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Discussion Starter #101
Started working on the H3 conversion today. Be aware my tractor is a 1983 and therefore considered an early 318. Tractor has a 4 port steering valve with plumbing associated to this valve. The H3 conversion will therefore follow early 420 setups. I have elevated the front of the tractor to be able to get under tractor to work on the valve. Following is the 318 H2 valve. In the tractor it is oriented upside down compared to shown graphic. The in port which is the first hose removed in actually in the lowest corner. Valve graphic is attached pdf file.

  • First step is to disconnect tubing and hoses to remove the H2 valve.
    • Easier to work on disconnecting adapters if you can get the lines and oil filter out of the way.
    • So first step should be to drain transmission oil.
    • Remove the transmission filter
    • Disconnect coupler adapters from lines on front of tractor.
    • Disconnect clamps that hold the lines in position under the engine.
  • Disconnect hose at IN port.
  • Next disconnect the two right front steel lines at the lower work ports A & B. These are the 37° flare fittings connected to straight adapters in work ports.
  • As each tube is disconnected it needs to be swung down out of the way and allowed to drain in a pan.
  • Murphys Law applies here. Every tool/flash light/whatever that is dropped will fall into that pan of oil.
  • Next disconnect the two left front steel lines from the tee's in work parts C & D.
  • Ten disconnect the other two fittings at the tee's. These two connection go to the work ports on the rockshaft cylinder.
  • The last line to disconnect is the fitteing at the OUT post.
  • You should now be able to remove the cylinder. Lower mounting bolt is a breeze. Upper is worst part of the Removal process it helps to have a long 10 mm wrench to reach up to the head of the bolt on the back side of the mounting plate. I have long SAE but not metric wrenches. Need to find alternate wrench.
  • Question: Can I drill a hole in the frame large enough for a 10 mm socket? Sure would make the job easier.
Once the valve is removed I have a nice clear area to do some other maintenace. I will be replacing the fuel lines and the transmission fill tube with new hoses. I also plan to install new couplers on front of tractor.
 

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Discussion Starter #102
Had errands to run yesterday so didn't get much done on the 317. I did pick up fuel hose and transmission filler hose. Today I plan to get these new hoses and fuel tank updates installed. Back half of tractor should then be complete except sheet metal repaint. If time allows I may run into Dubuque today to pick up new couplers for front of tractor and get those installed.

beginning to see light at the end of the tunnel. Big projects needing completion are the H3 installation and pull engine to clean up frame and install firewall insulation. Then paint and finish up.
 

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Discussion Starter #104 (Edited)
Progress:

  • I applied a double layer of camper shell foam tape to frame under the fuel tank.
  • Then installed the new transmission fill tube.
  • Set the fuel tank on the frame and removed the old fuel tank pick up tube/filter and both grommets.
  • Installed new grommets using vaseline to push the grommets into the tank.
  • Vaselne on the fuel tank fittings made installation of those parts a breeze.
  • Again. vaseline in the new fuel tank lines. I was done in less than an hour.
All that is left to do on rear of tractor is wire up the seat safety switch, connect rear coupler lines to control valve, band wiring and hoses, and install fender deck.

Off to get couplers for front of tractor, return some recalled stands to Harbor Freight, and I need a long 10mm wrench to finish removing the H2 control valve.
 

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Discussion Starter #105
Washed the truck, returned stands to Harbor Freight that were recalled, picked up set of long metric wrenches, and bought Pioneer 4050-2 couplers for front of 318. Came home with intention of removing old couplers, painting the frame in coupler area, and then install new couplers.

Oh crap, took the bin with snap ring pliers to rural property to remove cylinders from excavator and skid steer. Came in the house and got lazy. Maybe later I will see if I can at least get the control valve removed.

Tomorrow I get to babysit my youngest grandson. He has started walking since last time we babysat. This ought to be a fun day.
 

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Walking is one step closer to helping restore these old tractors and using them for there intended purpose! Enjoy your day!:thumb:
 
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Discussion Starter #107
Took my Toro back to dealer yesterday. Less than 2 yrs old and having problems. Loved my first Toro with Toro engine. 2nd Toro has Briggs engine. Don't know if I ever want another Briggs engine. I think they are made in China.

Can't mow the front yard with X720. Too much tractor for such a smaller area and too many obstacles. Keep saying I am going to buy green sheep.
 

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Discussion Starter #108
Took my Toro back to dealer yesterday. Less than 2 yrs old and having problems. Loved my first Toro with Toro engine. 2nd Toro has Briggs engine. Don't know if I ever want another Briggs engine. I think they are made in China.
 

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Discussion Starter #109
I did get back out to the garage last night and got the H2 control valve removed.

Laid the H2 and H3 valves and levers side by side to make comparisons for mounting purposes. Not sure I can use either of the two holes for H2 valve for H3 mounting due to link length. Also the arm orentation on the H3 levers is different than the H2. I need to crawl under the old 420 in front of the garage to see how the H3 setup is supposed to be oriented and what adapters are used to attach lines to valve.
 

