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Don,

Not sure if this is helpful in your particular case, but the instructions for putting the Onan in a 317 definitely calls for cuting out the old mounts as seen in these pages, steps 11 and 12:
View attachment Onan in 317 re-power instructions.pdf

I had a 317 with the Onan in it and the part to do that conversion are well detailed in the parts catalog as seen here:
View attachment Onan repower kit section from 317 PC1698.pdf

..for what it is worth, as stated it may not apply in your case at all...

Chuck
 

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Very good write up. But could you be more specific with the 1.125 clutch? I'm perfectly OK with updating to a more modern PTO clutch but most of those listings refer to mower model numbers and I haven't had any luck so far getting info from any of the new suppliers. If you know of a specific clutch that works well on the Command/317 install it would be very helpful.
I have no idea how to find this write up. Can someone give me a name for the write up or direct me to it.
Don
 

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Very good write up. But could you be more specific with the 1.125 clutch? I'm perfectly OK with updating to a more modern PTO clutch but most of those listings refer to mower model numbers and I haven't had any luck so far getting info from any of the new suppliers. If you know of a specific clutch that works well on the Command/317 install it would be very helpful.
In my opinion, the easiest approach that will give you the functionality for the cheapest price is to use the Ogura clutch that's used on tractors like the 318. To mount this on a 1 1/8 shaft, you should first read my write-up of mounting this clutch on a Briggs Vanguard:
https://www.wfmachines.com/forums/s...guard-Engine?highlight=briggs+stratton+clutch

Then, you'll need an adapter similar to the one I describe and show in this write-up, with only one difference - instead of adapting 1" to 1 7/16, you'll need to get one machined to go from 1 1/8 to 1 7/16. I'm not sure of what the PTO side engine face looks like on the engine you're using, but you should be able to follow my measurement approach for the standoffs etc that I used for the vanguard and adapt that to the Kohler - there should be a lot of similarity and you should have one pattern of bolt holes that should be the same as what I use and that's the same as is on the 18 hp Onan.

Have a look at this approach and you can let me know if you have any questions or need clarifications on what I did.

I had tried to look for the clutch part numbers that JD used and found that I could either buy a used clutch from a 318 on ebay or JD dealership. The part you'll find difficult to match to the OEM assembly will be the pulley - that makes it unique to JD. If you choose to buy something new, have a look at the the 1.125 PTO shaft clutches that Ogura or others like them have and pick one with the nearest pulley size. You'll need to get a different length belt for mower deck, snow blower, etc., but it will work perfectly well. Let me know which direction you'd like to go and maybe I can help you make a decision.
 

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I replaced a P218 Onan w/ the 18 hp Magnum used the Onan replacement mounting plate just drilled new bolt holes were needed once I found out where the motor would set , had to make the drive shaft longer and found the adaptor on e-bay to connect the drive shaft. came out good Iam pleased with the end results and the power it has. good luck with yours. Dave
 

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In my opinion, the easiest approach that will give you the functionality for the cheapest price is to use the Ogura clutch that's used on tractors like the 318. To mount this on a 1 1/8 shaft, you should first read my write-up of mounting this clutch on a Briggs Vanguard:
https://www.wfmachines.com/forums/s...guard-Engine?highlight=briggs+stratton+clutch

Then, you'll need an adapter similar to the one I describe and show in this write-up, with only one difference - instead of adapting 1" to 1 7/16, you'll need to get one machined to go from 1 1/8 to 1 7/16. I'm not sure of what the PTO side engine face looks like on the engine you're using, but you should be able to follow my measurement approach for the standoffs etc that I used for the vanguard and adapt that to the Kohler - there should be a lot of similarity and you should have one pattern of bolt holes that should be the same as what I use and that's the same as is on the 18 hp Onan.

Have a look at this approach and you can let me know if you have any questions or need clarifications on what I did.

I had tried to look for the clutch part numbers that JD used and found that I could either buy a used clutch from a 318 on ebay or JD dealership. The part you'll find difficult to match to the OEM assembly will be the pulley - that makes it unique to JD. If you choose to buy something new, have a look at the the 1.125 PTO shaft clutches that Ogura or others like them have and pick one with the nearest pulley size. You'll need to get a different length belt for mower deck, snow blower, etc., but it will work perfectly well. Let me know which direction you'd like to go and maybe I can help you make a decision.
Thanks again. I was hoping you had a specific clutch that worked with this engine. I have done several 317 conversions using the Magnums and I'm aware of the adaptors you refer to. They work. But I'm not real happy with them. Especially the custom step key you usually have to use. To get things right, it takes a bit more than just sliding the adaptor over the shaft. In the end you end up with another surface to wear under the toughest load of the machine and after a few hundred hours it's evident the crankshaft and keyways suffer. I have already had a keyway rock out of one Magnum crankshaft using these. In the case of the 317 I don't believe a lot of the conversions involve the Onan engine. Much of the info found on these sites refer to the 317 Onan's and one needs to pay attention as they are quite different. In the case original KT engines, The shaft size is 1" and use the Ogura clutch although I have run across a Warner a time or two. That's what I have with this install. No adaptor bushings are available for this combo as the shell of the adaptor would be paper thin under the bearing at 1/32". I've tried to hunt alternative bearings to the metric 6206's with a smaller ID but none exist. The driven disc would be an easy bore out. The Ogura does bolt directly to the Command engine but the mount holes usually need to be tapped out depending on the spec number and the shaft looks to be about a 1/2" too long. No big deal. Although to cinch the clutch down properly one needs to either cut the shaft or make another bushing similar to what is found on the 317 KT's under the front bolt. So, that leaves me with purchasing a used clutch, which folks are very proud of, and an adaptor, again not that cheap or a new clutch.

