower,1968 110 side tag w/ 43 snow blade, 1968 110 w/1974 80 cart,1968 112 w/mower,1969 110,​1999 LX277 w/mower and blower.43C center blade,Brinly sleeve hitch plow,Brinly disc,Brinly cultivator

  12. #8
    Senior Member
    Display Name: Roger Henning

    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Sharon WI
    Posts
    10,144
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 577 Times in 484 Posts
    I did basically the same modifications to my model 7 cart and it makes it much more usable. It is amazing what some angle iron and an opening tailgate do to make it more usable. Roger
    Attached Images Attached Images

  13. #9
    Senior Member
    Display Name: Martincom1
    martincom1's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Brainerd, MN
    Posts
    222
    Thanks
    2
    Thanked 41 Times in 34 Posts
    Roger,

    Did you have the inside of your cart spayed with bed liner or is that just paint? If bed liner, any issues with material not wanting to dump and "clinging" to the bed liner?

  14. #10
    Senior Member
    Display Name: Roger Henning

    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Sharon WI
    Posts
    10,144
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 577 Times in 484 Posts
    No issues with it dumping what I dump with the bedliner. I do think that the 7 cart dumps better because the box is shorter and that lets it angle more. Bedliner is nice because if you scratch the bedliner it is easy to respray and match without being obvious. The bedliner is the spray can stuff they sell at Walmart. About $10 a trailer. Roger

  15. The Following User Says Thank You to woodpecker41 For This Useful Post:

    martincom1 (09-21-2015)

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •