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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm in the process of restoring this tractor. A previous owner changed it from an internal coil to external. When I got it the stator was shoot. I purchased a new stator/coil assembly and have decided to move the coil back inside the flywheel since the new stator was only available as stator and coil together . I've installed the new coil and can't get a spark at the plug wire. I have it test connected with no kill wire attached, only to the points, new condenser. I have not connected the charging system wires yet which come from the stator. Do I have to have the charging system connected and the battery installed to get any spark?
 

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kohler engines normally have an externally mounted coil. thats the stock igition. kohler engines are normally equipped with a battery ignition system.
 

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Andrew, the 68 had a magneto ignition. It did not have the external mounted coil. Bill is trying to change it back to the internal coil.
Bill, you know you will have to change the key switch too. They are different for these systems.
I'm not real familiar with the set up of the stator coil. I believe there is a gap to set on the stator to fly wheel, but I'm not sure.
Stan Barnes, Roger Henning,or one of the other guys would know.
You should not need the battery to run the engine, only to start it.
Are the points set at .020 ?
Hang in there . We will get you an answer.
Roy
 

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Well, looking at my manual, it appears the coil is in a fixed position, so I dont believe there is any adjustment. I might have been thinking of the solid state ignition.
It says point gap is very important though.
I would say that if you are not getting spark, the coil may need checking.
 

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To convert a '68 110 (s/n 100,001 - 130,000) from internal to external coil all that was required was to mount a new coil, connect the ignition lead from the switch to the coil (+) terminal, connect the condenser and points leads to the (-) terminal, and replace the ignition switch.

To convert back means reconnecting the points/condenser leads to the stator coil lead and replacing the ignition switch.

The charging system and battery are not required to run the engine.

I would use an ohmmeter to verify correct operation of the points by disconnecting the points wire and and looking for conductivity when the points are closed and none when open. I'd also check the stator circuit by looking for low resistance through the coil, about 1-3 ohms between the points lead and ground with the points open.

Stan
 

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Stan in the for what its worth file magneto Kohlers use a different condenser than battery ignition ones do so you would also need to match the condenser to the ignition type. Roger
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have purchased new points from JD and condenser from Kohler. The need for a new ign. switch is a new thought. I now have spark if I use the started to turn the engine over, but I'm not able to spin the flywheel fast enough by hand to get a spark. Thanks for all the help. I'm also slowly restoring a 1947 B.
 

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Did you have the key on , or off when you tried it by hand. If it was off your not going to get spark. that is if all the wires are hooked up.

Roy
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I had the ground wire unhooked so I should have had spark anyway. I have spark when the starter is turning the engine over. I believe I'll be OK thanks to everyone's help. Evidently I'm not able to turn the engine fast enough by hand.
 

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I am restoring a 110 tractor with the same engine. It had been converted to an external coil. After the engine was rebuilt , I bolted it in and it runs fine at idle and slightly off idle, but when I go to 1/2 throttle or higher, it runs rough and sputters out of the exhaust( I havent installed the muffler yet). I had a 212 that acted like this and had a bad condenser and I was leaning towards substituting a known good one, here. I installed a new set of points (.020)that came with the engine but a used condenser of unknown condition. Any ideas?
 

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I am restoring a 110 tractor with the same engine. It had been converted to an external coil. After the engine was rebuilt , I bolted it in and it runs fine at idle and slightly off idle, but when I go to 1/2 throttle or higher, it runs rough and sputters out of the exhaust( I havent installed the muffler yet). I had a 212 that acted like this and had a bad condenser and I was leaning towards substituting a known good one, here. I installed a new set of points (.020)that came with the engine but a used condenser of unknown condition. Any ideas?
It needs the full throttle piece put on so that it will run full speed without dying down maybe a ignition trigger module for the outside part of your flywheel
 

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I have purchased new points from JD and condenser from Kohler. The need for a new ign. switch is a new thought. I now have spark if I use the started to turn the engine over, but I'm not able to spin the flywheel fast enough by hand to get a spark. Thanks for all the help. I'm also slowly restoring a 1947 B.
I just put those on my John deere 110 with the black 8hp Kohler k181s engine it didn't do any good because the plug wire isn't getting power to it and mine I believe is missing the ignition trigger module and needs the stator or magneto under the flywheel and needs a new rectifier think once those are put on it'll fire up

It wants to fire but has no spark from the plug wire the points are set right the condenser is new but no spark

Need the tool to pop off the flywheel just to see what's under it a magneto or a stator
 

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Craftsmen, First, Welcome to WFM ! Second, the posts your are quoting are 12 years old, so I'm not sure if you'll get a response from those people! Third, your issue!