As I mentioned numerous times, this is just an experiment for me using what was a parted 317 frame. I've got several things going on at the same time including the H3 hydraulics and 400 power steering. (Done my way) That being said, there is, as in most of these swaps, a limit to the funds I want to dump in it. It is unlikely that this will become my everyday tractor. But who knows? When and if any of this works I'll likely transfer the setup to a better machine. Hence I'm not real anxious to invest in a new and expensive Ogura PTO clutch at this point. So, my option is the cheaper aftermarkets that are showing up these days, some as low as $99 bucks. Or, track down a burned out PTO from a 318, buy another bushing kit, or make own. My clutch coil is fine but at $75 to $100 bucks per hour machine shop time prices a lot fabrication out.

I guess I'm sort of high jacking the original post but again, it should be noted that converting to a Command in the 317 with Onan conversions are a quite different install than a stock 317 KT or Magnum machines. Others who take this on may benefit from that experience. Once you start digging into this, the kit prices seem much more reasonable. That is if you want to stick $2400 bucks in a $1000 machine. And they don't seem to offer a install kit only. Too
 

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Joe,

I admire your tenacity and your thoroughness in addressing this engine swap. Looks like you have built up an experience base on similar swaps for the 317, and yes -- starting as you are now with a frame that previously had an Onan engine installed with the dealer kit is a different animal. I have no valuable input on your choices of the front PTO arrangement, but agree that a thin walled conversion busing is not an ideal approach.

Adding power steering to a 317 is of general interest to the members of this forum, so be sure to document it and perhaps start another thread when you get to that point. Most are aware of the Brantley accessory system, and there have been some full custom approaches that used the 318 steering valve, so "your way" with the 400 components will be valuable to read about.

As i mentioned earlier, I had a 317 with a low-hour Onan dealer conversion pass through my herd some time ago. My wife did not like it much, because it did not have the power steering of either of my 322 tractors or my 318. Because the 317 also did not have the hydro disconnect coupled to the brake pedals, she was uncomfortable about panic stops on our many hillside edges on that property. The live PTO on the rear tiller was another issue she noted as a difference/drawback...as you needed to turn around and use arm strength to engage its tiller versus the simple dash switch of the 322. So I ended up selling that 317 and its attachments (the tiller was very low hours) and am sure it made the buyer a great tractor for his uses. Just some observations about the 317 that might factor into making one of these somewhat capable machines into a "do it all' everyday tractor as you called it. The next tractor that I added to my herd was a diesel X495 with AWS and 3-pt and that was a different class of machine entirely...

Chuck
 

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Thanks Chuck, I am a putzer for sure. Not just tractors but aircraft, computers, carpentry and boats. (And most any other thing that pops up!) I enjoy doing these things much more than actually using the machines. Going back to my very first real job, I had a boss with the mindset to "fix it so good it will never break again". I'm now getting a little bored just bringing 317/318's back to life so I though to would take that approach with this project. And, with an engineering background, it's in our nature to do just that. So, like I said, not only the Command engine swap, but the 400 steering mounting things as Deere did rather than as most do, make and install a heavier drive shaft, add the N3 hydraulics but with rear capability without a diverter valve, hydraulic lift for the tiller and now after reading you last post, I think I will add a rear electric clutch for that tiller. Your wife has a point! My wife won't touch it either! But I never use the brakes for that reason anyway. Just side hills and turning. I have no intentions of selling for profit or for that matter even using it. I still have two of these tractors that work fine. Just keeping myself occupied in retirement in my air conditioned garage.

I'm always willing to share and help. I understand I have a management (technical) writing style and hopefully I don't step on too many toes when posting. That is certainly not my intentions. And, I always learn things reading these posts. It's a two way street. So thanks again.

Joe
 

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I replaced a P218 Onan w/ the 18 hp Magnum used the Onan replacement mounting plate just drilled new bolt holes were needed once I found out where the motor would set , had to make the drive shaft longer and found the adaptor on e-bay to connect the drive shaft. came out good Iam pleased with the end results and the power it has. good luck with yours. Dave
It's hard to find folks who went from Onan's back to Kohlers. Usually installing Magnums in a 317 is a bolt in job. Just PTO and ignition issues. The PTO the hardest to overcome. Electrical is simple aside from maintaining the few safety's on the machine. Which I learned the hard way is a good idea. Tipped one over once. Not a fun experience. If you remember, could you tell us how you did the PTO and driveshaft? Glad it worked out.
 

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Just wanted to update to this thread. I settled on installing new "OX" brand PTO clutches on the most recent applications. They are very simple to install and priced very affordable around $150. Simply order the shaft and pully size. They mount on the shaft directly and only an anti rotation pin needs to be installed. Very easy to do. No adaptor plates, no gap or maintenance issues. I've now installed three on both Command and Magnum Kohler's. The first now having approx. 100 hrs. pulling a 50" deep deck mower with no issue. There are other brands made in a similar style. These are the current clutch/brakes found on most newer mowers.
 
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Looks like the Riddler was only joking around and here for a short stay.
 

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Looks like the Riddler was only joking around and here for a short stay.
I think you are correct. I just toss that up for others who may come across these dead-end posts for info. To me, it's very frustrating when searching for info to read three of four pages and end up with nothing. So, in most cases, my posts are aimed at future readers and not the original thread starter.
 
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