[dayers]

first problem:
quits when it feels like it while running snow blower. it also starts hard sometimes. I thought it was the head worked loose in the 4 hours it has been run this year since the new head gasket. so I torqued the head back down I run just over spec torque. then went to the spark plug it was clean not washed clean but not fouled up possible a little lean but on further inspection I could not see through where you should see light so I bent the end up a little put it back in and what a difference. but a little too hot so I took it back out and pushed it down a hair to where it belongs. now at this point it runs ok but still has a knock it has had for many years noticeable when at half throttle and when cold but not at full throttle unless being worked hard by the 49 that stays on all year. but then it ran for 20 minutes and quit waited a bit and it started again so it went back to the barn till it gets fixed this is the same it did last time I blew with it runs and quits then runs and quits then runs for another 1.5 hours and quits. what could it be? grandpa thinks its condenser/points. if that is the general consensus I will order them and find out if it solves it.

problem 2:
it leaks oil real bad out what I think is the seal between the front and back half of the transmission when just started it runs a steady stream then as it gets heated up it slows to a drip here and there but never stops completely but slows to a drip every 15-20 feet it has gotten worse in the last 2 years. now to do the whole drive at the house it eats 1-1.5 quarts between the puddle at warm up to the drips. could it be this seal it is running out the seam I think is this hard to change? should I be looking for another transmission? how long does this take a good mechanic or 2 to change?

 

[KB]

As for the stalling, problem you might have junk in the gas tank, that occasionally blocks the pickup, same with the carb bowl. I would change the points and condenser as a matter ruling them out for little money. You may need to set the points slightly off from .020 sometimes they like to be .015-.025.

Resealing a tranny is about 2 hours with help and experience, I'd plan 4 if your unsure of yourself. The seal between the pump and transaxle is the easiest, one to do.

 

[inspired_metal]

The dying after you run it is either condensor, junk in the tank or the regulator has gone bad ( that happened to me once).
The tranny isn't bad if thats really the problem. Was it good and be sure where the leak is before you dive into it.

Dom

 

[dayers]

if I replace points should I get a pushrod at the same time to put in or use the old one?

 

[Lynn E Moyer]

I had a 317, original Kohler, I would till with it, worked fine. When it got warmed up it would quit. I would leave it sit for awhile and it would start up and run again till it got warmed up. I ended up replacing the coil.

 

[KB]

I would not start with the pushrod. Point and condenser are normal wear items. The rod is not.

 

[dbradenb]

I was told by my dealer that some of the original pushrods were aluminum and would ware down after a lot of years. I was having trouble setting the points to open to 0.020" and that was the problem. I replace the pushrod with a steel one and it works great. The new one was about 1/16" longer than the used one.
Don B.

 

[dayers]

put a coil and condenser in and it ran like a new machine till it quit in the drive way pushed it back to the barn and jumped it to start again ran good again I hit a bump and it quit I pushed back to barn and now does nothing even with a battery charger hooked to it doesn't even click could it be the key switch? sometimes it turns over then stops mid turn over wait a minute and it turns over again. I have checked the spark plug wire and other connections I think my battery is no good as it will not hold a charge. any ideas

 

[fly4fun]

Sounds like an electrical connection problem, check all the connections going to the ignition switch along with the switch itself.