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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have started doing cleanup on my 1967 RF 112 s/n T2314009442
Model:112
Typecode:T2314
Serial Number:9442
Model Year:1967
Engine Model and Size:HH100 Tecumseh 10HP
Lift Type:Manual
Paint:Green/Yellow
Manufactured Location:Horicon, WI

The cab has been removed and sold to a WFM member. He has cleaned it up and installed on this tractor. Thank you.

The condition of tractor shows it is high hour. It was mechanically maintained but now is in dire need of clean up and TLC to get it back into condition of a reliable general purpose tractor. For now I am not planning on a full restoration but just getting into reliable condition to sell the unit. Tractor will include mower deck and snow thrower.
  • First issue I need to clean up is the s/n of the tractor. I am finding many discrepancies on this tractor that do not agree with with John Deere Service Manual 110 and 112 Lawn and Garden Tractors (Serial No. -100,000) SM-2059-(Apr-67).
  • The tractor is extremely greasy on the underside and needs a complete underside power wash.
  • Tractor was repainted by PO and is in need of cleanup and another repaint. I am cleaning up and repainting areas that I am working on so will still look kind of rough when finished.
  • During some preliminary work it was found the spacer used to set motor-generator belt tension was missing so that is where clean up work is beginning.
    • Removed battery box (includes fuel tank) and motor - generator. All associated parts will be repainted before re-installing.
    • Missing spacer was laying on a shelf on rear of engine.
    • This is a good time to mention a PO had done some work on the steering but seems like it was never completed.
      • New ball joints and yokes were installed but remounting of the Ross gearbox was left uncompleted. The gearbox was not bolted to the frame, the hardware securing the pin that engages the steering shaft was loose as was the drag link ball joint to lever arm nut.
      • I installed new hardware to mount the gearbox to the frame.
      • Removed plug on bottom of gearbox and installed bearing and cup from another gearbox I had rebuilt.
      • Adjusted torque on bottom plug, adjusted cross bolt to set steering adjusted and torques all hardware.
      • Steering improved from almost a full rotation of steering wheel free play to about a 1/3 rotation.
      • For full restoration the steering gearbox will need to be removed and full rebuild. There is steering wheel shaft movement inside the tube plus there is axial and radial movement of the steering arm on mounting hardware.
      • For now steering work is completed.
    • To put it nicely without being offensive someone butchered the wiring harness. An attempt was made repair with crimped on "scotch-lock connectors"; most of these connectors have separated. I will be restoring the original harness with correct Packard connectors but some wires will not be color coded properly as parts of the harness have been cut out and rewired to to bypass safety switches. This will be corrected.
This part of project needs completion to get tractor to start and run. Work is in process. I will include some photos but camera is in garage right now ... Gabby
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Today I cleaned up the motor-generator and took it into repair shop to replace noisy bearings. Requested brushes replaced as long as they are in there and then test output to insure it is in spec.

Went to my local Deere dealership. They keep an ample supply and variety of Packard electrical connectors. I now have parts to repair wiring harness.

Removed tins from engine to clean up the fins and repaint tins.

I need to remove snow blower to proceed with cleanup on front of tractor.

Here are some photos to look at.

BTW ... Engine is a Tecumseh HH100-115034A. I have read repair parts can to hard to find for this model and it is acceptable to use parts from model 115000C. Has anyone else had this issue?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Wally.
 

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This should be a fun follow.
 

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Following also since my 112 is a '67 also.
 

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Hey Kevin where do you get those wire connectors and do they have specific part numbers or names. Thinking of redoing a wire harness or two and looking for cost effective alternatives.
 

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Not sure on the differences on those Tecumsehs either, so be sure to pass on any information for those of us yet to delve into ours.

FYI, one of these days if winter ever shows up here in Central PA, I’ll get the windshield installed in that cab and be ready to go although I think I’ll have to figure something out for heat to keep down on the windows fogging.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Hey Kevin where do you get those wire connectors and do they have specific part numbers or names. Thinking of redoing a wire harness or two and looking for cost effective alternatives.
Connectors are Packard series 56 manufactured by Delphi. They are close to original. I like these connectors for multiple reasons..

  • The crimp of the terminal to the wire is more positive and I don't have a problem with separation.
  • After the terminals are snapped into the connector they can be removed like original by using a small screwdriver to release the tang and pulling the terminal from the connector. The 5-way connector on 3XX ignition switches have a tendency to melt over time and cause connection problems. I have repaired this problem by simply removing the terminals, wire brushing the terminals, and reinstalling in a new connector.
  • Reassemble by simply snapping the terminal back into the connector.
  • The series 56 has a more positive lock between the male and female connectors.
  • They have John Deere part numbers and are available at Deere Dealerships. My dealer is a Ag dealer and these connectors are used on many agricultural machines. Lawn and Garden dealers may not stock them.
  • Dealer price is equivalent to online without the fuss of ordering and waiting for shipment. I just stocked up on enough parts for 4 or 5 projects. Cost was less than $50. My invoice has some mistakes. I will post part numbers after I get this corrected.
  • https://theelectricaldepot.com/weat...ack-56?zenid=a6023eac8d806ecef946c5a62ea9de38
Nate, I think it was on Garden Tractor talk where I read about interchangeability between models 115034A and 115000C. I have not done any engine work yet but will document in this post as project progresses.

