Weekend Freedom Machines banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Banned
Joined
·
38 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know this has been talked about before but at the time I did not need to know the answer now I do.
I have a 140 with a sleeve hitch and also a 33 tiller. The arm that I am using with the sleeve hitch has a is a flat kind of strap with a bend in the middle. It also has elongated holes on the back end. I think this is the lift bar that goes with the 33 tiller and I need the one that goes with the sleeve hitch. My question is if I do need another rod is it something I can make or do I need to try and find one. If I can make it how long should it be and does it need the elongated holes in the end?
eddie
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
123 Posts
Eddie If I understand what your describing you do have the lift bar for the tiller. The lift bar for the hitch has a clevis on the end of threaded rod on much the came bar with a bend on it. The bar on the top of the picture is for the 33 tiller, and the bar on the bottom is for the intergal hitch. You may be able to use the tiller bar for the hitch but I do know that my hitch bar is a little longer in length when I got it adjusted correctly. Also the pin for the hitch is quite a bit bigger around. Hope this helps, if you need anything else just give a shout. Farley
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
38 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Farley, looks like just what I was asking about. Now I just need to find or make one. Might be easier just to make one but may try posting a looking to buy add just to see what I can come up with. Thinks for your help.
eddie
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,675 Posts
Keith welcome to WFM. Basically it is a plastic that isn't really repairable. I have a friend who used a back up metal on his and a whole lot of pop rivets. It is functional but doesn't look very good. As far as I know the only way to make it look good again it to buy a new one. I am sure you didn't want to hear that but that is sort of the facts. Roger
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
280 Posts
It is amazing that such a "world class" company could make such incredible products, and stick on a hood made of a mystery plastic that shatters from normal use, isn't it? When I say a mystery plastic, that is just what I mean. Go to any JD Dealer anywhere and ask them what kind of plastic it is, and no one can tell you. Ask therefore what kind of glue might mend this mystery plastic and again no one can tell you. I had a heapy-cheapy Huskee tractor once that had a plastic hood, only it was made of a kind of plastic that you could drive golf balls against and not hurt it (flexible vinyl?). And it is bad enough that they are made of this type of plastic, but the hinges are molded in and therefore are not only plastic, but are made pathetically weak--especially so in that particular area. No one on planet earth could have designed anything so weak and guaranteed to break if you so much as look at it funny.
I will submit this: I have had limited success in fixing some breaks in these hoods by reinforcing along the cracks with sheet metal and JB Weld, but it proved to be a tedious and time consuming endeavor. It did look somewhat better after I spent all that time on it.
Advice for anyone owning a JD with those plastic hoods: I use a strap that I tie onto the back of the top part of the hood and tie the other end to the dash area which limits the travel of the hood so it won't open to the limits of the hinges' travel. I also remove the little black plastic keepers that engage the back of the hood when it is closed. They only serve to make the hood latch so positively that just the act of pulling the hood open will cause it to split. And NEVER open the hood by inserting your fingers in the slot on top that is made to grab an pull open the hood with and pulling up on it--sooner or later it will split right down the middle. I always grab both sides from underneath to raise the hood. Generally you must treat your beautiful JD hood like it was made of the same stuff as a suger cone. Too bad it isn't because then at least when it breaks to pieces you could eat it.
Oh yeah, don't embarass yourself by submitting a want ad for a good used hood. You have a better chance of winning the state lottery. I DID find a perfect used hood one time (on an LX 172). The tractor was sitting under a tree out in the open in the middle of winter. The rear tire was not only flat, but half off of the rim. The seat appeared to have been chewed up by a goat. Literally everything was rusty, rotten, broken, scarred or beat up on this thing--EXCEPT the hood.
I offered the guy $300 on the spot just to get the hood. He was not interested. It was his trusty lawn mower.
Unfortunately, it sounds like I am too late for you. Yours must already be busted. Hope this helps for the future at least...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
223 Posts
I see back in November of 2012 Bret Hart mentioned a plastic weld kit from Northern Tools. Has anyone tried using cyanoacrylate with some additional backing reinforcement? I have a 455 and I just discovered a hairline crack in the side panel just above the footrest. Right now the screen seems to be holding it together but I don't want to let it go.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
765 Posts
I was just at my local Deere dealer looking at a used X500. The Hood had a crack right in the middle , right where you pull on it about 5-6in long..... I ask him Why Does Deere Keep putting the Plastic hoods on there stuff, He didn't know. He had wonder that himself for the last few years too! BTY, They where asking 3200.00 for the 08 X500, Got them down to 2900.00 it had 474 hours on it..... It looked rough, But Sales man said it was good mower..... I ask him about fixing the hood---NO Can't do that!!
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top