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112 to 210 front lift rod

2349 Views 24 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  ed_lincoln
I got my 425 running on both Cylinders today, and we decided to try the 60in deck that came with it, it works great but a little noisy we greased the spindles and they seem to be free and tight, is there grease zerks on the idlers ??

Also does the 60 inch decks have sealed bearings???

Does someone have a manual for a 60in deck
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Yes to sealed bearings. I think the grease zerks are just there for marketing and to make you feel better. Roger
Yes Bunky - lots of people have a manual for a 60" deck. Grease zirk on the idler arm pivot only, the actual idler bearings are sealed with no fittings and are replaced with the pulley as an assembly unit. Dave
Really? I've been greasing every zerk I can find. It never occurred to me that they would have fake points.

From memory, I recall the three blade spindles which I believe you're talking about. The idler. There's also zerks on the three wheels which let you lube their axels. As I recall, there are three on the PTO shaft, 1 for sliding extension, and two for universal joints.

While I suspect John Deere doesn't, out of habit from my motorcycle days, I put a little bit of lithium on the PTO splines. I rationalize it might help reduce corrosion and make connect/disconnect a little easier.

What are your thoughts on the decks gear box? I had one gear box with 600 hours I was able to open and change out the oil. Another which has 1500 hours, I couldn't open. I suspect its never been opened. I'm still deciding whether I'll drill out the plug or just leave it alone until it fails ( if it fails). Hoping to get another 2000 hours on this deck, with a second engine.
Thanks for the replies after reading the responses I checked Ebay and they show the bearings for the 425 455 to be only sealed one side but the 420 430 sealed both sides. So I guess I'm not sure.

My deck is a 60HDand yes I noticed the Zerks on the shaft and wheels

As far as the gearbox I think I'm going to open mine and check the lube I have almost 2500 hours on my machine and I would hate to take a Chance on burning up the gear box.
I rebuilt my 54" deck spindles a few years ago. The spindles are center drilled and cross drilled for the grease to flow down and out the side of the spindle shaft, into the cavity between the bearings from the lube fitting on the top threaded end. The seals are placed to allow grease to flow from grease notches in the washers on top and bottom. By following the layout of the seal lips in the parts illustration, it shows how the grease would be allowed to come out through those special notches.

No fake fittings here, it's the real deal and, according to the manual, requires frequent lubrication. I use a handpump grease gun and give it grease until I hear it beginning to come out the bottom plate.

I resealed the gearbox and was able to purchase the seals and cup plugs but no other parts were listed as serviceable. The fill & drain plugs are threaded in the case.

Not sure about the 60" deck, it may be different.
Dave T - Iv'e found that those stubborn recessed hex plugs will come out easily if you use a hammer type impact screwdriver set up with the proper hex bit setup . Been doing it for years . The key is to klean it real good and fully seat the bit before whacking with the hammer. It will usually give good results if you know the proper technique with this particular tool tool. Trying to use just an Allen wrench usually proves to be futile , as it will more than likely bugger up the plug first , if it's never been removed before . Dave
Good point, Dave.......I've had similar experience with that tool. Good reminder about cleaning thoroughly, same with the Torx & Allen fittings. I stay away from my air guns around those, the hand impact driver is much safer.
The spindle bearings on my 1998 455's 60 deck are open on one side. Got my replacements from John Deere dealer and the replacements are also open on one side.

I like the hand impact driver idea. I think I'll give that a try next time I get the deck off.

Is it even possible to take the front lift rod off of a 112 manual lift and put it on a 210 with electric lift?
If the lift rod is the 3/8" rod type and not the 3/4" pipe it will fit. Some guys have bent the 3/4" type and made it work. These are the parts for the front lift rod 1973-1987 110-112 and 200 series.
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Thanks for the information. I have the 3/8" rod. Now I just need the time to swap the rod out.
I was wondering if anyone had a pdf file for making your own front lift rod like the rear lift one in the files?
Email your address and I will send a full size drawing in the mail.
I swapped my lift rod and now it won't hook up to my snowplow.I have the yoke on the lift stretched out as far as I can. Am I missing something else?
Dan it doesn't hook to the blade. You need the other parts in Eds picture for it to lift a blade. Roger
I have those and its still too short. I had them on the 112. Is there a different set that is required for a 210?
Did you make sure you lowered the lift fully (lever all the way forward with the dial on the side turned to the lowest setting)? Also, the end that attaches under the center of the tractor is slotted so make sure you pull the rod as far forward as you can. I've seen some of them rub and move kind of hard.
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