1973 110 restoration

27261 Views 158 Replies 23 Participants Last post by jlw53, Jun 24, 2019

jlw53

Discussion Starter · Jan 5, 2016

7

Well the real work won't start until it warms up around here. But I thought I would post some before pictures. I just finished the first of many part orders for it.
She runs good but I'm going to start by cleaning the fuel tank and replacing the lines and filter. Then rebuilding the carb. The fuel shut off is broken so that is getting replaced as well.
Next will be the PTO cable. It is either broken or has come loose from the control arm. I haven't pulled the battery and tray yet so I can see it.
Then the variator needs some work. It is not working 100%. Have to pull back on the clutch pedal to get her going full speed.
The plan after that is to rebuild the mower deck so I can mow some with it next summer. I'll probably paint bits and pieces along the way as I go.

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TruckDoc

· #2 · Jan 5, 2016

Nice looking tractor to start you work with. If you have any questions, this is the right place to get answers, the Fine members of this forum have enough combined information that I don't believe there is any issue/question that you couldn't get answered. Curt

wolverine

· #3 · Jan 6, 2016

That is a pretty good looking machine. Much better than my three 112's. I hope to fix that soon with one of mine. Hope your restoration goes well and we want lots of pictures.

jlw53

Discussion Starter · #4 · Jan 8, 2016 (Edited)

What a difference a new spark plug makes! When I picked this tractor up it wasn't running all that great at higher rpms. I figured the carb needed a rebuild. The PO said the gas was about 6 month old and I think it was older then that. I drained that gas and put some fresh non-ethanol in, that made a huge difference. But it was still missing once in a while, especially when throttling up. Today I picked up some fresh oil and spark plug and changed both. Found the old plug had a gap of .03 when it should have been .02 and the oil was pretty nasty. Fired it up after that and it runs like new now!

Made me very happy. Now I can concentrate on some of the mechanical issues.
The PTO cable is broken so I need to order one of those and the variator needs some serious attention.
I took it for a spin around the yard and had to pull back on the clutch pedal to get full speed out of any gear or to power up a small incline. I only notice the speed control lever does anything in the back two notches. Could worn drive belts be causing some of this? Or do you guys think the variator sheave may be stuck?

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KB

· #5 · Jan 8, 2016

I'm pretty sure the plug gap is supposed to be .035 for a points and coil Kohler, .025 for solid state ones

jlw53

Discussion Starter · #6 · Jan 8, 2016

KB said:
I'm pretty sure the plug gap is supposed to be .035 for a points and coil Kohler, .025 for solid state ones

I was going by the service manual. Is this not correct?

KB

· #7 · Jan 8, 2016

My manuals are at home, and I'm at work, but .020 is the point gap.

jlw53

Discussion Starter · #8 · Jan 8, 2016

It says 0.020 for the plug and point gap. I'd gladly change it if that is wrong. But it does run better.

KB

· #9 · Jan 8, 2016

I just downloaded the kohler owners manual.

3. Check gap using a wire feeler gauge. Spark pluggaps are as follows:
Battery/Breakerless . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .035”
Magneto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 025”
Gaseous Fuel Engines . . . . . . . . . ,018”

yours is a battery ignition.

http://www.kohlerengines.com/onlinecatalog/pdf/tp_1346_c_all.pdf

KB

· #10 · Jan 8, 2016

see page 8 of the service manual, it agrees with what I listed.

http://www.kohlerengines.com/onlinecatalog/pdf/tp_2379.pdf

jlw53

Discussion Starter · #11 · Jan 8, 2016

I was going by the JD service manual. So which one should it be?

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...a04tgrct5wpWY0T6FH4s3g&bvm=bv.110151844,d.bGQ

KB

· #12 · Jan 8, 2016

I'm pretty sure the JD owners manual agrees with Kohler, JD does occasionally have typos, or errors, like one place says it takes 10 feet of fuel line for reserve pickup on a 318.

jlw53

Discussion Starter · #13 · Jan 8, 2016

lol It says the same thing for the 110 fuel line. 10'

jlw53

Discussion Starter · #14 · Jan 9, 2016

I changed the plug gap to .035 and ran it around the yard for a while today. Still running great.
Played with the variator a bit to see if it would free up. It pretty much stops when moved to the first notch and I only feel resistance in the first two. Supposed to get cold and snowy here tonight so tractor work is on hold for a bit. Gives me time to read up on variation and clutch info.

inspired_metal

· #15 · Jan 9, 2016

Jeff, I wonder if the variator is not seized on the pivot bolt. That is quite common and could result in the problems you describe. Easy to check if you have the battery tray out . Recently there were several people working on their variators and they had quite good threads. Hec and someone else did complete rebuild threads. Check them out

Dom

jlw53

Discussion Starter · #16 · Jan 10, 2016

inspired_metal said:
Jeff, I wonder if the variator is not seized on the pivot bolt. That is quite common and could result in the problems you describe. Easy to check if you have the battery tray out . Recently there were several people working on their variators and they had quite good threads. Hec and someone else did complete rebuild threads. Check them out

Dom

Thanks, I will.
Got a new pto cable And fuel lines on the way so the battery tray and fuel tank will be out soon. The clutch pedal seems like it could use some lube, so I want to look at that as well.

jlw53

Discussion Starter · #17 · Apr 18, 2016

Finally warm enough in the garage to start work on the 110. Before I did anything though I had to dig the old 80 cart out of winter storage and haul some wood.

Hope to start working on the mower deck this week.

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jlw53

Discussion Starter · #18 · May 2, 2016 (Edited)

4

Did an initial clean up of the mower deck this weekend. But not before putting the 110 to work some more. It is nice having a real garden tractor again. The power company did some trimming around the power poles on my property over the winter and left quite a lot of wood piled up for me. The truck is too big to get in and get most of it, but the 110 was able to get between the narrow trees and haul it out. Made about 10 trips hauling loads in the 80 cart.

I'm really happy with the condition of the deck. I thought it would be in worse shape but after getting caked on grass off it really doesn't look too bad. Bearings don't feel bad but do make some noise. The PB blaster will be working overtime this week.

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jlw53

Discussion Starter · #19 · May 5, 2016 (Edited)

2

So I got the deck torn down. All but the main pulley bearing. That one looks like it will take some time to get out.
Question now is paint or powder coat?
I had myself talked into powder coat until I did some reading on it and found out it is not easy to touch up or redo if it gets damaged. Got a local quote of $100 to coat the deck, not including sand blasting.
Now I'm sort of leaning toward paint. Since this is going to be a worker I think I'd like to be able to strip and repaint myself if needed down the road.

What does everyone recommend?

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Harold J. Maat

· #20 · May 13, 2016

I prefer paint. Just me though, it's your machine. A pretty nice looking one at that. Your 110 probably does need new variator drive belts, but check your pivot bolt and the sheaves too. They are reasonably easy to work on. I have had pretty good luck buying used parts on e-bay from Joe's Outdoor Power or Floyd's in Coopersville, MI. Both of these gentlemen will stand by their parts and will not knowingly sell you a bad part.

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