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Discussion Starter #41
I had to move the 318 to get a model 49 ST out from behind it. There was a sizeable oil spot under the right tire from leaky seal. That will be the next project on this tractor. Maybe this weekend. Already have a seal. Hope that is all I need. Just looking at the right side brakes and differential I see same issues with previous service. Appears that a PO replaced brake shoes on both sides and reassembly was not correct. Soon to find out for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
To finish out time in garage yesterday I started installing the 3PH. Can only install left side components and bellcrank/upper lift arms as I need to tear the right side brake/axle down to replace axle seal. Hopefully I can finish this this weekend. I am off to my rural property to install loft in shop.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Gotta see the tax man this afternoon so had time to do some more with the 318 this morning. This is prep work to get ready to replace leaky axle seal and install 3ph. Much clean up prior to these jobs is needed. Thirty seven (37) years of grunge under seat deck and gas tank.
  • Removed seat deck ... quite a mess underneath. I am getting impatient to get this tractor done. Seriously thinking of taking deck to have sand blasted and powder coated. Will probably take all metal parts. Hood will get the rattle can.
  • Cleaned up the fuel tank with vacuum and wet rag.
  • IMPORTANT INFO FOR NOVICE MECHANICS (ME):
    • Another lesson learned the hard way. While removing fuel lines from tank fittings one of the lines was difficult to remove. I did not want to cut it because fit length was already tight. Tugged (same as yanked) on the fuel line and pulled the fitting out of the tank.
    • Oh Crap. Significant fuel leakage.
    • Tried to push the fitting back into the tank; would not install so I quickly disconnected other hose and removed tank and set in a position so it would stop leaking fuel.
    • With tank removed looked to see what was needed to put it back together.
    • The fitting that into the tank is a rubber stopper with hole for metal fitting. Removed fitting, pushed the stopper back into the fuel tank, and then pushed the fitting thru the stopper.
    • I would have to believe if you need to remove the fuel tank you can remove the fitting from the stopper if the hose does not want to disengage from the metal fitting. This will leave a smaller mess to clean up.
  • Removed the cylinder actuated bellcrank that raises/lowers the mower deck. This will be replaced with the 3ph bellcrank . The 3ph bellcrank will still raise/lower the mower deck.
  • A PO removed the cylinder shut off valve. Will need to order one from Auxiliary Hydraulics.
  • Time to go see the tax man.
 

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That there is some grundge. Thanks for update, been hectic at my end trying to keep ramen in belly and keeping roof over my house on 1/2 my normal wages.
 

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Making real progress Gabby...given the time constraints. Looking at your pix I flashed back a couple of weeks to when I first took the fender pan off of my relatively new/used 317...nothing but a greasy grunge blob underneath. Lots of rags later it's finally clean.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Keeping the top clean and shiny can be easy but what happens underneath over 40 years is hidden.

I am always my worst enemy when it come to progress. I have to many projects in progress and all are not getting done at the speed I want.

Today I should be down at rural propery installing loft subfloor but I think I will stay home and see if I can get the right side axle seal replaced and get the back half of the tractor cleaned up. Then the only big job left is pull the engine to install H3 valve/levers and replace firewall insulation. I am not going to reinstall the fender deck until H3 is in as unsure what I am going to install on rear. Likely just plumbing and a pair of couplers. Going to order kit and shut off valve from Aux Hyd today.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Just spoke with Aux Hyd Tech Support. I will need to drill mounting holes in frame for coupler mounting bracket. Required only on 1983 as Deere does not provide these holes. Also ordered lift cylinder shutoff valve and power steering hoses. Changing hoses since I also need to replace steering cylinder. Parts ordered and should ship this week.
 

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your doing great Gabby, I wont mention that the first post say's you wanted to go threw and get this tractor done in time to still use it this winter :nada:.

Between this tractor snow blower rebuilds and New building construction you've got a few irons in the fire.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
I was fortunate this winter. Only used the walk behind (Deere 826) one time. Shovel by hand rest of the time. The 318 and the model 49 are both projects I want to finish before spring arrives. The 318 is intended to be a "heavy duty" utility machine for me. Will use it to landscape around new building at rural property.
 

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Gabby, Why the need for cyl lockout valve with H3? I would think inner lever with float to right front outlets, center lever to left front outlets, and outer lever for rockshaft. Just curious. Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #52 (Edited)
Just thinking I would want power down/float functions on 3ph for grading attachments and left front for model 49. Also considering installing 54C on this tractor which would also require power down/float functions. Thinking shutoff or companion valve would be needed to isolate these functions.

