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1967 Model 60 Restoration

3472 Views 12 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  Amanteyzapata
I just picked up what I believe is a complete 1967 model 60 lawn tractor and mower deck in Niles OH. I will be restoring this tractor as I have time and will post progress pictures - probably pretty slowly. The seller said 12 people responded to the CL add within the first hour of it's posting. I don't know how I managed it, but I was the first (luck I guess). For the curious, did any WFM members try for this tractor (CL Youngstown, OH on 04/08/2010)?

Also, I saw a post in these forums from someone in the Pittsburgh area who just acquired within the last week a model 60 with the same story of history that the seller gave me. The seller took this one on trade in the last day or two. I was wondering if it may be the same tractor and whether that previous owner may have any useful information about it.

The VH60 engine does not run but turns over when I pull the rope gently. It has electric start but I have not tried it. The seller said there is no spark. I don't even have it unloaded from the truck yet.

Pictures coming soon!
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Youll love it my 60 is my fav. to just ride around on. Hope you have the orginal iron engine.Mines aluminium.
I pulled the engine and degreased everything above and below. Scrubbed the thickest gunkiest crud off i ever seen with an old windshield brush and an old toothbrush. Only had to hose off the back portion. I found a sticking cutoff switch on the brake pedal which may be why there was no spark to start. I flicked it a few dozen times and now it springs forward with the brake. Need to check continuity with the switch on. Does the battery need hooked up to use the pull handle start? I assume the key has to be on. Is there a way to check whether the rectifier is good? The fuse looks OK. Looks like the PO used pliers to tighten the spark plug. Also looks like the pin holding the brake pedal on the shaft was replaced. There are some weird gouges in the shaft around it. The deck does not appear to have any holes or deeply rusted areas. Some minor pitting. No welds or other repairs. Original deck wheels. The seat back needs welded. The cushion went into the trash (yuck!). There is a small crack in the center front of the hood. What amazes me is all the pulleys and springs and stuff underneath are hardly rusty.
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Great looking tractor, I saw one in worse shape sell for over 250.00 at an auction recently. I have as much fun fooling with my 60 and 70 as I do with my larger tractor. Keep us posted as it progresses.
I finished cleaning the engine up and mounted it back in today. My next step is to get spark. Does anyone have any suggestions to try before pulling the fly wheel? I'm using the pull rope. No battery installed. Is there something I should do with the wiring if I don't have a battery in it?
mine has alot of compression i need a fully charged battery or a good couple of arms to pull start it. is a fuse that you'll have to check and there is a safty switch for the PTO
Remove spark plug and spin engine with electric starter to see if there is spark. No spark will require lifting magneto (flywheel) and installing points and condensor.
I tightened all my wiring. One wire on the left of the diodes is badly frayed and just a few strands are still connected, but connected none the less. Pulled the plug and grounded the threads. I hooked my jumper cables to my 316 battery and turned the key. The starter turned and the engine puffed out the spark plug hole. I have a nice blue spark. Made the usual ticking sound too. I put the plug back in and squirted a snort of starting fluid in the air intake and turned the key with the throttle up. With the plug in it sounded like the starter was really struggling and very slow. After 20 or so turnovers it quit turning. All I saw was whitish vapor coming out the muffler and I think it was the starting fluid. It did not fire. So, I have spark but it won't fire on starting fluid. I also can't get the starter to turn now. The solenoid clunks when I turn the key. The starter was warm to the touch but not hot. I am not an engine expert, so looking for suggestions.
if that old engine runs i would have to say to try to keep the oil changed every time it starts going black. i heard they stoped making parts for these and the kohler engines because of the EPA

Keep going. The parts for these engines are still available. Perhaps not freely available but nonetheless available. I have just ordered parts for a V60 and a V70 which are just the aluminium versions of your iron block (H-heavy duty) VH60. I got the parts numbers (oversize piston and rings) from an expert on justanswer.com and ordered the parts from m-and-d.com. I would soak the carb in carb cleaner and blow it clean. Check the points and replace if necessary, then check the wiring all the way for obvious damage or frayed situations. If you have solid spark the question will be if you are getting it at the right time. Unless someone has messed around, it is unlikely that the timing has been disturbed. With the right quantity of fuel it should then run.
Sorry to follow an old post but Bryce, or anyone, can you please post close up pics (or email at [email protected]) of the governor linkage area? Mine on my Deere 60 disintegrated from rust last Fall. I was going to replace but waited too long. Now I don't know what it looks like. Individual parts appear to be on Ebay regularly. Thanks, -Joseph
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