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1968 112 Hydraulic Lift Engine Question

2591 Views 21 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  KB
I have a 345 with the liquid cooled kaw. motor. It seems to run alright, it revs up, holds a low idle. But when you engage the pto and put it under a load, its like a S10 pickup with 40" tires. It just boggs down and doesnt have enough power to cut. The deck is in perfect condition, good bearings, etc..... New spark plugs, carb has been recently cleaned,new fuel filter,new air filter, good pressure coming into the carb and I adjusted the governor(not much adjustment there). Any other ideas guys?
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Sounds like a governor issue to me. Are you sure you have it adjusted correctly? Adam
I was told to set the throttle at high, and turn it counter clockwise, tighten down, then try running the throttle up and down. If this didnt work then reset the throttle at high, loosen it turn it clockwise, tighten and then run it and check to see if it idles down. I tried it both ways. The one way it wouldnt idle down, the other way it seems to run pretty well? That governor rod doesnt move very much, does it?
Jason, sometimes those engines will run on just one cylinder and sound almost right. It really shows up when the mower is engaged, big bog, long recovery, low power.
This may be way off your problem, but won't cost much to check. Remove both plugs, reattach and ground them. Open throttle all the way without engaging the choke. Do a compression test on each cylinder. If one of them is really off, or doesn't consistently show good compression, remove the valve cover. Look for one of the push rods to be laying loose, maybe bent.
As mentioned, this may be way off base. But if you get a couple new gaskets for the rocker covers and check, reset if necessary, the valve lash on both cylinders, at least one maintenance chore is done.
BTW, is the air filter nice and clean?

Terry may move this thread to the "Late Model" section of this site so you will get more informed suggestions for your model. So, don't be alarmed if that happens. It's a little confusing, but you'll be in good company there, too. Good luck with the 345 repair!

Yes pull the valve covers and check the push rods and valve stems.

Our 335 lost power and I found the left exhaust valve stem pushed out into the valve chamber about a 1/4 inch. Replaced head, valves and push rods.

Suspect I now have a developing problem on the right side.
I moved this to the Late Model Forum.
Could also be firing only on one side , so check spark on both , along with , or before doing the compression test .

I will check the compression this evening. What should the lash be set at?
The book I have says 0.010" (0.25mm) for both valves.

I would like to extend a special thank you for all the tips. Sometimes ya just overlook things when you just dont stop to think things through. You guys were right. It was a dead cylinder, I pulled the valve cover and a rocker was off. Put it back on and set the lash to .010 and away we go! Runs real nice!!! I went ahead and check all the others while I was at it, also. Now....back to the 317! lol!
Score another one for Jason! I hope you made sure the push rod was still nice and straight. Sometimes they get bent after popping out of the rocker arm socket, but not always.
I suspect a piece of loose carbon getting under a valve, or anything that could hold the valve open for a nano second, is the usual cause, but keeping the lash in spec. is important.

I did check the push rod for straightness. But NEW problem. I just decided to change the fuel filter because I could see crud in it, now at a low idle it pulsates. It ran perfect before...what the H#ll?
Is this what happens when you try to be proactive? Its the same part # and everything....
Anyone have a clue, why after I changed my fuel filter on my 345 it pulsates at idle and after a while the fuel filter runs dry and it dies? There isnt hardly any fuel present in the filter at any time like the old one had.
Hey all, so I have a 1968 square fender John Deere 112, needed an engine rebuild of the Tecumseh HH100 engine, but the block was cracked and broke near the exhaust.

My question is, in looking for a replacement engine is the Tecumseh HH100 the only one that will fit without modifications of the hydraulic lift? Or will the Kohler engine work with this as well?

I see that some of the Kohler tractors came with the hydraulic lift but I can't tell if it is the same unit.

Ben, it is the same hydraulic unit but the mounting brackets are different.
Stephen, I think the pumps are different too. The Tecumseh one is rotated 90 degrees vs the Kohler one. plus the frames are different, I think a Kohler needs a bigger cut out for the flywheel
Nope KB tecumpseh and Kohler 181 pumps are the same, same bracket form but they have different bolt batterns. The Kohler k241 pump has the oil reservoir turned 90 degrees.

Thanks for the extra detail, I'm not sure which Kohler Ben would be finding, I always forget the k181 was used in the early square fender 110's. in 68 the 112 Kohler option was a k241 though.

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