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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Tractor is a 1973 JD 140 H3 s/n T0586047122.
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Today I decided to do more than look at my 140 when I walk into the garage.

First goal is to get it started
  • No starter on engine. I had a new aftermarket starter in inventory so installed the starter and connected battery cable
  • Engine oil looks fresh and at full level
  • Poured about gallon of fresh gas/seafoam mixture in tank.
  • Shot of starting fluid in carb.
  • Connected power pack to battery ... cranks over at acceptable speed that should start engine.
  • Got out my multimeter.
    • Ignition switch tests ok ... Didn't test to make sure it does not crank when transmision is engaged.
    • Ammeter ?
    • Neutral safety switch ok
    • PTO switch ok. ... Clicks when I engage the pto and engine will not crank when engaged.
    • Seat switch? ... I don't see one on wiring diagram.
    • 12v at both primary and seconday poles on the coil.
    • 12v to the starter solenoid.
    • Starter relay clicks when I engage starter
    • No spark at the spark plug.
    • I have not tested to see if I have 12v at the points.
  • I need to test points circuit to see if that is why engine will no fire.
It needs a new muffler. I have one but not installed. When I cranked over the engine with old muffler insulation blew out of the muffler.

Trying to get it running tonight yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
One other thing I noticed, choke cable is seized. So is the light switch.

Throttle cable works ok.
 

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Seems like you got a good handle on getting it started.
I have a '73 also. Great machines.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Neutral safety switch works as it should.
There is 12v to the points.
Got the choke cable freed up but needs lube.
Measure 12v at both ends of of the spark plug cable.

Down to two things. Not getting fuel to carb but should fire and start on starting fluid ... Nothing
How do I test a condenser?
 

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Gabby,

Check the points, i.e., inspect for pitting and or carbon marks. Validate the point gap is correct, looks okay is inadequate.

There are videos on You Tube explaining how to check your condenser and coil.

Michael
 

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good luck gabby will be following along as Need to get time to work on my other 140 and get it running, so Far I have the starter on it and I know the engine turns over and that is as far as I have gotten.

Its my when its to hot to work outside project at the moment, I just hope I get it done before it becomes its my to cold to work outside project.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I just want to get it running so I can take the 120 down for engine rebuild. I really like that tractor as a general purpose tractor and that is what the 140 will be initially. Ton of work needs to be done on tractor after I get it running. Brakes, park brake, center and inner control levers on H3 are seized and need to be freed up, have rear hydraulic lines that need to be installed and steering gearbox needs adjustment/rebuild. I'll be an old man before all that gets done.

Good luck with your projects Matt.
 

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My 73 is a H1 :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Didn't get much more done with 140 last evening but I did test again for spark at the spark plug after dark. It does fire but a weak spark so definitely need to do some more points work. Also going to at least remove carb bowl and needle valve to get those cleaned up. Needs air cleaner so will start a shopping list.
 

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Hey Gabby,
I have a pointsaver that I never got installed on my 400 and I'll no longer have any equipment with points. I can probably make a quick trip over there to drop it off in the next day or two if you'd like to try it.
Hmm... Maybe I should make sure I can find it in the shop first...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Not familiar with what a pointsaver is. I do have 120, 140. two 112's, 216, 300, 314, and 317 with points. I would gladly reimburse you for cost and shipping if shipping is more convenient. Gabby
 

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Nah, you're only a few miles away. I'll just drop it by. You can have it.
The pointsaver is a kirkengines.com product. Kirk Engines, Inc. >> Garden Tractor Performance Parts Check out his page for installation instructions.
Looks like it is called the Trandenser II. I still remember it by the old name. It is a small piece of electronics that looks about like a condenser. It takes all the "heavy lifting" away from the points so that your points will last forever. The points just become a low current trigger.
I think I can sneak out of here around 2:00 today. If you're not around, I'll just leave a small box by your garage doors around back.
I'd bring a couple PBR along, but I won't have time to stay. Need to get back to the queue. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks JD for dropping off the pointsaver. I was at a Hazel Green highway 80 reconstruction meeting. Sorry I missed you.

This afternoon I pulled the points, cleaned the contacts with emery paper, and reinstalled them. I didn't print the installation instructions for the pointsaver unitl after I had the points reinstalled. May get it installed tonight yet.

Ordered carb rebuild kit, gaskets, and air filter components. Won't be here till next week. Going to pull the carb and soak it to get it cleaned and ready for rebuild.

I have extra fuel tanks. Will look them over to see if there is a better one than the one that was on the tractor.
 
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One thing with the Pointsaver (Transdensor II) Gabby, the points have to be clean. Hitting them with emery cloth is good, but I've found if you have any residue(sandpaper/metal dust), the pointsaver may give you issues. After sanding my points I hit them with some brake cleaner or electric contact cleaner. Also, a nice dry area storage area is advisable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
One thing with the Pointsaver (Transdensor II) Gabby, the points have to be clean. Hitting them with emery cloth is good, but I've found if you have any residue(sandpaper/metal dust), the pointsaver may give you issues. After sanding my points I hit them with some brake cleaner or electric contact cleaner. Also, a nice dry area storage area is advisable.
I have both, brake and electric contact cleaner on hand. When I remove the points to hook up the pointsaver I will give them a shot.
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Removed the carburetor from the tractor. It is a Walbro replacement carb. There is no rebuild kit available; only gaskets. Replacement cost is $290. I returned the rebuild kit I picked up yesterday because does not fit this carb. Will give current carb a good cleaning and hope it works ok.
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Also removed hood supports and grille so I could replace the old muffler. Face where exhaust is located had some rust thru and exhaust tube rusted and missing. New muffler not installed, Just checking fit. I also took a rod bar and hammer to grille to repair dents in grille. No photo of grille yet.
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I had to remove a couple of the engine tins to get to the muffler. Appears the head gasket is leaking. Need to stop taking covers off and finding theses potential problems. Is the oil build up on lower left under the head a gasket leak?
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To remove head I will need to remove flywheel cover. I had not planned on this much work to get it running.
 

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Yeah looks like head gasket needed.
Mine looked very similar.
 

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I think people have had good results from the Isavetractors.com replacement carbs. I haven't used one, but I did use a $25 Ebay carb on a 5hp mini-bike a few years ago, and it worked great. I think it was less $ than the B&S rebuild kit.

I save tractors carb
 

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Gabby, Ohm out your ignition coil. I'm not 100% sure, but I'm thinking 12v on + terminal and ~around~ 9 volts on - side going to points. Volt readings are from terminal to ground, not terminal to terminal. Can/would someone please verify this? Bob
 
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