I have removed most of the head bolts to remove tins to clean up fins and paint the tins. I know the rules about not reusing head bolts and replacing head gasket after loosing torque on bolts but I am going to bolt it back together because I want to do some engine tests to determine how far into the engine I need to go with repairs. As stated earlier indications are this is a high hour machine and I have no records of previous service. The good thing is the under sides of the tins were full of dark carbon type material but the material was dry which to me indicates there was no head gasket leakage. I also hope that means no problems with head flatness.

Photos of connectors and wiring harness. In the last photo you will see I added a light switch in the dash. That is not wired up. I did that just to fill a hole in the dash. Connector for this switch is a two-way with spades in line. I did not buy any of these connectors but will add them to my inventory next time I visit dealer.

Question: how many of you with 67 RF 112 tractors have a factory installed neutral safety switch? According to my s/n mine should not have the safety switch nor the pto safety switch. There is a pto safety switch on my tractor with wiring to small terminal on the solenoid. This is not correct for my tractor.
 

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Gabby I thought that all the 112s came with both safety switches from the factory. At least the transmission switch. The tractor may not of had a mower switch as the tractor didn't come with the mower. The mower was bought as a stand alone item. In real life most owners and even dealers just bypassed them when they gave problems and the parts were no longer available. When I started working at a dealer in 1975 you couldn't get the switches and that is what we did in the shop. Roger
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Gabby I thought that all the 112s came with both safety switches from the factory. At least the transmission switch. The tractor may not of had a mower switch as the tractor didn't come with the mower. The mower was bought as a stand alone item. In real life most owners and even dealers just bypassed them when they gave problems and the parts were no longer available. When I started working at a dealer in 1975 you couldn't get the switches and that is what we did in the shop. Roger
Good morning Roger.

I am using electronic version of

John Deere
Service Manual
110 and 112 Lawn and Garden Tractors
(Serial No. -100,000)
SM-2059-(Apr-67)


There are 3 graphics depicting wiring harness; serial numbers( -3550), (3551-15000), (15001- ). Mine would be the (3551-15000) version. The first two are very basic. Neither show the safety switches. I am servicing using (15001- ) as it is more complete. When I get the motor-generator back I will "light it up" to see if it is wired correctly.

The neutral safety switch? Would it be visible if I remove the shift quadrant? I do not see even the mounting bracket.

Gabby
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Gabby I thought that all the 112s came with both safety switches from the factory. At least the transmission switch. The tractor may not of had a mower switch as the tractor didn't come with the mower. The mower was bought as a stand alone item. In real life most owners and even dealers just bypassed them when they gave problems and the parts were no longer available. When I started working at a dealer in 1975 you couldn't get the switches and that is what we did in the shop. Roger
Good morning Roger.

I am using electronic version of
John Deere
Service Manual
110 and 112 Lawn and Garden Tractors
(Serial No. -100,000)
SM-2059-(Apr-67)


There are 3 graphics depicting wiring harness; serial numbers ( -3550), (3551-15000), and (15001- ). Mine would be the (3551-15000) version. The first two are very basic. Neither show the safety switches. I am servicing using (15001- ) as it is more complete. When I get the motor-generator back I will "light it up" to see if it is wired correctly.

The neutral safety switch? Would it be visible if I remove the shift quadrant? I do not see even the mounting bracket.

Gabby
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Don't know how my reply got in there twice. My mistake.
 

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My ‘67 112 has (had) the neutral safety switch and the PTO switch is on the tractor. Velvac, and Grote both make the PTO switch. Currently unsure of part numbers at the moment, but I will find them and post.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Picked up motor-generator. It has new brushes, brush springs, and bearings installed. I should have let them sandblast and paint. We are getting snow at the time and shop is full of vehicles so no painting today. I will get some more parts removed and sanded and ready to paint.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Snow thrower has been removed. Also, the engine has been removed from tractor so I can clean up the frame.

Had a discussion with my son. He was the machinist/engine rebuild manager for Arnold's in LeMars, IA. I had to remove 7 of 9 pcs of hardware retaining head to block. He feels reinstaling/retorqueing the hardware will not produce reliable compression test results. Guess I will remove head and inspect valves and measure cylinder ridge to see if I need to go further.

The front of the engine and frame have considerable oil residue build up that I suspect is blowby from the breather. Afraid I am going to have to go deeper into the engine than I wanted to. I have about $400 into the tractor already. That is about 1/2 of typical asking price. Am I going to loose money again on another restoration? I really have no use for this tractor when I am finished but don't want to sell someone a parts tractor. To much of that going on over in social media sites ... Gabby
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Cleaning up and painting parts so they are ready when reassembly begins. See photo of hood supports. Someone drilled a pair of holes in each support. I assume to mount lights. I would not mind the holes but the pair on one side is lower than the other. What is the best way to close up these holes?

Gabby
 

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I put a piece of copper under the hole, weld doesn't stick to copper. Then I take my mig welder and starting on one side make small welds that fill the hole. You have to wait between tacks so it doesn't get too hot. Pretty soon the hole is full and you grind it smooth. If you don't have access to a welder, maybe just install bolts in the holes and paint.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks Wally.
 
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