110 idle question???
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Problem: floods out very bad after mowing
This 425 tractor is the first year which had the vacuum controlled fuel shut off solenoid. After that they switched to an electric switch at the base of the carb. So far I have done the following:
1. replaced time delay module
2. new vented gas cap
3.installed electric fuel shut off solenoid in the fuel line near the carb
4. adjusted float and inspected float
5. inspected needle and looks good
6. re-soldered the connections at the ignitor assembly
7. Tested vacuum controlled fuel shut off solenoid and seems to be working
Still floods out. So now I am thinking I need to move to the new style of carb to get the positive stop of fuel but $285 for the carb!!
Any other ideas before I shell out some cash? I considered trading up for a X530 but after looking at them structurely I would be trading down. Plus that is a lot more than a $285 carb.
Barry
This 425 tractor is the first year which had the vacuum controlled fuel shut off solenoid. After that they switched to an electric switch at the base of the carb. So far I have done the following:
1. replaced time delay module
2. new vented gas cap
3.installed electric fuel shut off solenoid in the fuel line near the carb
4. adjusted float and inspected float
5. inspected needle and looks good
6. re-soldered the connections at the ignitor assembly
7. Tested vacuum controlled fuel shut off solenoid and seems to be working
Still floods out. So now I am thinking I need to move to the new style of carb to get the positive stop of fuel but $285 for the carb!!
Any other ideas before I shell out some cash? I considered trading up for a X530 but after looking at them structurely I would be trading down. Plus that is a lot more than a $285 carb.
Barry
Barry-
I'm not up to speed on 425's, but have you checked the spark on this tractor after it floods out?
It's a known fact that some small engines, as they age, will produce a good spark when cold, but not when warm. After they warm up (I mean like after an hour or two of run time) the coil assembly degrades to the point where it does not put out a strong enough spark to run the engine. If you're shutting it down and then it won't restart, you could be getting a coil that, when heat-soaked, isn't working correctly.
Just a thought....
I'm not up to speed on 425's, but have you checked the spark on this tractor after it floods out?
It's a known fact that some small engines, as they age, will produce a good spark when cold, but not when warm. After they warm up (I mean like after an hour or two of run time) the coil assembly degrades to the point where it does not put out a strong enough spark to run the engine. If you're shutting it down and then it won't restart, you could be getting a coil that, when heat-soaked, isn't working correctly.
Just a thought....
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153 Posts
Barry,
I'm still catching up, was gone for a few days. I saw the post on the carb prices, yikes X2! I think I paid $85 on the 'bay for a NIB, still had the Kaw/JD labels on it. Like I said, it's been good since I changed it. I did find all that stuff wrong with the old one, so I know that was the problem.
I'd guess, if you had the time to keep watch, you'd be able to find a good one for less than JD new price. I believe that's all you haven't tried or done to fix it. I hate to "shotgun" a post with possible fixes, but that may be a good move to replace the carb with the late style unit.
I'm thinking out loud.........you're sure it's flooding over from the heat, gas boiling out the top and into the manifold, we know the fuel isn't getting into the carb from the fuel supply line (it's shut off), I'd bet on the carb being the problem.
Fred
I'm still catching up, was gone for a few days. I saw the post on the carb prices, yikes X2! I think I paid $85 on the 'bay for a NIB, still had the Kaw/JD labels on it. Like I said, it's been good since I changed it. I did find all that stuff wrong with the old one, so I know that was the problem.
I'd guess, if you had the time to keep watch, you'd be able to find a good one for less than JD new price. I believe that's all you haven't tried or done to fix it. I hate to "shotgun" a post with possible fixes, but that may be a good move to replace the carb with the late style unit.
I'm thinking out loud.........you're sure it's flooding over from the heat, gas boiling out the top and into the manifold, we know the fuel isn't getting into the carb from the fuel supply line (it's shut off), I'd bet on the carb being the problem.
Fred
Scored a used carb for $75 from http://www.jimsrepairjimstractors.com/
Should have it next week.
Barry
Should have it next week.
Barry
Update...finally got a used new style carb with the electric fuel shut off solenoid in the bottom of the carb. Cleaned it and installed it...wow what a great running engine! It has always had an eratic miss to it in the 6 years I have mowed with it and its gone as well as the flooding issue after mowing with ti. Runs awesome!! Thanks for all of the help I have gotten here.
Barry
Barry
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153 Posts
Barry,
Glad you have it running well, they're a pleasure to drive when they're right, aren't they?
I checked over three "core" carbs I have in my spares boxes, all show wear and tear in various places. I see these as parts only units. I will continue to watch for good NOS parts for mine. I know, in time, I'll need stuff that will no longer be available for sure.
Deere will only support me for so long, then I'm on my own. The rough running issues I've had are only a small piece of the puzzle. I do have one spare engine with 700+ hrs on it, sitting on the shelf. Hopefully, things will be good for years to come.
Glad you have yours fixed!!
Glad you have it running well, they're a pleasure to drive when they're right, aren't they?
I checked over three "core" carbs I have in my spares boxes, all show wear and tear in various places. I see these as parts only units. I will continue to watch for good NOS parts for mine. I know, in time, I'll need stuff that will no longer be available for sure.
