[LeonardS]

If you recall, my 140 I purchased had been towed so the hydro pump was ruined. I purchased a used pump from a 300 and want to go through it before installing it. Where can I find some good information on repair/replacement of parts on these hydrostats. Since its already loose I figure now is the time to replace any worn parts or leaking seals.

Leonard

 

[jdcrazy]

Try this
http://www.wfmfiles.com/download/Tecumseh-Peerless_Motion_Drive_System_-_Transmissions_&_Differentials(691218).pdf

 

[LeonardS]

Any idea what pages the info is on regarding the hydro unit in our 140? My Serial number is 53000+.

Leonard

 

[samcarpen]

Leonard,

You need to obtain a service manual for your 140. Deerely Departed sells them for $22.50 plus shipping.

http://www.deerelydeparted.com/p-593-service-manual-for-john-deere-140-hydrostatic-lawn-and-garden.aspx

Pay special attention to removing and re-assembling the motor and pump blocks.

Sam

 

[LeonardS]

Thanks Sam! I have it and have the pump apart. The pistons don't have any grooves but they do have what I would call dark stains on a few. Maybe from sitting?? They seem to operate smoothly in the bores. The pin in the front pump was broken, but nothing seems stuck or frozen?

Leonard

 

[greenbaycolors]

Hey fellas
I've had limited time to work on my 140 tranny but am still stumped as to the problems I'm experiencing. The service manual would be great to have although the one that Deerely Daparted sells is for the serial number 30,000 and up. My 140 H3 is a 68' a 2,8xx serial# Anyone know where I can get a manual. Seems I might be pulling this tranny out and doing an overhaul. There goes the budget for this tractor. Please help me!!! Eric

 

[david_a_calkins]

Eric ,not sure if the cub cadet and john deere are the same ,they look the same ,i have rebuilt a few of the cubs ,and there no big deal .if you have the time ,i got my manuals from binder books .just do a google ,and they will come up ,the manual was $19.95 +shipping $6.00 .and they are in Oregon .hope this helps . David

 

[wyogreen]

Eric,
I was just on Deerely Departed and they had both manuals. I needed the higher SN one, but they also had the lower SN manual.
Steve

 

[greenbaycolors]

Just did a post again couple of days ago "HELP 140 68' serial# 28xx" and found my oversight to the manuals finally. I hope I don't find any big surprises when opening the pump. Good luck leonard. E.

 

[LeonardS]

Eric, I have my pump back together. Now I won't know if it works until the rest of the 140 is restored.

Leonard

 

[greenbaycolors]

Leonard
How was it working on the hydro. Plenty of parts to sort out and keep track of I bet. First time for me on a hydrogear. Not sure what to expect. Need plenty of room for laying out for disassembly. well I'll find out here shortly after getting the manual. Have fun restoring the rest of the 140. I posted a pic of mine today take a look. 1968 140 H3

 

[LeonardS]

Eric, be very, very careful when you take the piston pumps out. It is difficult to keep the pistons in their bores while removing the pumps. Move very slowly during this step to keep the pistons in their original bores. Other than that it was not difficult to work on. Remove your seals carefully and take them to a bearing/seal shop to purchase replacements. Deere is crazy with their seal prices, for example the front and rear seal where the driveshaft goes in and the fan comes out. $19.50 at my local Deere Dealer and $3.15 from the bearing shop!!

Leonard

 

[kcu320]

i have been a WFM member for a while and haven't submitted a post before.I thought I would start to post to share info and take advantage of the great wealth of experience from the members.

I just bought a 1997 JD GT275. No hood and the PO said a valve was sticking which caused it to smoke. Should I spray/soak/treat the fuel or direct spray by removing the valve cover? I don't want to try to start it without somehow addressing the sticking valve.

I will post pictures shortly. Came with a 48" deck. I have the "near-sister" JD Sabre 2354 but is has a 23 hp Kohler twin...all else looks mostly the same (different transaxle too).

Any advice on how I can treat the valve? Thanks, in advance, for your help!

Kev

 

[tommyhawk]

Kevin, we gotta ask some questions about your new purchase. First, did you see and hear it run? If so, did it smoke a lot on start up then settle down to no smoke? Or,did it smoke a lot and keep on doing it?
Was it missing, popping, making any clattery noises?
If it seemed to run pretty well but just smoked some, it is not likely to be a sticking valve. Be sure to check the oil level, and smell the dipstick oil for possible gasoline odor. If it's overfull on oil or diluted with gas, it will smoke. Also if it was parked on a down hill (nose down) for a long period, the muffler could have a bunch of engine oil in it.
It's very easy to take the spark plug out, remove the valve cover, rotate the engine by hand to watch the valve train work. Probably needs the valve lash checked / adjusted anyway.
That Kawasaki single is a very reliable engine, but I have found the rings worn out in one that didn't seem to have been abused or have a lot of hours on it. Don't know if it ever had the first oil change as it was a used machine my friend got with a house he bought. Ring job cured it.
Let us know how it goes.

tommyhawk

 

[kcu320]

Thank you, Tommyhawk, for your reply and suggestions. I bought it at a salvage yard mainly for the transaxle and good body. I
When I got it home I put air to the tires and rolled it into the garage. I connected the battery charger to it and it read full charge. I turned the key to the first click to check dashboard. It lit up. I turned key a little more to engage stater and nothing. There must be a short somewhere; I.e. A kill switch. I was siting in the seat and had the brake pushed in.
I'll have to take the multi-meter to it.
In the meantime, I will check all the fluids, spark plug, connections, etc.

I made a great contact today at the salvage yard. He was the owner. So many toys at the yard to include several John Deere riders. I had to buy the GT275. It was his rider and he provided the back story on it.

Good, bad, or not, I got a nice 48" deck out of it with the tractor for $130.

I'll update after checking it over. Thank you for the advice.

 

[tommyhawk]

You surely did get a buy on that one Kevin. A good deck is brings more than that around here! The deck design is used on other Deeres and in my opinion the best they made so far.
A GT275 is a good unit. The 17HP single normally can run many, many hours with little more than regular oil and filter changes. It is a bit noisy with that single big old piston. Very fuel efficient.

Once you get the electrical system squared away so it will start, you will be in a better position to analyze the engine. Just make sure the oil isn't contaminated with gasoline before the first start. It may turn into something you want to use.
Good find!

tommyhawk