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1980 JD 400

4479 Views 46 Replies 20 Participants Last post by  markdtn
I have acquired the tractor I learned to do work on about 30 years ago. THE John Deere 400!. My grandfather bought it brand new in 79 or 80. My dad used it from 1992ish until 1996ish when the engine scattered. This tractor has been sitting untouched in my garage since the last time it moved about 25yrs ago. Other than the scattered engine, it is cherry- Grandpa and dad took very good care of it. My question is........is it worth my time and money to get the beast going again? (After my son and I get our 60 rebuilt [see introduction thread])
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Only you can answer that question. My question is, where’s the picture of it?:unsure:
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Kohler parts are still readily available.
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Most Kohler K532/582 engines that grenade blow up the connecting rod (mostly on the right cylinder). These connecting rods are pretty rare. I've seen blocks available and pistons and other internal parts. Reconditioning a block/crank and buying other internal parts would likely exceed the cost of a repower. I have a repower for my 1981 400 out over the horizon. I happened into a Harbor Freight today and ogled the Predator for $1000. Maybe Santa will put one in my stocking just for future consideration. I'd be willing to reinforce my stocking hung by the chimney with care. Although I would probably lean a Vanguard that creeps up on $2000. Maybe an offering of more cookies and a larger glass of milk could sweeten the deal...in my mind I've been nice this year...Mrs. Grandpajay might have a contrary opinion.
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I'd say yes. But do a repower.
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Where are you located? If I can help you out with parts I will. Like hearing stories about a legacy tractor like that.
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If the block hasn't been destroyed/broken then something like this would get you up and running with some work.
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No holes, just internal issues that have never been dug into and explored. I am in North Central Indiana. Will get pics in the morning. Need to take a few storm doors off her before I can get pics hahaha.
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Your membership in the Black Sheep Squadron has been duly noted and would have been approved by the higher ups if we actually had any. No big shots in the black hub club though. You will be required to get drunk and ride the donkey at the next meeting. :D

I've had to address these issues with my 400's..

Engine: two of my K532's powered 400's broke a rod before I acquired them, which is actually why I bought them. The price was right even after replacing the Kohlers. I only paid what the deck was worth for one of them. The other one was part of a package deal (deck, model 50 blower, 4 way 54" blade). It has a really low hours K582 now that was about half the cost of a repower. The other one has a 23 HP Vanguard. I like the 24 HP Honda engines too. I'll take either. Can't get the Predator clones here though because of an emissions issue.

Driveshaft: if it still has the original one, expect to replace it. Look for play in the knuckles and reddish dust on them. They aren't serviceable. I made a new greaseable shaft last year for about $150. I'm in Ontario and shipping was a little spendy for the knuckles, plus the currency exchange is about 30%. You can no doubt do much better on the cost. I'd estimate a hundred bucks in the US but don't quote me on that.

Oil cooler: I only have one (out of 4) that wasn't damaged by the driveshaft knuckle. If the bolts for the cooler loosen up it will drop down and the knuckle will start grinding on it. That can wreck the tubing pretty quick. I bought a brand new one when I did a resto on that 400 (ouch $). My 400 with the Vanguard has plenty of clearance though.
Edit: the Vanguard actually sits higher than it should. The rear mounting points for the cradle are 1" too tall so I put spacers under the front mounts instead of shortening the rear mounts. So if it was sitting where it should be there wouldn't be much clearance for the cooler.

This is what happens to a cooler because the bolts were loose. I had one that was even worse than this but no holes in the line yet. I replaced it with a better one but I didn't get rid of it. It's on the Just In Case shelf where I keep stuff I might need but likely won't.
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Steering linkage (bushings, bearings). Another PITA type of task but not expensive. It's actually pretty easy if you have the tractor apart. Some of the tie rod ends will likely need attention.

Steering valve: about 10 bucks in parts. Two seals and a backup washer. Easy to do except for the inner seal. Sometimes there's rust on the rearward end of the valve and there could be some pitting. Two of mine had that but were still good enough to continue using. Edit: forgot about the spring breaking sometimes. That info was courtesy of Mr Wizard (aka Harold Goff). He has detailed knowledge and experience with 400's. If the manual says one thing and Harold says something different I automatically assume the manual is wrong.

Steering cylinder: I have never had any issues with them but they're the same as any other cylinder as far as wear and tear (hoses and seals) goes. I had one break the tie rod end where it bolts to the tractor.

Hydro control linkage: mostly just a case of replacing bushings, but the pins and the shock absorber might also need attention. I also replaced the lever itself on one 400. The original one was worn where they pivot at the bottom. Made the new one using rod of the applicable size. Definitely helped. I consider it a must-do when rebuilding the linkage. Otherwise you might not see any improvement in the lever control.