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Discussion Starter #110
Rainy day in SW Wisconsin so working in garage. I think I will pull the engine to see what needs cleanup and hopefully provides better access to H3 mod. Will update later with photos.

Have a great day ... Gabby
 

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Discussion Starter #111 (Edited)
In the house for supper. Engine is ready to be lifted out of frame. Two bolts to remove that hold oil cooler to firewall but these do not need to be removed to pull engine. After supper I need to find a place to store KT17 on the cherry picker so I can pull the B43 from the 318. It is an oily mess under there. Don't really want to go into engine but will do what I need to seal up leaks.

Replaced the fuel line from fuel pump to shutoff valve ... old, brittle, and cracked.
 

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Discussion Starter #112
The engine is out.

  • Forgot to disconnect starter cable so had one more chore.
  • Removed the firewall so I can clean it and install firewall insulation from John.
  • Removed trans cooler.
  • I now have a clear shot to the H3 valve installation.
Tomorrow most of day will be spent cleaning and planning valve installation. And I have to mow the yard also.
 

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Discussion Starter #113
Cleaned up the firewall today.

  • Tape and adhesive residue was a real chore to remove. Used paint thinner, a wire brush, and 5-6 paper rags.
  • Finished cleaning both sides with coarse and fine steel wool. Wiped down the rear side (opposite side of insulation) with paint thinner.
  • Applied two coats of black paint to rear side.
  • I do not plan on painting front surface under Johns firewall insulation. I think his material will adhere better to unpainted surface.
  • Paint should be dry enough tomorrow to install firewall insulation.
  • Need to clean up transmission cooler and then it can be attached to the firewall.
  • This can then be set aside till ready assemble after H3 is installed.
QUESTION: Driveshaft is more than likely original ... 37 years old. How do I determine if it needs service or do I just go ahead and replace knuckles and bearings?
 

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Discussion Starter #114
You will see a heat gun in the first photo. I tried that to remove tape adhesive but did not work well. Paint thinner and elbow grease worked best.
 

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Gabby, Driveshaft: Clamp in vise with center trunnion roughly vertical & horizontal. Grab outer ends (that attach to engine or hydro) and move up & down, left & right, or even at 45º. ANY amount of play and bearings are starting to go bad. You can also try prying trunnion with large screwdriver or small pry bar.

It's out now, for peace of mind, I'd replace universals and forget about it for the next 30 years! Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #116
Thanks Bob. I plan on replacing the u-joints just because of age. I have replaced these on many Chevy driveshafts in my younger years so process should be similar. I did attempt to remove u-joint from a 317 with bad driveshaft. Trying to beat it out with a mallet was not successful. Will use my hydraulic pressure and appropriate size impact sockets. I have a spare driveshaft if I break something.
 

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FYI Gabby,

It's not really worth it for one driveshaft but they make a dedicated u-joint removing tool now.

https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/u-joint-removal-and-installation-tools

I've never used one, just thought I'd give you something to think about.

Napa has a great adhesive remover. it's called Adhesive Remover...go figure. I used it to remove many decals from the sides of trucks and construction equipment that are bought from other companies. It still takes some elbow work but it takes off even the old dried up sunbaked residue fairly easily without harming any paint that the stuff might be on.
 

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Discussion Starter #118
Nice looking tools but for a one time use I will use my hydraulic press.

Adhesive Remover, I have a can of it around somewhere but couldn't find it.

Thanks ... Gabby
 

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Discussion Starter #119
Haven't pulled the driveshaft off the pump yet; next part of project.

I did get the firewall insulation installed this morning. Thought I had an issue with fitup but I was wrong again. Need to stop these late night hours in the garage.

Need to clean up the oil cooler and install on the firewall but heading for rural property. That should give the insulation adhesive to "bite" the metal surface.

The H3 conversion will be wrote and posted in a separate thread so I can link it to Ryan214's write up. Hopefully the two of us provide members with useful information to proceed with that project.

Cleaned the garage again so I can put the car away. One of these days I'll get the truck back in the garage.
 

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Question about the insulation - I see you transferred some hole locations to it. That implies it is a generic piece that needs custom work to work on whatever it's put on? No big deal, my 318 could likely use use that insulation pad, so I probably need to figure out how to pull the engine so I can address the oil leaks and that would be the time it would happen.

I just wanted to go into the new insulation application with my tool set configured with the needed tools to do that sort of work. I have a good hole punch set, but it doesn't go into the full inch sizes. Using a box cutter is for me like using a circular saw to make a circle.

Nevermind...I worry too much....:good: It's probably not going to happen this summer anyway. I need it to mow with, it's survived for this long without it.

But one more question...is the reason for the insulation to keep the inflow of air at ambient outside temps before it goes into the engine tins? Because the shield itself transfers engine heat to the battery and pedestal area? It seems like it would anyway. Or maybe it's just a sound damper? :unkown:
 
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