[scotsjohndeeres]

My pto on my 74 140 was making a lot of noise and now that I am done with the majority of my tilling I opted to tear into it. I found that the fan was rubbing on the shield, the knuckle was wobbling and the noise was coming from all that.
I started disassembly, the joints were ok, the fan is ok, the problem was where the "collar" is slid on the tail shaft of the transmission/pump. It fits on there "ok" not a super tight fit but not falling off either. I drove out the roll pin which looked original, and the slop was in the shaft, not the coupling. The roll pin besides being a little dirty/rusty is like new. The hole in the shaft is wobbled out. I would say a person could turn the shaft from 1 to 3 +/- o'clock easily in the slop.
Seems odd to me but anyway...

What do you think is the best way to fix this? Oversize the roll pin and drill out the coupling?
Or?
I am not in a hurry but I would like this to last another 40+ years if possible.
Thanks
--Scot

Part in question is #25 in picture. Tail shaft not shown.

 

[littlejd]

Scot
Could the shaft coming thru the hydro have a bad output bearing?
Do you have machine work capabilites?

If I was doing it I would bore the #25 and put a slug in it weld the new piece in and machine it to the bore you need. You could weld the roll pin hole up also and/or relocate the position of it.

Should be a pretty simple fix if you have the tools. Is #25 a cast piece or steel?

 

[scotsjohndeeres]

#25 is cast. It is all ok. The shaft on the output is what is the problem I guess. I felt it and it is not a bad bearing there, and the rear bearing on the pto is fine. I think the shake and shimmy was from the wobble in the shaft where the roll pin goes through it. I am thinking even if I make a fix on #25 as you say, it is not going to fix the problem. The hole, in the shaft on the tranny is wobbled out and I am not sure I can drill it too much bigger(weaken it) than it is already..(????) I guess what I am trying to say is the hole, in the shaft is now larger by far than the hole in part #25. And I think that is where the play and wobble are coming from.
When I get home tonite from work I will try and get a picture of it, maybe it will make a bit more sense then. Thanks.
--Scot

 

[littlejd]

I re read the initial post and sorry I mis interpretated it. That shaft is extremely hard and drilling it oversize may not be an option but rather replace it.
It's easy to do and you can do it in probably an 1hr.
If drilling #25 oversize I really don't think that will solve the slop from the shaft but rather deter the problem till later when you really need it.

Keep us posted on what you do

 

[scotsjohndeeres]

Any idea on the part number for the tail shaft?
I am going to fix it right the first time I guess.
--Scot

 

[littlejd]

M44676 and is NLA

I would post a wanted add here as I'm sure someone has a parts tractor.
Not sure if this would be the same as a 317 or such as the serial number is what will really determine what can work

 

[scotsjohndeeres]

Thanks Romeo.

Working on it.

 

[vibroluxe]

Scot - My 140 suffers from the same problem. If you do tear into it and fix it could you take some pics & post 'em? If it doesn't look too scary, I might try it myself some day...

Thanks - John

 

[littlejd]

John
Replacing that shaft through the hydro is relatively simple to do. It scared me to do my 318's as at the time was my only mowing ready tractor. With the help of a couple members here and having the service manual helped tremendously.

Don't be affraid of it, it's really pretty simple once you crack the case open.

Someone did exactly the same thing a few years back but I can't find the thread anymore.

 

[scotsjohndeeres]

OK
I got it fixed. I had the tail shaft polished up, by hand to take the burr off. I drilled out the roll pin hole to make it 5/16" and the same for the yoke(#25). I drilled out the pin hole to 5/16" there also and to make it more secure, just for kicks, I put in 2 small set screws just offset from the holes...at about 1 o'clock and 7 o'clock. I put it back on and it is amazing how snug it is.
Now mine was wobbled out, but just the roll pin hole, not the yoke or the shaft..just a little worn. So this may not apply to all who have an issue.
I did get pictures and I will post them tomorrow after I get the rest back together.
Thanks for all the input and advice.
--Scot

 

[scotsjohndeeres]

Well tonight I got it all back together and it works perfect. No shake, no rattle, no flying parts..whew!
I will show some of the pics, not all are the best to see but if you read the past posts you will understand what I did.

the above picture is suppose to show the set screws. the roll pin is still the safety, but the set screws help to hold it more in line.

JD=job done.

 

[inspired_metal]

An old neighbor dropped off his RER SX75 and asked if I could put on a new drive belt for him. It looks like I need to either remove the engine or rear end as well as the deck (just to get more room). JD parts shows the primary, secondary and a deck belt but thats all I can figure out so far. Have any of you done a primary or secondary drive belt before and can lead me down the wisest path?

Thanks ahead of time.
Dom