If you have points, you should have a battery ignition system, although it could also be a magneto system. If no coil, it's a magneto system. If it has a coil, it's battery system. If coil, check for voltage at + (pos) side of coil with key on and - (neg) wire on coil disconnected. Start there! Bob
 

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Craftsmen, First, Welcome to WFM ! Second, the posts your are quoting are 12 years old, so I'm not sure if you'll get a response from those people! Third, your issue!

If you have points, you should have a battery ignition system, although it could also be a magneto system. If no coil, it's a magneto system. If it has a coil, it's battery system. If coil, check for voltage at + (pos) side of coil with key on and - (neg) wire on coil disconnected. Start there! Bob
I figured that it being a old page but its still on here though. It does have a spot for the battery in has a coil on the front of the engine and condenser and points all 3 are brand new parts

My engine does have a spot to hold a ignition trigger module but there's no module on it. It does have a old 3 post rectifier.

I believe it would start right up if only the middle of the coil had power so I was reading all those other people's old comments on here and seen one that might work might not by unhooking the ground wire on the coil but my john deere 110 is a 1968 model and has the black Kohler k181s engine

Now I don't have those points gap tool or tester tools but the points do have power cause i can feel a little bit of shock the other comment I seen was they didn't get a new plug wire but mine looks new I could shave off some of the rubber to make sure the ends are connected to the plug wire I'd think the engine could run fine without the rectifier plugged in how my craftsmen does with the Kohler pro cv16s engine.

I'm just trying to figure out the no spark problem from the new coil I know it has to be something really simple.
 

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Craftsmen, First, Welcome to WFM ! Second, the posts your are quoting are 12 years old, so I'm not sure if you'll get a response from those people! Third, your issue!

If you have points, you should have a battery ignition system, although it could also be a magneto system. If no coil, it's a magneto system. If it has a coil, it's battery system. If coil, check for voltage at + (pos) side of coil with key on and - (neg) wire on coil disconnected. Start there! Bob
Then if I disconnect the - negative wires on the coil its gonna disconnect both the points and condenser and the ignition key switch will also get cut off if I do that because its hooked to the negative unless i just unhook the points and condenser and keep the ignition switch hooked onto the coil negative side I can try it
 

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Craftsmen, I don't know of any way to test or troubleshoot your tractor without a meter. Stores like Lowes, Home Depot, Harbor Freight, etc. carry volt meters for usually less than $50...Harbor Freight has one for $7.00! The correcrt points gap will be needed too, so get a set of feeler gauges.

In your last post (#17), are you saying that your ignition switch wire is connected to the - (neg) side of the coil? If so, that could be why your not getting spark! Ignition switch wire connects to + side and condenser & points to - side. Bob
 

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Craftsmen, I don't know of any way to test or troubleshoot your tractor without a meter. Stores like Lowes, Home Depot, Harbor Freight, etc. carry volt meters for usually less than $50...Harbor Freight has one for $7.00! The correcrt points gap will be needed too, so get a set of feeler gauges.

In your last post (#17), are you saying that your ignition switch wire is connected to the - (neg) side of the coil? If so, that could be why your not getting spark! Ignition switch wire connects to + side and condenser & points to - side. Bob
I was wrong on that it was connected to the negative like you said

If I could i would switch this engine over to use a magneto and magnets on the flywheel but it's not possible with the flywheel that's on because the starter gear teeth around it then i think if it did have a ignition trigger module the module would rest right on the gear teeth on the flywheel I think it would need a whole different flywheel for that and a magneto.

Anyways i tried it again today and it still didn't have spark the points have spark though I can see them spark I'll buy those tools I'm needing then try again
 
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