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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
These 140s seems to have their share of charging problems. I have read multiple threads on the subject and have tried to follow the advice I have read. So here is what I did.

I checked the stator by measuring AC voltage at the 2 outside wires going into the regulator (with those wires removed from the plug). I only get rapidly changing numbers on my digital meter so do not know the stator's output voltage. Maybe it's my cheap meter. I do get continuity when measuring between those 2 wires and I get no continuity between each of those and ground so I was guessing stator was OK.

So I started checking continuity on wires to the ignition switch, the ammeter and the solenoid. I cleaned contacts, tightened some and fixed one that was about 1/3 broken.

It wouldn't even try to start until I wiggled the 2 wires going to the ammeter then roared to life. I tightened up those push-on connectors.

Then when I started it and reved it up , for the first time I saw the ammeter pointing to the white or charging side so I must have improved matter some. I think I was able to reduce the charging wiring resistance some with those measures.

The needle only goes slightly into the white/charging side. Should it point more dramatically into charging or is anything in that direction enough? I guess I'll find out. I do have a handy little "battery maintainer" trickle charger to help it out if need be.

I'm thinking a new wiring harness would help a lot. In looking at the wiring I found a lot of little areas where the insulation is worn off the wires. What guage are most of the wires not counting the big battery and starter cables?
 

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Chuck, bad connections are the biggest problem with any of these tractors. I re-do the wiring in all of mine when I buy one.
The amp meter should go to the charge side only when it needs a charge. As the battery becomes fully charged it will run closer to center.
You should get about 14 volts across the battery when running at high throttle.
When I re-wire mine, I use 14 gauge for all the wires.
Below is a picture of the 112 I'm doing right now. The only wire not present is the coil wire. It pays to do them over.
 

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73-74 140 H3, 54 Blade, 49 Snow Thrower
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Chuck,

I just completed making a new wiring harness for mine. I used 14 ga. primary wire for everything. My old harness was in really bad shape, with melted connectors, frayed wires and worn insulation. The battery cables (not shown below) I ordered from my local JD dealer, the price was fair and they are a heavier gauge than my original ones.


 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Roy & Mike,
Nice looking wiring and the nice new green paint just sets it off! Mine is a lot scruffier.

I saw an original JD harness for my tractor for sale on eBay and was planning to bid fairly high to get it. I suspect you guys would say to go ahead and make my own.

I was looking at a site that specializes in automotive electrical wiring (waytek.com) and they sell different colored wires by the foot as well as many connectors. Anyone worked with them?

Don't you worry about the exposed posts behind the ammeter? But I suppose the big posts at the solenoid are uncovered too.

Do you recommend replacing the ignition and PTO switches with the wiring or use the old ones if they still function?
 

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73-74 140 H3, 54 Blade, 49 Snow Thrower
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Chuck,

I looked at Waytek.com when I was trying to decide on where to buy my materials for the harness. As I recall their minimum order quantity drove the price for just one harness way too high. I went to my local auto parts store (not a national chain) and they had 80% of what I needed in stock. The connector blocks I bought on line at Keefe Performance. The other option if you don't want to make it yourself is Agri-Services. Jim will make you a harness for your tractor. He quoted me $129.00 not including the headlight harness. At first it seemed high, but once you add the cost of all the materials up and your time, it then becomes a reasonable price. I have never purchased from them before, but others on the forum have and were pleased. I don't factor my time into this project because I enjoy doing it. I also could'nt afford to hire me either!
 

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Removed the dull blades on my X720 54" deck and all three are worn more on one end than the other. I've never seen this happen on blades before on this or other machines I've owned. The wear difference was as much as 1/2" in width. Has anyone had this experience, or know what caused it? I took some pics but have to remember how to resize them in order to post here.
 
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