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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
While I'm saving to help sponsor Mike's 300 gas tank transfer to his 140, I thought I'd try and fit a 317 drive shaft. I knew it would be tight but I thought it might work. Well first off there is not enough room at the back. I hope Dominico P doesn't mind me borrowing one of his pictures (his are much better than any I could take).



The universal hits - how much can I enlarge the notch JD used for removing the spring pin? Might even need to remove some of the brace as shown by my little red line at the arrow.

Has anyone used a 317 drive shaft on a 140, if so how?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Over at the country store in his "The Big 10K...I post a lot!" post Mike mentioned he wanted to put a gas tank under the seat of his 140. I asked him how long before he'd tell us how to. He said if anyone would help sponsor the project he would write it up. I'm on SS and don't have a lot of extra cash but I'd really like to see how to do this. Mike is a very smart engineer and does excellent write ups of his work. So, where's the bucket (for sending sponsorship)?
 

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Brother has done a couple gas tanks under the fenders on 140's. He used my spare 332 frame fender pan mounts welded to the frame for one. Then-you basically just need the tank. I plan on doing that for the articulated 140 since it was first build using the small tank as well as both rearends are junk. Brother and I each have a 317 we are donating the rearends to that tractor. My winter project for my new shop.
 

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Almost done closing a deal on a complete 300 minus hood, side panels and an in tact transmission input shaft....SUPER 140 anyone?
 

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Since my acquiring a 140, the small gas tank is my only small peeve. Space is limited on them for sure. Looking at the amount of space there is to put one, creatively, one would have to be very creative. Building a tank for under the seat (remove the springs) would not be difficult to fabricate. Under the fender pan, hmmm, something to ponder. There's no space. Unless the tank(s) are made to fit -under- the fenders and hanging off the frame. Then a cross-tube from side-to-side would be needed to have the ability of filling both tanks through a single fill spout.

I'd be curious to see pictures of the fabrication.

The more I think about the 140 having a bigger fuel tank, the more my thoughts go in direction of having a gel cell battery under the seat and between the springs. Once the standard battery is moved from the engine compartment there would enough room to have/build nearly a four gallon+ tank. One could (fairly easily) cut the back side of a stock tank and build/expand that into the space of where the battery was.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Dominico P
The 100 series (including the 140) had the gas tank under the hood. With the 200 series the gas tank was moved "under the seat". The gas tank sits on the frame and is covered by the fender pan and seat. This was continued for the 300 and 400 series of the pre 1992 models.
 

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I believe I will be getting the 300 tomorrow (in the monsoon) I will definitely start a thread on the under seat fuel tank conversion! I know I personally have never seen in real life, or even pictures one, there was some talk of someone doing it earlier this year but they never posted picts.
 

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Mike, I'm looking forward to your gas tank project. I've thought about it for a while now, but never seem to have the time to tackle it. I will have to admit though, that by the time my 140 tank is dry, so am I.

Steve
 

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The 140 articulated has been built already by someone else. But it isn't even a show queen right now. The rearends are junk and when they were sort of working they weren't matching the speeds of eachother. Brother and I each have a parts 317 that will be donating things like the rearends to the 140 so it can at least pull something vs sit on a trailer. That is going to be one of many winter projects. It has a 2 cyl yanmar diesel in it as well-that now doesn't start either.

I would have to look but I am sure my brother put the tank under his 140 fender pan. It has been down for a few years with a broken crank and he already had the 330 so he never fixed it. And he did it to another friends 140. I haven't looked up close to any of them-but I will this year. After the articulated is done then there is a Pink/white 140 to put a trike front end on and a tracked 140 with ARPS trencher to repair and re-design as well. It doesn't have enough power to turn-so I need to do something to it other then use brakes to turn it.
 

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Thought the 2 cylinder was in the tracked 140 and the 140 was chopped up to fit a 3 cylinder with a little dinky radiator?
 

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Yep-you are right now that I remember.
 

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Back on topic, why do you want to put a 317 shaft in? They are non serviceable and non greaseable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
When Gerry Reno was repowering his 140 with a 23 HP Vanguard there was some discussion about tilting the engine to align the drive shaft. I asked about using a 317 shaft. He decided to use the 140 - his was an early model that had a clutch. Since then I have acquired a 73 140 sans engine and front of drive shaft. I have a good 317 drive shaft and want "to make it work" for my 140. I know it is non serviceable and non greaseable but it is paid for and should work for a while. At least long enough to prove to me that it will (or not) work.

I also have a 317 gas tank and fender pan that I hope is close enough to your 300 that I can try that too. My 140 is a H-1 that I would like to be a H-3 or I might settle for a H-2. Power Steering? I dream a lot.
 

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Power steering would be the cats meow. I may get there some day....

I put a 317 shaft on a 316K when I repowered it with a Kohler Command.

I found a very nice one that was tight.

Only owned the tractor for about a year before selling it.
 
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