[Mrcaptainbob]

As I'm getting ready to reassemble the K301 (questions on THAT to follow!) I have a question about the regulator. The 140 was not charging at the time that I removed the engine. Some time in it's history there was much 're'wiring done. The amp gage wasn't connected, a ground pigtail was left on the sheet metal, etc. I finessed the harness according to the schematic and hope it'll be fine. What I'd like to know is what should I expect from the center pin on the regulator? (Assuming the engine will work!) How many volts should come from that?

 

[stanb112]

Bob, the regulator needs to be connected to the battery through the normal wiring. To check it measure the voltage at the battery (+) post with the engine off, then start the engine and measure it again. With the engine at 3/4 throttle the battery voltage should be higher and slowly increasing. If the voltage does not change, or is slightly lower the problem could be the regulartor, alternator (stator) or associated wiring. First thing to check is the connectors in the engine wiring harness, at the regulator and at the ignition switck. With lights and PTO off the voltage at the battery and at the center connector of the regulator should go up to around 13.6 volts if the charging system is working properly. If the center connector shows the same voltage as the battery then the system is not working.

(Message edited by stanb112 on November 13, 2005)

(Message edited by stanb112 on November 13, 2005)

 

[Mrcaptainbob]

Thanks, Stan. Will check that soon....

 

[kb9r]

Good evening,

I have a 1968 140 H3 that also has a charging problem. It has a Repco regulator that apparently got wet and corroded the circuitry. I think I have that repaired.

Here are my questions:

1. What size fuse (amperage) it needs. Fuse appears to be in series with the center or DC out terminal.

2. Does this look like the correct regulator for this tractor?

Thanks!

Joe in Wisconsin

}

(Message edited by kkortman112 on December 17, 2005)

 

[stanb112]

That is the correct regulator for 140's below s/n 30,000. The fuse should be a SFE14. It's purpose is to protect the regulator in case of reverse polarity.

 

[kb9r]

Thanks a million Stan,

The fuse did not show up in my parts manual.

Joe

 

[aarong]

Well, the old L-head Briggs in my 111H needs replaced. Since the l-head is going the way of the dinosaur, I've been looking at some sort of OHV engine. I'm wanting to keep it looking stock as much as possible. Not sure how to address the muffler and fit issue. Anybody have any pics of a successful repower with OHV style engine?

 

[T-Mo]

Moved to it's own separate thread.

 

[lotsojunk]

Aaron, I installed a 18 hp Briggs Vangaurd in a 111H a couple of years ago. Used the muffler that came with the engine from Jim's Repair. Had to cut a little bit of the hood to make it fit. I have some pictures somewhere and will try to post in a couple days.

 

[miraclegro]

Aaron I have a 111 I repowered a few years ago with a 14.5hp fc420v kawasaki. The engine came from a lx176. It dropped in the frame with no modifications. I used the electric clutch and pulleys from the 111 b/s engine. I used the pipe part of the lx176 muffler (cut off at the top of the muffler) I brazed a 90 degree threaded elbow on to the pipe and screwed in a b/s muffler made for a snapper. It doesnt sound like a kawasaki but everything works. I used the wiring harness from the lx176 as well including the key switch with the exception of retaining the 111 pto switch it had to be moved to the other side of the console due to the large size of the circuit board on the back of the key switch. The lx and stx mowers are a dime a dozen and fairly cheap around here. Most have been scraped due to broken hoods and the owners refused to pay so much for a new hood and just bought new mowers instead.