Have you checked the belting rout for bad spindles, or idler pullies?
Did you check your seat switch?
Did you check your seat switch?
Yes we checked that first, the seat switch we put in new today, that isn't the problem,Have you checked the belting rout for bad spindles, or idler pullies?
Did you check your seat switch?
No it was not the seat switch.Sounds like the usual seat switch wire problem
We were mowing with it just fine and it quit, now we have this problem, the belts are fine and the pullies and spindles are good.Have you checked the belting rout for bad spindles, or idler pullies?
Did you check your seat switch?
Did you check the wiring from the switch? Even if the switch is new there could be a broken wire.Yes we checked that first, the seat switch we put in new today, that isn't the problem,
Do you have a diagram of any of this that could help me?Ret,
Yes, a correctly working seat safety circuit is the only thing keeping the spark enabled once you take the ground speed lever out of neutral, turn on a PTO or release the parking brake. The seat safety circuit is as follows: The fuse F2 feeds voltage from the key switch in the RUN and START positions to the seat switch -- which when the seat is occupied feeds this voltage on to the TDCM X22 pin 9. If you do not have 12 volts at that pin 9 on the TDCM then the switch harness or the fuse is the issue (you state the switch itself is OK...)
Since it stopped when you were mowing, the fuse, its holder and the harness are the most likely root causes of this loss of spark under the conditions you describe...
Chuck
Here is the wiring excerpt, and a text description of all the inputs and conditions of a normal TDCM when working properly...
View attachment 292422
View attachment 292423
Chuck
Thank you so much, I so appreciate itDo you have a diagram of any of this that could help me?