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Discussion Starter #121 (Edited)
Holes in the insulation? Not all the holes in the firewall are used so do not need to be in the insulation. Most of the holes are oversize so all you do is slit the insulation and push the cable/wire/hose thru the slit and the insulation seals around it. Same goes for there is extra insulation around the two sides and the top. This insulation is to prevent blowby between the firewall, the hood, and the engine side shields.

Your next question is related to the the first. All these areas are sealed to keep heated air in front of the firewall from being recirculated around the firewall and back into the flywheel opening causing overheating problems. Heated air is supposed to be exhausted out the grill.

Edit: in front of the flywheel is where the transmission oil cooler is mounted. Blocking recirculation of heated air probably helps cooling of transmission oil. This also causes more air to be drawn from under the tractor; the reason you use the "belly screen" to block particles from being sucked up into the cooling circuit.
 

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Holes in the insulation? Not all the holes in the firewall are used so do not need to be in the insulation. Most of the holes are oversize so all you do is slit the insulation and push the cable/wire/hose thru the slit and the insulation seals around it. Same goes for there is extra insulation around the two sides and the top. This insulation is to prevent blowby between the firewall, the hood, and the engine side shields.

Your next question is related to the the first. All these areas are sealed to keep heated air in front of the firewall from being recirculated around the firewall and back into the flywheel opening causing overheating problems. Heated air is supposed to be exhausted out the grill.

Edit: in front of the flywheel is where the transmission oil cooler is mounted. Blocking recirculation of heated air probably helps cooling of transmission oil. This also causes more air to be drawn from under the tractor; the reason you use the "belly screen" to block particles from being sucked up into the cooling circuit.
Got it. Thanks! Makes sense too. I'm still new to working on these so I'll ask uninformed questions and overthink about everything. I really do like to know reasons for why something is. Engineers seldom just add stuff because there's an empty space that needs filling. But, sometimes time proves them wrong on their choice.
 

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Discussion Starter #123 (Edited)
Want to hear the rest of the story?

When you have all the air circulation right and you use a model 49 snow thrower, the heat being blown out the grille heats the discharge chute on the snow thrower causing it to plug. You can fix that by putting louvers on the grille to direct the heat away from the snow thrower.

Or I've seen members who have added a "collector" and attached insulated dryer tubing to bring heat back into a cab. ALA you have heater and defroster in your cab in the winter time. Of course to get the best of the heat circulation you should seal all the openings in the cab.

Air conditioning? That I guess you put in a cart and pull it around behind you.

John Lange, a member here supplies this insulation kit. You tell him what tractor/engine you need the insulation for and he sends a rectanguar piece of insulation with the profile marked. It also has the holes marked. The only holes I opened were for the side shield to firewall mounts and the large diameter for the flywheel cover. As describled earlier there is extra material left to seal the openings. John does a very good job with the material. The only tools I needed was a pair of scissors, a utility knife, and a bottle of Windex. Windex is to spray on your tools to keep the adhesive on the insulation from gumming things and causing them to not work right. The installation was pretty simple. He does supply two kits. One for installation with engine pulled and one for engine in tractor. I think his recommendaton is to pull the engine. Call and talk to John. This contact infomation is posted online here in WFM.
 

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Discussion Starter #124 (Edited)
I finally got back to work on the 318.
  • Replaced all four of the front couplers. Not sure if piping is reusable as is or if modifications are needed so the left side tubes are installed finger tight to the couplers but not sealed.
  • Right side tubes are painted and hanging to dry. The humidity is prolonging drying time. These tubes will also be installed finger tight to check tube to valve fit.
  • I have not installed new orings on the tube-valve fittings because unsure what fittings I need. After these are fit new o-rings will be installed and thread sealer on the threaded fittings.
  • I just finished installing replacement steering cylinder. Original cylinder leaked. Unsure of leak location but will investigate hopefully the leak can be fixed.
  • Installed new steering cylinder lines from Aux Hydraulics.
  • I looked over the electrical bundle under the battery box and it does not seem to be to complicated to remove for clean up. I think I am going to pull the harness's and then take the power washer to the inside of the frame. Still very congested in there so not sure if it will get painted. I would like to.
  • Then comes installing the H3 setup. The setup will be plumbed same as early 420 with 4-port steering valve because this tractor also has 4-port valve.
  • Sorry, posted and I had not added photos.
DSCN1020.JPG DSCN1021.JPG DSCN1024.JPG DSCN1025.JPG DSCN1026.JPG DSCN1027.JPG
 
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Gabby once you have everything back together I will be curious what your opinion is of the AuxHyd power steering lines. I know they claim faster response which would be nice but I am not sure if it would make enough of a difference for the price tag they carry. $67 plus shipping isn't bad but my hoses are in good shape and don't need replacement so it would truly only be an upgrade in performance, if there is any.