Deere will only support me for so long, then I'm on my own. The rough running issues I've had are only a small piece of the puzzle. I do have one spare engine with 700+ hrs on it, sitting on the shelf. Hopefully, things will be good for years to come.
Glad you have yours fixed!!
I thought I would keep my old carb because it did have a new throttle shaft and choke shaft in it. Parts like that look the same. Again thanks for the help Fred! And your right, I told my wife that this is the first time in a while I enjoyed mowing. I hate when something isn't right but now she's smooootthh!!
Barry
Barry
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153 Posts
Yep, I couldn't agree more wholeheartedly. They're a great machine, I'd be lost without that workhorse!
The wife's GX345 is a cute, nice machine, but.........a little too nice for me! The rough ground that I have to contend with will reek havoc on the deck and deck wheels. I've already broken two bolts and even ran over one of the wheels!
My heavy duty deck on the 425 just keeps going and asking for more........
The wife's GX345 is a cute, nice machine, but.........a little too nice for me! The rough ground that I have to contend with will reek havoc on the deck and deck wheels. I've already broken two bolts and even ran over one of the wheels!
My heavy duty deck on the 425 just keeps going and asking for more........
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153 Posts
Barry, I love these older model tractors! Some fun, when they're running right. Mine is still performing at it's best and it now has a new 'big brother'....I broke down and bought a '77 JD 2240 w/520 loader & 603 deck!
My '56 JD 40 is still here, doing LX5 mower duty until I'm sure I like the newer model. The 40 may become a parade tractor, or something....
I haven't worked the 2240 yet, but so far, it's typical of '70's JD products, big, heavy duty, runs great and is fun to drive!
My '56 JD 40 is still here, doing LX5 mower duty until I'm sure I like the newer model. The 40 may become a parade tractor, or something....
I haven't worked the 2240 yet, but so far, it's typical of '70's JD products, big, heavy duty, runs great and is fun to drive!
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66 Posts
Barry,
Did you have to change anything else to upgrade to the late model carb? How/where did you hook up the electric fuel cutoff solenoid? I have an early 425 with similar issues. Thinking this might be the answer to at least some of the issues.
Did you have to change anything else to upgrade to the late model carb? How/where did you hook up the electric fuel cutoff solenoid? I have an early 425 with similar issues. Thinking this might be the answer to at least some of the issues.
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153 Posts
The carb bolted on and hooked up exactly the same as the one I took off. I wired the solenoid to the harness connector that used to power the vent solenoid. I checked it with a DVM, it is B+ voltage in both "start" & "run" positions. That's needed to allow fuel to flow whenever the key is in any position other than "off". With the electric fuel pump, it's probably not totally necessary for the shut-off solenoid to be energized while cranking but I wanted fuel to flow while cranking, just in case the carb wasn't full yet.
I usually turn the ignition to the "on" position and wait a few seconds for the fuel to fill the carb before cranking, it seems to start a bit quicker after it's been sitting for long periods.
I usually turn the ignition to the "on" position and wait a few seconds for the fuel to fill the carb before cranking, it seems to start a bit quicker after it's been sitting for long periods.
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1,663 Posts
Any one know if the throttle shaft and bushing in these carbs are sold individually from deere ? We got one that is worn very bad , did a temporary fix and she runs great , but need to fix it more permanently. Thanks in advance 
ave
PS. It's a 96' model 425
ave PS. It's a 96' model 425
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10,675 Posts
David look at this site www.carbrescue.com. A bunch of the guys in another club I belong to have used him with good success. I think the best thing is he will not quote a price until he sees what you have and what you need. I should probably send my old 345 carb to him so I don't have to anti up the $165 for a new one again. Roger
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1,663 Posts
Roger - Thanks for that info . I can fix it myself if I could just replace the shaft and bushing . Just wondering if they (Deere) offer those pieces alone , as the bushing appears to be just pressed into the housing , and the shaft is removed easily as well. I may check with my local repair shop tomorrow and get them to check with the Kawasaki parts book . Dave
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153 Posts
Common problem on early GM Quadrajet carbs. My company purchased a drill/reamer/resizer/bushing kit some years ago. It paid for itself after the first two or three carb throttle bodies were saved.
I'm sure bushings and proper installation tools are available, just a matter of finding them. Like Roger said, I'd check with Carb Rescue, he may have the answer. If not, it sounds like he'd know where to find it........
I'm sure bushings and proper installation tools are available, just a matter of finding them. Like Roger said, I'd check with Carb Rescue, he may have the answer. If not, it sounds like he'd know where to find it........
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66 Posts
Fred, which late model carb (p/n) did you install? There appears to be 2 different ones on JDParts that use the fuel solenoid. I am currently doing a ring job on my 425 and may replace the carb while the engine is out of the tractor and apart.
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792 Posts
I have a '93 425 and I've been fighting this carb problem for years. I just happened to look at this thread and I'm glad I did. I wasn't sure if changing the carb would help, so I kept nursing the one I have. Now if I can get one as cheap as you did, I'll be happy!
Ah yes, another adventure begins!
Ah yes, another adventure begins!
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