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sounds like a pretty neat little trick. Do you pull them out right after spraying or do you wait for the paint to dry and harden?
From my experience it worked best if you pull them out while the paint is still a little soft.
 

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From my experience it worked best if you pull them out while the paint is still a little soft.
Good to know :thumb:

Can you use them to play cards after spraying them? Should would lend to some interest games.

I would think before, so you don't peel the paint whether tacky or dry (might even leave some card residue on rim).
That was my thoughts but some cards have wax on them so I figured I’d get the answer instead of guessing and having a 50/50 chance of getting it wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
Took the sheet metal off the front again and was going to start sanding to paint hood support, grille, engine shields, and hood.

Instead went to the rear of the machine and started cleanup in the rear. Leaky right rear axle seal and taillight ground were known issues that need repair. Also found that someone has removed the lift cylinder lockout valve, left rear brake drum has the end of a spring sticking out the back side, and I broke the sight gage tube. Tube had been cobbled with a clear tube that was brittle and broke while I was cleaning oily residue from the tube to the top fitting on transaxle. Adding these items to repair list.

Question ... Is the lockout important if I am not going to mount a mower deck? Valve is $112 from Deere or $50 from Auxiliary Hydraulics. I plan to install the H3 valve/levers. H3 would be hyd circuit for lift cylinder to activate 3PH/pair of rear couplers. Too many parts on the inventory shelf. Would a diverter valve work better than H3 set up? I am not sharpest knife in the drawer when it comes to hydraulics.

One more item ... steering cylinder rod guide seems to have a slow leak. Is cylinder repairable or do I replace?
 

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Amost every thing Hydraulic on these tractors can be serviced/repaired from what I have read on these forums.
 

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Gabby. With an H3 no need at all for cyl lockout valve...inner lever, front right ports. ctr lever, front left ports. outer lever, rockshaft. If for some reason you add rear outlets for ??, they could be operated from outer lever and a lockout valve could be needed.

Can't give any hands-on info on steering, but I agree with N2.

Have fun, that's what it's all about, Bob
 

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One more item ... steering cylinder rod guide seems to have a slow leak. Is cylinder repairable or do I replace?
The cylinder is repairable by the cut apart, replace the seals and then weld back together method. I have not done this repair but with the correct tools it is doable. It is the way it was made in the beginning. And it helps to have a way to accurately cut the cylinder at the opposite end of where the rod comes out. Some have used a lathe and some have used an angle grinder. I think the lathe would be more accurate. Also you must control the heat when re-welding so it doesn't damage the new seals. With the equipment I have and my welding skills, I would not personally try it, I would find people to help me.
 
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Discussion Starter #27
I have been working on my new building so work has slowed on the 318.

I did order firewall insulation from John Lange that I need to install. I figure it will be easier to install H3 vavle and lever with engine out of frame and as long as the engine is out of the frame I may as well install new insulation. Currently there is no insulation. Anything else I should do while the engine is out?

Mother Nature is showing us how much she loves us right now. Tomorrow morning I need to fix the transmission sight level gage and put all the sheet metal back on so I can clean up 5-6" of snow.
 

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Gabby I have replaced the front spindle bushings on my 420, not too hard to do. Most of the wear I had was on the bushings instead of the spindle, hopefully yours will be too.

I got them out with a hammer and rod for the bottom and a slide hammer for the top ones. New ones were pressed in with a scrap piece of acme threaded rod, nuts, and washers.

Don't forget to tighten up the axle wear plate bolts too, took a lot of slop out of the front end on mine.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Thanks for the feedback. I have already tightened the axle wear plate bolts about 1/2 - 3/4 turn. Any tighter and I had interference in axle pivot. I ordered tie rod ends from ebay. Wrench slipped when installing one and pulled the ball out of the socket. I should have know better and order Deere parts. One of the original had a small amount of looseness and other was still snug. Going to reuse them.

Worst looseness was rims on axle shaft end play ... Need to measure and find correct thickness washer/shim.

I haven't done anything with bushings yet ... Gabby
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Took the day off working on my new shop to do some work in town. Was going to work on the 318 but ended up spending the day sanding and painting model 49 parts. I did start making a list of some parts I need but difficult to make list if assemblies are not tore apart so unsure what you need. I need a 2-3 day time period to do some major repairs/mods.

Need to pull engine to install firewall insulation I got from John.
  • while engine is out need to clean up and paint frame.
  • with firewall out should be open to remove H2 valve & levers and install H3
  • clean up harness/hose area under electrical box.
  • remove fender deck and console side panels to clean areas under panels.
  • clean and paint rear differential
  • repaint panels
  • random electrical work
  • probably best time to replace leaking axle seal.
  • with axle disassembled see what the rear brakes need.
I think I need a full week for all this.
 
