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Discussion Starter #1
So I have been asking a punch of questions a bought my 1976, 300 so I deiced to post a new thread in stead of doing one for each question.

my problem at this time is my transmission has a oil leek, is there a oil thickener that I can put in my transmission:unkown: or do I half too replace all my gaskets on transmission? is there a common place for them too have oil leeks?

and it is jerky in reverse.
 

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Oil thickener: DO NOT USE! Your transmission is hydrostatic, meaning hydraulic, and requires a specific oil. Based on your Idaho location, probably JD low vis hyguard.

Leak(s): No particular common place for a leak to occur. It could be a loose oil filter, a loose fitting, a cracked transmission case, or anything in between...including a bad gasket! Remove fender pan, clean/wash hydro, and dry. Jack tractor, place on jackstands and run, both Fwd & Rev. At this point, all you can do is watch to see exactly where the leak is occurring and repair that area. Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #3
okay I will not use oil thickener. I'll take the fender pan off and see if I can find it. (I already need to take it off to put my new rear lights on it.)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I cleaned my transmission last night then I ran it for 15+ minuets and I found my oil leek.(this is not my transmission) but my oil is leaking where is cycled, it leeks on the bottom. wrtgwe.jpg
 

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Kinda hard to tell where it's leaking from photo. If between to aluminum castings...held together with about 8 bolts...there's a gasket in there that could be bad/leaking. First, put a wrench on the bolts to be sure they're tight! Not sure if that's a pressure area, so cleaning with parts cleaner and adding RTV may seal it. The best way is to replace the gasket.

If it's leaking from the charge pump...housing on front with 2 bolts... there's an o-ring inside. I believe this IS pressurized and will need a new o-ring. Check bolts first! Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #6
my transmission is jerky in backwards all the time and in forwards some times how could I fix that?

this is my transmission the arrow is where the oil is leaking from.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'm thinking a bought swapping my transmission in my 1976 300 with my parts 300 be cause my parts 300 does not leek when it is off(I don't know a bought when it is under presser)
 

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Your hydroshock is probably worn out would be my guess why it is jerky. I had one doing the same thing. The hydro shock in my 317 was in the dash making it a bear to replace. Some models have them in the back and is much easier. I think that may be the open frame version though!
 

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Looking in the Deere parts catalog they show 2 different versions of where the hydroshock is located. part number AM35220 and is #12 in the diagram. You may get lucky and have the style in the rear.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I'm thinking a bought swapping my transmission in my 1976 300 with my parts 300 be cause my parts 300 does not leek when it is off(I don't know a bought when it is under presser)
well I swapped my transmission and it will not go in reverse and it is jerky in forwards:unkown:...any ideas would appreciated.
 

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As a first, easy step, have a look at the two check valves on top of the tranny. These have little spring-loaded pins that are depressed to allow for manually rolling the tractor. If a pin is dirty or rusty it may not spring back up completely and the tractor will not operate in one or both directions or can have slow, jerky movement. The symptoms you describe could also be due to hydro linkage problems, bad hydro fluid or filter, an air leak, etc.
Harold
 

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I agree with jdalchemist but would also add that your hydroshock is most likely worn out. If you are lucky you may be able to swap the one off of your parts tractor. They are still available part number is AM35220. mine was herky jerky til I replaced it. Once off it is easily tested. I am going to assume you have changed your fluid to proper level and new filter. If not use jd low-viscocity highguard and filter AM39653. You can look up your parts here. https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/82557/referrer/navigation/pgId/20377682
 

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Discussion Starter #15
it has Automatic transmission fluid in it. this is my parts tractor's transmission.
 

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Andrew, Early JD tractors recommended ATF, so that's OK. Based on your location, once you determine transmission is OK/good, drain fluid, change filter, and fill with lo-vis HyGard.

jdalschemist & Gojo04 are on the right track. Check free wheeling valves first. In front of seat in center of seat pan is a black knob. Below this under seat pan are the free wheeling valves. Remove seat pan and GENTLY push the pins on top of the valve down. Watch pins and start tractor...pins should pop up. Penetrating oil, a pair of needle nosed pliers, and gentle persuasion should get valves to work. Next, follow linkage from hydro back to lever on dash. Look...push/pull...for any looseness. Last, remove "shock absorber" from tractor linkage. If you can move the rod in & out easily, it's shot!

Check things out and get back to us with results/findings, Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks for all your help I push the pins on top of the valve down then started my tractor they poped up! I put the cover back over them and realized the rod with the black nob on it was holding them down so I loosened that and my tractor drives grate is forwards and reverse!!! THANKS A LOT!!!!:lol::yahoo:
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I have a parts 300 and I'm hoping too take the hydraulics off of my parts tractor and put them on my running 300! I was wondering if any one on here has dune something like that and if they could give me some ideas I'm hoping too use the "new" left valve for a rear hydraulic remote (I'm using the left one be cause it has down pressure) I don't know what too use the right one for (it will have up presser but no down pressure) I'm gonna mount the second valves if front of and a little higher then the original set. (so they will be in a block of 4)
 

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Andy, I believe the 300 has an H1 hydraulic system. This does not have a float position, but has down pressure. If you're judging "no down pressure" by the fact that an attachment on the front doesn't lift the tractor when the lever is pushed forward, you missing something! Pushing the lever forward supplies pressure to your front outlets AND your rockshaft (deck rise/lower cylinder). When the lever is pushed, the weight of the front attachment lowers it to the ground. Now you have to wait...maybe 5 -10 seconds... for the rockshaft cylinder to move to the end of its stoke. Still holding the lever forward, the pressure now goes to the front and will apply pressure to the front cylinder.

Please post "why" you think you don't have down pressure.

Also, you'll be much...much, MUCH... better off finding and H2 valve and installing that. Bob
 
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