Have not started on axle seal yet. Still cleaning up tractor. Running into other issues. Lift cylinder holes severely weather checked and a bad adapter on barrel end hose. So easy to ignore these items but "pay me now or pay me later". Easier to replace now while it is tore down.
 
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Discussion Starter #53
Robert, actually the shutoff valve is easily accessible on running tractor. Could be installed at any time. I am however replacing lift cylinder hoses, fuel lines, and brake shoes which are questionable. These are more difficult to access and since this is a rebuild/restore/refurbish (do not know correct terminology) I will replace these items so I do not have problems later.

I have the right side axle tore down. Still need to remove axle shaft & housing before seal is exposed.

  • It came apart quite easily as everything was well oiled.
  • The axle shaft nut was only finger tight but retained by the locking washer.
  • Brake system was complete. New shoes had been installed on this side also.
  • But the brake shoes (pads) are now totally saturated with oil from leaky seal. New shoes are $76 for a pair. Are these pads beyond providing acceptable service? Can they be cleaned up with anything to take the oil out of the pads?
I'll get more photos after I drain rear axle and disassemble the remainder of axle to replace seal.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Most of the teardown to replace axle seal was explained earlier when I replaced broken brake spring on the left side. To complete the teardown was rather simple.

  • Make sure axle oil is drained before you pull the axle shaft or you will have a mess to clean up/
  • Grab the axle and give it a yank. Outer bearing was not a press fit in outer housing so axle and bearing pulled as one piece.
  • To remove the axle housing remove the two longer 3/4" bolts on bottom of the housing, then remove the 4 shorter upper bolts. Housing can be lifted off and set aside.
  • I had to use a screwdriver in the spacer to remove the spacer.
  • I do not have a two finger puller as described in the tech manual. I use a hook type puller that inserts in opening and pry out the old seal. This puller destroys the old seal.
  • Teardown is complete.
  • To install the new seal I do not have a seal driver so used 3/4" drive socket and extension. Used a 4 lb sledge hammer to drive in the new seal. Combination worked well without damaging the new seal.
  • Inserted the spacer.
  • Now to clean up and paint parts to put back together.
I could not get the drain plug on bottom of axle to loosen so ended up cutting the hose between filter base and axle sump to drain the hydraulic fluid. $23 for a new hose. Will be here Saturday.

Photos are out of sequence. Sorry.
 

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Great explanation and pics Gabby. I need to change left rear seal on my 332 before mowing season. Good to know what to expect before I start.
thanks, Andrew.
 

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Discussion Starter #57 (Edited)
It was first time for me so figured there would be other member who would enjoy seeing what is involved. Not really any special tools required. I do have a brake tool I bought back in the 1960's that I know is in the tool box I bought at the same time. Can't find that tool box. Wide flat screwdriver worked fine.

Andrew, remember is a 1983, the first year for open frame tractors. Just be aware there may be some changes in later models. One thing I know changed is some of the brake linkage.

While I am waiting for parts I will install the 3ph and can provide some photos of that.

Gabby
 

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I needed to clean oil off of a BMW motorcycle dry clutch plate once. A new one was over $100 and I just didn’t want to spend that much.
I placed it in a pie tin with paint thinner or mineral spirits ( can’t remember which ). I repeated this process a couple of times It worked great. The clutch never slipped.

Good Luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
I spoke with local small engine repair person today and he recommended cleaning with either brake cleaner or parts cleaner (mineral spirits). I told him I had already wiped them down with paint thinner and the already felt dryer. I assume you let them soak in the cleaning solution. How long did you let them soak? I would be worried if left to long it would affect adhesive that bonds pad to shoe.

I needed to clean oil off of a BMW motorcycle dry clutch plate once. A new one was over $100 and I just didn’t want to spend that much.
I placed it in a pie tin with paint thinner or mineral spirits ( can’t remember which ). I repeated this process a couple of times It worked great. The clutch never slipped.

Good Luck.
 

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I have had some luck restoring oil soaked brake shoes by soaking them in mineral spirits. After the metal parts had evaporated, I took a propane torch and cooked the asbestos lining. You'll see the oil boil out of the pores and burn off. Have a care doing this!
 
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