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Discussion Starter #31
Last night I slipped out to the garage and installed the rear axle oil level sight gage. Closed frame tractors use a breather (AM36965) in the sight gage tubing. Confirmed that open frame tractors do not use this breather.

Finishing up model 49 snow thrower which will temporarily be mounted on this tractor so this project priority is increasing.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Fed UP (combination of FedEx and UPS) delivered 3PH lower lift arms, pins, and retaining chains.
  • I roughly assembled to make sure I had all parts when I install it.
  • Won't be installed for a while because I need to replace leaking axle seal and rebuild brakes before I can install this.
  • Need to pull engine to install fire wall insulation.
  • While engine is out I also plan to install H3 valve and levers.
I have the parts now I need the time to work on it.
 

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That’ll be a nice 318 when done.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
I have to finish up model 49 restoration before I do a major teardown on the 318. Working on new shop at rural property and Steve says 4 weeks I will be back to work at the greenhouse. I am busy but I need this tractor to do spring landscaping at the property so it does have priority. Greg, yes I will shut some photos of the seal replacement project. I plan to do more disassembly than needed to replace the seal but tractor needs cleanup/paint so that will occur at the same time ... Gabby
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Should be working on new shop today but decided to get ambitious on the 318 instead. I tore down the left side brake to replace broken spring. Spring was visible protruding out back of brake between the drum and backing plate. This is not the side the seal is leaking on but I am tearing it all the way down where you would unbolt the axle housing from differential. Greg. these photos will cover most of process to replace axle seal. Photos included. BTW, this is the first time I have done this so not an expert. Just not afraid to tear things apart. Will try to keep photos in order of teardown.

  1. Remove wheel ... chore on this tractor as wheel is filled with beet juice (rim guard)
  2. Flatten the lock washer and remove the axle nut.
  3. If there is a lot of drum wear from contact with brake shoe friction pad you will need to remove the rubber plug on bottom of brake backing plate and reach in with a brake tool to back off the star wheel that spreads the bottom of the two brake shoes (photo shows plug on bottom of right side wheel). With this adjusted together you should be able to pull the drum off the axle. I was fortunate that I did not have to loosen the star wheel. I did have to work the drum on/off and wiggle side to side numerous times before it slid off. This is probably the most difficult task to service the brakes.
  4. With drum removed I cleaned the brake components then removed the brake shoes. There is a photo of broken and new spring. This is as far as I would have to go but want to cleaned backing plate, brake actuator, axle housing, and frame. Components are quite rusty. Will not remove axle housing but clean up in place.
  5. Four bolts secure backing plate to axle housing. They can be removed now.
  6. The brake actuator needs to be rotated 90° to the rear so you need to remove the lock nut from the brake adjusting rod. Remove bushing and spring from rod. You can now rotate the actuator to the rear and lift the backing plate off the actuator.
  7. To clean up the actuator and frame I removed the two bolts that tie the frame to the rear axle.
  8. That is as far as I am tearing this side apart. Time to clean and paint parts and reassemble.
Tractor is a 1983, first year for 318. PC shows some parts that were not on my tractor; a backing plate cover and some seals that I assume were used on later models to keep debris from entering the brake area. I am reassembling without those parts as I suspect they were never on this tractor. The left side friction disks look like new and will not be replaced. I do not know what I will find on the right side as everything over there is oil soaked from leaky axle seal.

Time to paint and reassemble.
 

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Discussion Starter #38 (Edited)
Most of the brake/hub are reassembled. A couple photos of reassembly.

Still need to reinstall brake linkage (wet paint) and need to paint the rear rim to finish this repair.
 

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Discussion Starter #39 (Edited)
I have to pull the drum off again. Apparently there was some brake service completed on this tractor by a PO. I am finding things were assembled not according tech manual. Tech manual shows service being completed on the right side brake. I am working on left side. I have question on brake adjuster. Photo shows how adjuster was installed. The star wheel is behind the opening to make adjustment. Is this correct? Or do I need to flip the adjuster?

I know on early model autos with drum brakes there was a lever that contacted the star wheel and adjusted it when vehicle was traveling in reverse and you applied the brakes. On those brake systems you could not flip the adjuster. There is no automatic adjustment here so does it matter if I flip the adjuster to get the star wheel in line with opening?
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Photos ...
  • drum removed adjuster flipped and my screw up corrected
  • everything back together, park brake locked, and brake adjusted to 42mm spring length
  • wheel back on and tractor on floor
The only thing I did not do was paint the rear rim. I will remove and paint it when I tear the other side apart to replace the axle seal.

What next? I have to work at rural property tomorrow so do not want to start another major project on the 318. I think I will work on the model 49 snow thrower the rest of the day. I should be able to finish the snow thrower in a couple days if I stay at it.
 

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