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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello WFM experts...I bought a little 130 with a 9hp Kawasaki and bagger to use to cleanup the yard after de-thatching. (I have older 100, 200, and 300 series tractors to do the real work
The unit starts only with the throttle in the low-idle position. It won't pop at all with full choke. Once it starts at low idle I must let it run there for a while before I can gradually increase throttle. If I try to increase rpm's before it idles for a while, it will shut down. I have put (2) carbs on and the same problem occurs. Compression is at about 70 cold which is where I think it needs to be with the acr system. I have a new plug in and new fuel. Once it idles for a while, no problem increasing idle and power seems to be really good. I did adjust the valves a couple of times and they seem to be right on and the adjustments did not affect this situation. Any ideas why it is hard starting and will only fire with the throttle in idle position?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Roger..I was thinking same. I am happy to pop the $80 for it, but wish there were some readings I could get off it first to prove out it is bad first. Time to pull out the repair manual I guess. Are you thinking it's a weak spark?
 

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Yes weak spark that may get better as the engine warms up. You are finding why I fix everything myself except my 345 as the parts are way to expensive to throw at a tractor to see if they work. I have a 14SB push mower that did what you are describing and the ignitor fixed that. I do the normal maintenance items but when it gets more than that I have found it cheaper to talk to the dealership. You said you put a new spark plug in it. I am not a one brand is better than another brand guy but with Kawasakis I would stick with the factory recommended NGK. If you have another brand I would try the right plug first as it is cheaper. Roger
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for all of the advice. I did raise some info last night that will allow me to take and analyze ohm readings on the ignitor. I'll do that today. I agree with you regarding the complexities of the late model units. This is why most of my primary working tractors have K-Series Kohlers as they are so easy to work on. I let you know what I find out with ignitor and coil the testing later today.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi Roger....Bingo. I found a used ignitor at a local JD used parts place for $10.00. Absolutely fixed the issue. Tractor starts and runs like a top. Thanks for the help!
 

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Were the Peerless's all the same in the square fender tractors(68-72)? I am rebuilding a 71(265xxx) using the sm for 100xxx to do so.I get it all back together and everything rolls fine until I tighten even 1 bolt near the axle end of the case.Then its as tight as anything and won't turn at all
 

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Thanks Andrew,I thought they were,but wanted some reassurance. I did find the problem though,there was some dirt in the input shaft,once I took that out and cleaned it up it is working as intended now.
Thanks,
Grant
 

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Grant all the 4 speed transmissions will interchange. The parts that you would need to change depending on the year are the shift lever and possibly the brakes. That would be from 1965 to 1987 for JDs. Internally there were changes made over the 22 years JD used the Peerless 2300 series transmission. Roger
 

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I have a bad case of CRS but think I can add a sketchy comment that may help, or at least be a clue to the problem.
There was a change to the differential some where in the SF era trannys. The planet pinion carrier housing (pair), along with the pinion and "side gears" were different. Not to be confused with the limited slip that was available for a year or so.
The pinion gears and their mates have a heavier pitch profile (thicker) to make them stronger. The carrier housings have a different bolt pattern.
The complete differential will interchange but not all components can be mixed and matched. A number of years ago I swapped a complete differential from a 200 tranny into a '68 112. There was a slight measured difference in the overall stack up of carrier, needle bearings, and races between the two. Here's where the CRS kicks in. I can't remember if it bound up in assembly, as is your problem, or had too much end play. In the end the thrust washers, bearings, and races were reassembled to duplicate the original measurement of the '68 tranny. All was well after finding the difference.
Apparently your problem had nothing to do with this. Glad you got it fixed.

(edit) Forgot to mention the "upgrade" to the differential occurred during the later FF 100 series and probably carried over unchanged into the 200 series tractor. I really didn't dig into the 200 series to be sure.

tommyhawk
 

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Thanks guys,I rebuilt a whole transaxle to switch out with another transaxle,so I shouldn't have trouble that way,as long as it bolts up.

Roger that will be one thing to look at is the brake band,thanks

Tommyhawk CRS is setting in at my age*LOL* I'll keep that in the part of my head that don't forget

Edward I saw your pic on another post about a spacer,great idea! I should take pics as I rip apart stuff as my memory aint good (CRS ya know)
 

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Sorry Tom,yes,always new gaskets and seals
 

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Does anyone know off hand if the filler pipe that screws into the top of a 68 110 transaxle is the same size as the filler cap on a later model?
 

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Grant 1968 was the only year that a filler pipe as used. I suspect the plug used on later ones is the same but since I have never had a 1968 transmission I woudn't swear to that. If I recall correctly the plug it is a standard pipe fitting. Roger
 

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Thanks Roger,I'm hoping it is,so I can use it when I switch out transaxles
 

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The vent hole is the same size in all the JD gear drives that I have run into so far, including the 68 110 parts tractor I bought off Ebay for $78 with a roto-tiller mule drive under it. When the UV rays cook the cap it make a great place to fill the transaxle with Water.
 
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