[das2010]

So last night I decided to start working on the 140. I figured I would start it up and run it for a while and see what were my main issues. I jump started it off of another vehicle and she roared to life. From the front of the tractor came a smoke and smell like wires or a clutch smoking. I drove the tractor in both directions and then shut it off. The clutch kept spinning for about 10 minutes. I removed the front grill and decided to start it again so I could see where the smoke was coming from. NOTHING.... it acts like it has a dead ground. The jumper cables act like they are being hooked up backwards....(they were not)...I unhooked the wire to the clutch and nothing changed. ANY IDEAS ARE WELCOME....
Help!!
Dave

 

[LeonardS]

Sell it to me for $50!!!!

Leonard

 

[das2010]

Sounds good but I hate to sell anything that doesnt run right!!!!!
I better fix it first.....

 

[LeonardS]

Darn it!

I wish I could help with your problem but I just purchased my first 140 so I am still a rookie. Some of the guys with years of experience will be able to help.

Leonard

 

[wunjohere]

Hi Dave,

The PTO on my 140 spins for quite some time after it shut off.

Luckily chasing sorts isn't hard, unfortunately it can be time consuming.

I'm making the assumption the short exists with the key off? If this is the case it's most likely one of the wires tied directly to the battery (starter wire, solenoid +, ignition +)

What year 140 is it? Engine / Charging system?

Hope it's easy to find,
Scott

 

[das2010]

This is a 1971 140 H3. it has the K321 14hp engine in it. I am not sure where the short is or how to find it.

 

[wunjohere]

Do you have a wiring diagram?

If so would you send me a copy and we can walk through the steps.

Alternatively does anyone know if there is any electrical changes from 70 to 71. My service manual is ( -30000).

First thing I'd do is pull the battery and run it buy an auto parts store and have it tested.

Scott

Scott

 

[wunjohere]

Do you have a decent multimeter?

If not while you're getting the battery tested pick one up. You don't need anything fancy just a digital one. Don't waste your money on an analog meter (they have the needle in the little window).

You'll want your meter to have AC and DC (wiggly line and straight line): Current (amps), Voltage, and resistance (Ohms little horse shoe looking thing) and continuity (speaker or sound wave, three progressively large curved lines). Lastly auto ranging is a very nice option.

Sears has this for for around $20
Craftsman

I'd spend $10 more to get auto ranging.
Craftsman.com

Having a reliable meter will pay for itself in saved time and frustration.

You may already know all of the above but someone will likely need it.

Scott

 

[mikeduwe]

Sure the starter wasnt stuck on as the engine was running, that would cause it to smoke after some time I would guess. Would also explain not starting again.

 

[das2010]

Scott, I have a good Multi meter. The battery I was using was in my running truck so I am pretty sure its fine. What do I check for?

 

[tommyhawk]

This is off the main subject, but if you reset the air gap on the electric clutch to specification, the pulley probably won't spin like that.
Wish I could be more help on the main problem, but something got fried. That stinky smell almost always means time and more money. Hope you find it easily.

tommyhawk

 

[wunjohere]

Here is how I would work it I'm working from the wiring diagram for a year younger model so there may be some differences.

Install the know good battery into the tractor attach only the positive terminal.

With key off test between the ground wire and terminal. Do you read close to 12 volts?

With the key in accessory position? With each device (ie lights pto) on or off?

Don't check in start position

We're looking for a few things, is there a straight ground(short) and where are there voltages to ground in the harness.

We'll be able to further narrow it down from there. We are ready have a good suspect that someone had suggested in the starter.

We expect to see some voltage when the lights or pto are on but it should be less then 12v

Let me know what you find,
Scott

 

[tommyhawk]

I need some help on my neighbor's L100. It will drain the battery after sitting un-used for two weeks.
Last spring I installed a new battery. It ran down after two weeks. Put another known to be good battery in and the same thing happened. Batteries will recharge just fine and work well in my tractors.
The key switch was in bad shape so I replaced it. I also replaced the regulator. With the engine running the charging system works as it should. When I attach a voltmeter between the un hooked battery cable and the battery post, there is a 0.2 voltage draw. If the regulator is disconnected, the reading goes to zero. Did the same with the original regulator.
So, here's the question. Does anyone have an electrical diagram for the L100 B&S powered, (forgot the HP already) tractor that you could post or e-mail to me?
I need to know if there is a diode built into the stator wiring or the extra connector to the regulator.
If there is, and it is blown, wouldn't the stator be incapable of supplying AC voltage?
Got me stumped!
Thanks for any advice you may offer.

tommyhawk

 

[wyogreen]

I wouldn't think there would be a diode in the stator wiring. A diode would make the stator put out pulsing DC, rather than AC. Obviously there must a high resistance short to ground someplace if you read the .2 volts. The diodes in the regulator shouldn't let the DC from the battery flow back to the Stator, even if it had a short to ground. It is a bit of a puzzler. I'm going to have to think on this for a bit.

Steve

 

[tommyhawk]

Thanks for the response, Steve. I'm not an electrical guru, so I get in these jams occasionally.
BTW the wiring is all in like new condition, never been tinkered with except for me cleaning and checking connections trying to solve this problem.

tommyhawk

 

[tommyhawk]

Here's a shot of most of the charging system just for fun.

tommyhawk