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Discussion Starter #1
I was not planning on starting a thread on this tractor yet but a post in “What did you do to your tractor today" will get lengthy.

Tractor is a 1983 318 s/n M00318X226695. Engine is a B43G-GA018/40608, s/n L823643348

I bought the tractor from member Rick up in southwestern Michigan. Tractor is rough looking but after running some Seafoam through the fuel tank it purrs like a kitten. Smoke or oil usage does not seem to be an issue but I have very little run time on the tractor. It is being setup to be my snow clearing machine for this winter since my 826 walk-behind work has not been started. Tractor will have model 49, also from Rick, installed until model 49 I am restoring is completed.

Phase 1 is to complete service work to make tractor usable for winter service. This is fixing broken or non-functional parts of the tractor. I am keeping a spreadsheet on all the work being completed and cost. I need to edit that list so will publish here when Phase 1 is complete.

Here are some photos ....
 

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Following...I just picked up a 1983 318 with Cozy Cab and 47 blower in August and need to do the same process.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
HI Scott. This tractor looked rough but started and ran well except for surge in engine. SeaFoam took care of the surge. Appearance was bad because of rust, dirt, and oil/grease. Sheet metal was all there but not dented. Electrically everything worked except tail lights. Tail lights did not work because of disconnected ground wire shown in first set of photos. I have most of parts needed to finish first phase which is get engine fully serviced and everything working. Still waiting for some breather parts then and I can finish up the engine. In the meantime I am cleaning up the frame starting at front of tractor and working my way rearward.

So far I have

  • changed out broken fuel shut off valve,
  • replaced air filter and foam pre-filter. Originals were quite dirty.
  • changed engine oil and filter.
  • changed fuel filter
  • installed a new fuel cap/gauge
  • installed a steering wheel spinner
  • installed a flip-over seat base I had on hand. I have new seat on order.
  • Electrically I need to change connector for seat switch to wire up the flip-over base switch. I have parts to do this.
  • Breather parts should be in Friday.
  • I need to replace some of the fuel hoses that are cracked and could fail so will be replaced now.
  • There is a leak under right front hydraulic couplers I have new o-rings. If that does not fix leak will replace couplers.
  • Need to change transmission/hydraulic oil and filter but right rear axle seal is leaking so oil and filter change will be completed when that is repaired.
  • I have front wheels off the tractor for repaint. Right is finished. Left to do yet
  • Cleaning up and repainting front part of frame including front axle and steering components.
  • Oversize car battery installed by PO does not fit battery tray. oversize battery really spins it over but gotta go. Need correct battery which I have not picked up yet. Will be a WalMart battery. I've always had good luck with these batteries.
 

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Following along. It’ll be interesting to see a tally of your repairs
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Right now with axle seal I am a few cents over $880 for tractor and parts. Still need battery, probably some paint, and maybe some decals. Decals are expensive so I am trying to tape over decals to save them. Hope to keep cost under $1000 for tractor and parts.

I have an H3 valve and levers I think are off a 420 that would be nice on the 318. Don't remember where I got them but should put them on now while I have tractor apart.

  • I would also like to install Ruegg 3PH. There is another $550.
  • Ag tires would be nice. I have a set of 23x10.5-12's over in storage but then I would lose the rimguard filled turfs which are better in snow than the Ag's.
  • I also have a set of V61's on fresh power coat rims over in storage. I think they are metric bearing rims from 332 I just sold.
  • Saving the Ag's and V61's for the 140 project but it is already H3 so could use the components on the 318.
  • I have racks full of options I could add like front quick hitch. I have all the attachments for the quick hitch. Could be fun playing with those.
  • For right now though it will get a model 49 and be my winter machine. If we have a winter.
Gabby
 

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Discussion Starter #6
This is what the front wheels looked like when I brought the tractor home.

I clean these by breaking the bead on both sides so I can stuff newspaper between tire and rim.
  • Rims get sanded with coarse steel wool then with a finer grade.
  • They are then wiped down with paint cleaner.
  • First is a coat of primer ... then 2 coats of John Deere yellow.
  • I only use John Deere spray paint.
 

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Gabby, a trick I use for painting wheels is to use an old t-shirt. Put shirt over tire and slide the wheel through the neck. It’s quick and reusable.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Thanks Nate. I'll give that a try. Right now I don't think I have a T-shirt in my rag box.

I think I will dig out the H3 valve and levers to see if they can be installed without a lot of work. One of these days it's going to snow here and will need the tractor for snow duty ... Gabby
 

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Discussion Starter #10
When I pick up parts on order at dealer I think I will order axle seal. That and I need to pick up battery. Except for paint and decals I should have everything to finish the job unless I get carried away. When tractor is apart is the time to look at installing H3. Wheels, 3PH, and attachments can be added at anytime.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Axle seal for right side ordered and should be able to pick up tomorrow.

Work has slowed on the 318 as I am back to work on my building at rural property. I reinstalled the hood and engine shields and parked it back in the corner.

I will try to do some night work on it when I come in the country so I can progress with the project. Some minor work that can be completed and I have the parts for are to:
  • paint the left front wheel
  • replace tie rod ball joints
  • replace the the breather tube and filter
  • there is linty material showing in left spark plug opening. Means I need to remove and clean under tins.
  • Right side quick coupler still leaking oil. Will replace o-ring but I do not have much luck with this fixing leaks. Will probably end up replacing coupler
  • Far left coupler difficult to operate; will probably replace that one also.
  • While couplers are out I need to finish painting front of frame.
When these are all finished I will sand and paint engine shields, hood, and hood supports to finish up front of tractor.