Front PTO bearing: simple and inexpensive (relatively speaking). Same bearing as the deck spindles.

PTO idler pulley/linkage: the pulley can require replacement (same as any other idler) and the linkage gets loosey goosey after a while. PITA to fix but not spendy at all.

PTO cable: they can break. A new cable was about 60 bucks + tax last time I checked, so about $70 total. They have no doubt increased in price since then. A thick-ish clothesline cable works great as an alternative. Just gotta make a loop on each end and presto. And cable clamps are only about 2 bucks per so that was an easy call, for me anyway.

Hydro pump. I replaced the pump on one 400. It was noisy (howls somewhat) but still in working condition. I have it stashed in my JD parts cabinet ..just in case. The pump to transaxle gaskets are NLA so I made one. They're like valve cover gaskets. No pressure to worry about. Just a case of sealing up the mating surfaces.

Hope that helps.
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When you say the engine scattered, can you elaborate exactly? These engines are better and more powerful than they get credit for and I’d fix it before I ever thought about repowering. Might take some time but a repower is not a straightforward drop in either.

here’s one I did two years ago
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Having been owned by you dad and grandfather makes this a great project. My dad turned 100 last March and passed in April. How I wish I had a couple of his old wheel horses. The older you get the more important it becomes. Keep us posted and some pics would be great. BTW, I'm north central Indiana as well.
Tom
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Great clean up job Temp. (y) I really like doing that kind of thing.

You're right about the kits. My 420 didn't get one. The 23 HP Vanguard was installed kinda willy nilly. Works fine but the muffler pipes are unique.

My Vanguard 400 has an SEW kit. The engine didn't sit level because the cradle was an inch too high at the back, which caused the PTO belt and driveshaft alignment to be out. The rest of the kit was fine. I raised the front using spacers rather than modify the rear mounts. Path of least resistance you might say. Worked out good though.

a repower is not a straightforward drop in either.
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I clicked on the link to Isavetractors. Holy Cow! That pricing seems impossibly cheap. Now that is going to have to be an option for a future project. R&R's legacy 400 would seem to be a good project for a restoration of the original engine.
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I clicked on the link to Isavetractors. Holy Cow! That pricing seems impossibly cheap. Now that is going to have to be an option for a future project. R&R's legacy 400 would seem to be a good project for a restoration of the original engine.
I would guess these must be aftermarket parts, not genuine Kohler. Doesn't mean they are bad though. I have used the aftermarket kits on multiple one cylinder Kohlers, with good results.
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isave tractors has some nice stuff. I think he has a video on YouTube about a 400.
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I would guess these must be aftermarket parts, not genuine Kohler. Doesn't mean they are bad though. I have used the aftermarket kits on multiple one cylinder Kohlers, with good results.
They are, I believe they may be china manufactured but the guy and company is from Maine if I remember correctly.
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Just one off shore rebuild kit for me but it's still working good. I did a K341 in a Allis Chalmers 416 way back in 2014. I haven't done very many rebuilds so the fact that it starts and runs good means the parts must be pretty good quality. They should probably ask me to be their spokesman and say stuff like, "Hey these kits are so easy even I can do it!" :D. I don't speak Chinese worth a shlt but that never stopped me before.

I would guess these must be aftermarket parts, not genuine Kohler. Doesn't mean they are bad though. I have used the aftermarket kits on multiple one cylinder Kohlers, with good results.
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I had a 400 several years ago that was a great tractor. The engine sucked and blew up. New long block from Ma Deere for 1500.00 and for the next 332 hours was awesome. It broke a connecting rod also. Legend has it that some of the dipsticks were not correctly marked. I can't confirm that. If it were mine, I would fix it If possible. Since you are in North Central In.I would contact Culver Power in Culver In. for advice and parts. These guys are great. They are very busy so it might take some time to get your project going again. I'm also in North Central In. and have worked with these guys on many occasions. They are good. Jim.
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Hey pace_car stop posting so much :D.
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I had a 400 several years ago that was a great tractor. The engine sucked and blew up. New long block from Ma Deere for 1500.00 and for the next 332 hours was awesome. It broke a connecting rod also. Legend has it that some of the dipsticks were not correctly marked. I can't confirm that. If it were mine, I would fix it If possible. Since you are in North Central In.I would contact Culver Power in Culver In. for advice and parts. These guys are great. They are very busy so it might take some time to get your project going again. I'm also in North Central In. and have worked with these guys on many occasions. They are good. Jim.
Thanks for the info. Culver is about 30 minutes north of me.
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