Ryan
 

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Discussion Starter #126
Ryan, I will let you know how they work out. I had to question length of the shorter hose because it was shorter than original. Response was that it did not violate hose bend rules?

I replaced the hoses because I replaced the cylinder. I now have two sets of original hoses I will offer for sale when project is finished. I am replacing quite a few items on this project simply because I am working on it now. Pay me now or pay me later.

Gabby
 

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Discussion Starter #127
I need to get back to work on this project. Rural property has been keeping me busy there.
 

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Nice work on the front couplers, and everything so far for that matter. Just did the front couplers on the 322 and it unfortunately renewed my cussin skills learned from Dad...old blue-water sailors are a colorful lot!
 

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Discussion Starter #129
I replaced the couplers on my 317 and know exactly what you are saying about accessing those snap rings. The couplers on this tractor were rusted and one leaked on right side with model 49 installed. I have replaced o-rings before. My experience is that is 50/50 at resolving the problem. I have the engine out so now is the time to replace the couplers. Will probably put used couplers up for sale when project is finished.
 

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I'm a packrat at heart, but the old/rusty couplers I pulled off the 322 didn't rate keeping...chunked em in the trash can. I got a nice used set of couplers on the auction site...off of a 318. They had the two 90-degree fittings, so couldn't pass em up. They cleaned up nicely, then I ordered a new set of O-rings and got them in before I started. If I was really compulsive I would have replaced the hard lines to the couplers, too. I soaked the fittings in Deep Creep for about a week, renewing daily, waiting on the O-rings to arrive...but was glad I did. My 322 must have been put away wet a few times unfortunately.
 

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Discussion Starter #131
I have been busy with numerous projects and this one has been sitting for too long. Priority right now is to get rural property work and getting the 420 running. The 420 is getting close. Rear is about finished; Need to finsh the rear brakes/cleanup, replace fuel lines and transaxle fill tube, change hydro oil, and fire it up. Standstill on the 318 at this time is figuring out plumbing for H3.
 

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If you dont mind having the outlet ports in the front of the reversed, its easy.
Of course this depends on the h3 valve.
On mine, the steel tubes lined up, but because of the h3 valve configuration, it switched the front ports. But I didnt have to rebend any of the tubes.
Heres a pic of mine installed....
259879


Top spool = outer lever = up/ down/ float = left front port.
Middle spool= middle lever= per angle= right front port.
Bottom spool= inner lever= rockshaft.

The only modification I had to do was lengthen the linkage for the bottom spool. Ryan214 did the same thing on his.
Hope that gives you a better understanding.
 
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Discussion Starter #133
Thanks Skwirl. unsure I would like the couplers reversed but float on rock shaft would not be and issue because that would be the 3ph. Will look into it when I get back on that project.
 

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Discussion Starter #134
Skwirl, just reread your post ... I am using H3 valve and levers from a 430. Don't remember what you used. Did you have to lengthen the lever linkage on std H3 setup?
 

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I had to lengthen the linkage for bottom spool. The others fit.
 

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Discussion Starter #136
The only modification I had to do was lengthen the linkage for the bottom spool. Ryan214 did the same thing on his.
Hope that gives you a better understanding.
My question was did you use Deere H3 levers and linkage? And modification still required?

How did you mount your valve?
 

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Discussion Starter #137
For now I plan to mount the control valve in the top mounting hole for the H2 valve using a metal strip with nuts tack welded to them. Distance between mounting holes greater on H3 but I would keeping similar orientation as H2. The levers can be reindexed if longer linkage is required but I want levers aligned in neutral position. Picky B#@$% ain't I.
 

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All JD parts.
To lengthen the linkage I used an extra set of linkage and welded at the correct length.
I mounted valve using same upper hole as h2.
Bottom hole I used 2 large fender washers to catch and pinch the frame. It's not pretty but usable.
The h3 levers all aligned, I didnt have to "clock" the arms.
 
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Discussion Starter #139
Bump just to get this back up near top.
 

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Discussion Starter #140
120 and 332 with loader cleaned up and put away for the winter. This tractor is being up on my priority list. Need to get the H3 hydraulics installed and the engine back in it.
 
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