[gabby_in_wis]

Don't know if I can give a reasonable answer as to when it will be back together. With no history on the engine unsure if it will need rebuild. It did run and no smoke but only drove it around the buildings a couple times. Engine needs serious cleaning then will likely put it all back together to see how it runs. Part of it will get rattle can painted remainder will be original. I just want to get it in a good reliable running/driving condition.

Spacer I am looking for I am sure is in a box with bunch of other parts I need. In the garage somewhere or maybe in the back of the Gator across the street. Just want to know what that spacer looks like so when I see it I can say "there it is".

 

[smalljob]

Gabby, I have rebuilt a couple of these but trying to remember what spacer yo are talking about. I did dig up this picture of a HH100 SG lower mount but there is no spacer that I can recall. I was experimenting with a solid rod to mount SG as you can see. The HH100 usually had a bolt on each side. This one also had hydro lift and you can see the hose running through the bracket.

 

[5540jd]

Gabby, don’t forget the weak mind for the engine hoist

 

[gabby_in_wis]

Gabby, I have rebuilt a couple of these but trying to remember what spacer yo are talking about. I did dig up this picture of a HH100 SG lower mount but there is no spacer that I can recall. I was experimenting with a solid rod to mount SG as you can see. The HH100 usually had a bolt on each side. This one also had hydro lift and you can see the hose running through the bracket.

Went back to the garage last night after posting for spacer info. Determined I was trying to mount the bracket to incorrect set of holes. Bracket is attached loosely to the block. The spacer that i posted earlier about being found loose in engine compartment was the round spacer (M42214) that assembles on the upper tensioning bracket. Could you send me a photo of the upper bracket attached to the motor-generator.

Thank you very much ... Gabby

 

[smalljob]

Took me a bit, but I think this is what you are looking for

 

[gabby_in_wis]

Yes, that is the spacer I was asking about. All is well. Need to finish painting the motor-generator tonight so I can get it mounted on the engine.

used compressed air to clean up the engine last night. Looks much better but still needs more clean up.

 

[gabby_in_wis]

Model 50 project on hold till I get parts back. Rolled out the 112.

• Removed 23x8.50-12 rear wheels with 2 link chains that came with the tractor.
• Replaced the rear hubs that had large amount of play in the splines
• Installed 23x12-12 wheels/tire that came with 332 w/loader that I bought.
• Right side axle shaft seems to have an oil leak that will need attention before I can call project complete.
• Lifted engine out of frame to do more clean up/paint of the the engine/frame
• Want to paint front axle and rims. Tires are in very good condition, just rims need paint. Tires are holding air.
• Steering gearbox turns about 1/3 of a turn before front wheels begin to turn. Need to see what is needed to fix this. Tie rods also do not move so issue does not seem to be ball joints.

Will post some photos tonight.

 

[gabby_in_wis]

Changing hubs and rear tires

Front end needs clean up

 

[gabby_in_wis]

Checked the steering arm for play to determine if that was the cause for excessive freeplay in steering wheel rotation. The steering arm had vertical movement but seemed tight when checking for play in the steering. I think I will need to pull the steering column and adjust the play in the gearbox.

 

[gabby_in_wis]

Next part of this project is to clean up and paint front axle, tie rods, spindles, front wheels, and frame where the engine mounts.

Before removing front axle and tie rods I checked toe-in on the front wheels.No need painted the tie-rods and then damaging the paint adjusting toe-in.

Toe-in was way out of spec. Spec is 3/16; it measured 1" toe-out.​

I had to remove the tie-rods to get the ball joints loose.​

Tomorrow I will need to get everything loosened and threads cleaned so I can easily make the adjustments.​

Will need to reinstall tie-rods after threads are cleaned up, make the adjustments, and remove them again so they can be painted.​

​

Then I will remove the front wheels

Tires are new. Still have nipples on the treads.​

Tubes in tires.​

Easiest way to paint is remove tire and tubes.​

After paint and prior to reinstalling I need to check wheel bearing​

​

Next would be remove spindles.