Pictures will be a chore for awhile. Bear with me. Nikon CoolPix 775 given to Laurie and I 15 yrs ago bit the big one. Dust cap fell off a coupe yrs ago and recently the On/Off dial fell off. This was also the shutter button. Still worked in this condition for awhile. Now dead in the water. I am trying to learn how to use CoolPix S6100 we bought to replace the old camera. That was 7-8 years ago. Going to take some time to become proficient with this new tool.

Gabby
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
No heat in new shed so spent the day doing more cleanup on the 318. I pulled the hydraulic parts bin down off storage rack. I two H3 control valve/lever setups. One is from a 140. The levers will not work on a 318 ... mounts are different. The other set appears as though it should fit a 318: Levers have same mount as H2 setup. It will be awhile before I will be working in that part of the tractor.

  1. Cleaned up and painted the left rim. Both front rims are now completed.
  2. Installed new ball joints on the tierod
  3. Tightened the axle-to-frame adjusters about 1/2 turn on each side. Not a lot of play in axle pivot bushing. Going to leave it be for now.
  4. Front wheels seem to have excessive amount of lateral movement on the axles (estimate 1/8"). Closed frame tractors used spring washer M63239 ($14.43/washer). Thinking about adding those to take up some of the lateral movement.
  5. Did some more engine cleanup. Removed the tins over the heads and cleaned up fins. Engine is covered with oil but is not leaking. Unsure if oil is breather residue. I ordered new breather gasket that seals breather to block. Will install the new gasket , breather tube, and filter tomorrow then put covers/tins back on the engine and proceed with clean up/painting. I will probably power wash the engine next spring. I need to put hours on the tractor to see if it is going to use oil and need rebuild. If so engine will get complete clean up at that time.
Question

  1. Would like to hear from someone who has replaced front axle bushings to tighten fit of spindle to bushing. Bushings are still available from Deere but not spindles. What other alternatives do I have.
Will get you some more photos tomorrow.
 

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Gabby,

If your 318 is early enough to have the 1.000 inch spindles, you might look for some later metric spindles if the kingpin wear is not tolerable in what you have now. I recall threads on this site that spoke to both bushing/spindle swaps and to complete front axle transplants. Of course, you would need the later metric hubs/wheels in front as well...so this would be a rather expensive and parts intensive substitution -- but at least it is an alternative to any "unobtainium" parts from the older models.

Chuck
 

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Front wheels seem to have excessive amount of lateral movement on the axles (estimate 1/8"). Closed frame tractors used spring washer M63239 ($14.43/washer). Thinking about adding those to take up some of the lateral movement.
Would worn bearings cause some of this lateral movement?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I would think worn bearings would cause axial looseness but not lateral. I can shim them to reduce some of the lateral movement. Just wonder if anyone else saw this issue and what their solution was.

Doug, I will also pull the right spindle and mic the bushing area on the spindle to see if that could be a fix. Problem I see with this solution is the part of the spindle not in bushing would be oversize and not allow clearance on a 25mm bushing. All I can do is mic the parts and see what the looseness is. Or just allow it to be loose.

Thanks .... Gabby
 

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Gabby, looking back, you mentioned this 318 is a 1983 model, so the original spindles would be of the 1.000" era. (s/n 222001-372595) The bushing inside dia. listed in JD Parts is 1.005". Do you have mics or calipers to measure the spindles for wear at the bushing contact area? You may find most of the wear is in the bushing and the spindle wear to be minimal. I don't know the factory spec. for the spindle, but could hazard a guess of .9995-1.000". So a new bushing and spindle clearance would be almost .005", not counting the press fit reduction. Would seem reasonable for a greasable shaft.
The metric bushings are .985" I.D. O.D., flange, and O.A.L. are nearly the same as the 1.000" bushing and would fit the axle. However, machining the spindles and reaming the bushings to fit might be an expensive alternative. Wear on the spindle and bushings would likely be uneven, i.e. elliptical (egg shaped), and presents problems. Sure you already know this as this isn't your first GT! lol

Edit: I was still typing while you posted the answers to my questions, Gabby.

tommyhawk
 

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This is what the front wheels looked like when I brought the tractor home.

I clean these by breaking the bead on both sides so I can stuff newspaper between tire and rim.
  • Rims get sanded with coarse steel wool then with a finer grade.
  • They are then wiped down with paint cleaner.
  • First is a coat of primer ... then 2 coats of John Deere yellow.
  • I only use John Deere spray paint.
A professional painter I worked with years ago taught me to use playing cards to paint rims with tires on them. No need to break the bead. Just wedge them one by one between the tire and rim all the way around and spray. You can pull them out when finished and reuse them too.
 

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A professional painter I worked with years ago taught me to use playing cards to paint rims with tires on them. No need to break the bead. Just wedge them one by one between the tire and rim all the way around and spray. You can pull them out when finished and reuse them too.
sounds like a pretty neat little trick. Do you pull them out right after spraying or do you wait for the paint to dry and harden?
 

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sounds like a pretty neat little trick. Do you pull them out right after spraying or do you wait for the paint to dry and harden?
Can you use them to play cards after spraying them? Should would lend to some interest games.

I would think before, so you don't peel the paint whether tacky or dry (might even leave some card residue on rim).
 
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