Spindles do not seem to be loose in the bushings but now is the time to Mic the parts.​

Paint the spindles​

​

Front axle

Spindle bushings are still available ... p/n L1314C ... 4 required ... $20.00​

Check condition of the axle pivot bolt and bearing ... JDParts appears to be down, cannot check to see if see available.​

Paint axle​

Clean up and paint front half of the frame.

Reassemble axle, wheels, and tie-rods.

Before I can set the engine in the frame and start that assembly I need to check out the Ross steering gearbox for adjustment. Not sure if I will remove the console but it would provide a cleaner finished project if I did.

 

[gabby_in_wis]

Tie-rods are off and almost ready for paint. I am having one issue.

The right tie-rod ball joint that attaches to the steering arm is reverse thread 1/2" - 20 UNF (fine thread).
Female thread in the ball joint will not allow the rod to thread to fill depth.
How do I clean these threads without going out and buying a reverse thread tap?

Buy a new balljoint?

 

[gabby_in_wis]

New balljoint ... AM100645 ... $16.52

Left hand thread tap and die ... $26.00

Guess I know which way to proceed.

 

[Tsb3]

Gabby, I am sure that you are probably aware of this, that steering arm has a tapered bushing so the slop can be taken out.
I have an issue with the gearbox on my 66 110. The box itself has slight movement when I nudge the steering wheel left and right. The 3 mounting bolts are tight and I can actually see them move slightly also when I nudge the wheel. Also the vertical plate on the left side of the gearbox has slop in it. I think that can be adjusted with the double nuts on the shaft.

 

[Tsb3]

The axle pivot bushing P1076H is available.
I hope that’s $20.00 for 4 and not $20.00 each.

 

[gabby_in_wis]

Gabby, I am sure that you are probably aware of this, that steering arm has a tapered bushing so the slop can be taken out.
I have an issue with the gearbox on my 66 110. The box itself has slight movement when I nudge the steering wheel left and right. The 3 mounting bolts are tight and I can actually see them move slightly also when I nudge the wheel. Also the vertical plate on the left side of the gearbox has slop in it. I think that can be adjusted with the double nuts on the shaft.

Yes, aware of tapered bushing. Have not adjusted yet but the plate moves up/down so should just need to be snugged up until there is some resistance to turn.

Also, yes $20 for all 4 ($5 a piece). I do not think I will be replacing them. Haven't measured but they do not feel loose with front end raised.

Haven't done anything with the gearbox yet.

 

[Tsb3]

Gabby if you’ve got a source for $20 for all four please tell me where. I just checked my local JD dealer this morning, they told me $20 each!

 

[gabby_in_wis]

When I was DTAC for Deere when JDParts listed a quantity and price for a part the price was for that quantity. I went back into JDParts and started the order for these parts when it got down to charging my credit card you are correct. It multiplied 20.01 times four. As stated my spindles/bushing do not show that much play so I will not be replacing.

 

[gabby_in_wis]

Front axle. spindles, and tie-rods are off. Rims are solid but had been repainted. Paint is flaking off the rims. Have not removed tires from the rims yet. Want to see condition of rims since they have tubs installed. Won't get anything more done this weekend as road trip planned to deliver and pick up some parts. Probably Monday afternoon before I get back on this project. Goal is to have the engine installed by next weekend.

 

[gabby_in_wis]

I did get the tire/tubes off the rims today and one spindle cleaned up. Rims are in pretty good condition even though there is no paint on interior surfaces.

Goal for tomorrow is get rims and spindles painted. With the near new tires should make nice front wheels for the tractor.

 

[gabby_in_wis]

One spindle painted and one ready to paint.


One rim ready to paint and working on second. Rims are structurally sound but a real mess. Someone painted them and painted over dirt and grease. Thought about sandblasting them but decided against expense since I am not doing a full restoration.

Last photo the rim has been sprayed with rust reformer which turns the rust black.