[Randy-IA]

Fun with tractors kinda slows down when it gets cold I guess. Mines sitting in the dry dirt floor shed taking up room my big Oliver should using so it's seat is dry when I need it. Not much fun sitting on frozen water that slowly soaks through the seat of your pants as it melts.

 

[gabby_in_wis]

When this one gets finished it is going to my rural property where I have more storage space. Then I move on to another started project. A 420 that is getting refreshed.

 

[gabby_in_wis]

Cleaned up around the 318 today. I knew I had installed steering cylinder hoses wrong so I corrected those today.

Finally my time has freed up to go work at rural property tomorrow. Not sure when I will get back to work on the 318. Will try to squeeze a couple hours in at night.

 

[gabby_in_wis]

In the last photos you can see a pile of parts under the 318. I have a pair of driveshafts, degreased both and checked for play in the knuckles both knuckles on both shafts move freely with no looseness detected I will paint, grease, and reinstall original drive shaft.

Cleaned the original steering cylinder and hoses. I need to check cylinder for leakage. Will check into repair if leak is present.

Steering cylinder and hoses, H2 control levers, control valve, couplers/with caps, and a driveshaft were put into a For Sale box. Parts will not be sold until tractor is running to confirm I do not need them.

 

[gabby_in_wis]

After supper went to garage to do some tractor work. With car in garage doesn't leave me much room to work. Still doing some garage cleanup so took the 318 control off work table, broke it down, lubed it and put it back together. Primary reason for doing this was to clean up the detent spool which is always full of crud in 317 valves I have torm apart. Was surprised how clean the spool was on this tractor. Put the valve back together and put it in the box with rest of parts I may sell. Don't want to sell any parts until tractor is running. I may need a part from this box rather than sell it and have to buy another one.

First photo of the disassembled valve, there are two detent balls. Only one shown in photo.. The other is still in the bore in the spool.

Due to pandemic we have nothing planned for Christmas day. I will probably spend that day in the garage getting started with H2/H3 conversion on the 318.

 

[gabby_in_wis]

Didn't get a lot done in the garage today. But did do some prep work and planning. Move jack under front of tractor and raised it so would be easy to work on installing H3 valve and making connections to the valve.

Got it up to where I can see I still have a lot of cleaning to do inside the frame.

Second photo shows the valve mounting plate. 318 valve is mounted parallel to frame side plates whereas the H3 valve in the 420 mounts perpendicular to frame plates. I do not know which I need to do first, mount the valve and attach the plumbing or mount the valve and connect the levers. Guess I just need to get started and let things work themselves out.

I have printed the plumbing charts from tech manual TM1590 for early 318 to 420 (both with 4 port steering valve). I do not plan on putting a mower deck on this tractor but may install a 54C blade so still want the plumbing to be somewhat original. Not sure yet where I will plumb the rear work ports into. I did install rockshaft lockout valve so logical place to plumb couplers in rockshaft cylinder circuit.

Need to figure out how to split my time between the 318 and rural property. Priority says I need to get camper into storage.

 

[gabby_in_wis]

Forgot to include these photos comparing the valves


First photo left to right

• 317 H2 control valve
  • Note: the power beyond port (BYD) on left side of valve is where Brantly power steering cylinder hose connects. Hydraulic flow out that port to steering cylinder and from cylinder to sump.
• 318 H2 control valve ... note: detented spools are reversed location and BYD port not machined in this valve.
• 420/430 H3 valve.

Center photo is the 317 & 318 H2 valves

Last photo is the 318 and 420/430 H3 valves.

• Again, the detented spools are reversed rotation
• I need to figure out which circuits I want detents on ... frt right for sure but which on mid or rear.

 

[gabby_in_wis]

Today I fabricated a mounting plate to convert from H2 valve mount to H3. Need to clean up frame and paint the mounting plate. The plate will match holes in the frame for the H2 valve and has a 3rd hole to mount the H3 valve. The top mounting hole will be common between the two valves and I hope the lever/valve linkage is reusable.

 

[gabby_in_wis]

Not going to make it to the property again today. Heading to garage to do some planning/work on H2/H3 conversion.

Last night went back out to put the car away. Was curious if plate I fabricated would fit the 318 mounting plate or if hardware to mount the H3 valve would interfere with the 318 mounting plate. I have just enough clearance. I do not to weld a stud to the plate at the lower 318 mounting hole so I have two bolts to anchor plate to frame.

Painting components will probably wait until I have it all assembled to make sure it works.

 

[gabby_in_wis]

Yesterday I welded a mounting stud to the valve mounting plate and painted it black. Easier to paint it now than to remove, paint, and reinstall on a completed tractor.

Spent some time cleaning up the frame and installing oil lines to the front coupler. To install the right side lines looks like I will need to drop the front off the lift so I can tilt the front axle. U-shaped bends on end of lines attaching to couplers will not clear frame and axle without tilting the axle.

 

[gabby_in_wis]

Didn't get anything done in the garage today. Cleared snow then scheduled truck for oil change and new tires. New storm starting noon tomorrow so did some shopping to stock up on eggs, milk, bread, and butter. Can now try to get some work done in the garage.

Think I will try to get front oil lines and control valve installed in the 318 yet today.

 

[gabby_in_wis]

Here is the valve mounting plate made from 1/8" x 3" flat stock.

• The unused hole is the location to mount the H2 valve.
• I cut the head off a 7/16" cap screw and welded it into that hole and used that to mount the plate to the frame.
• Top hole to mount the H3 valve is same hole as H2 valve.
• Bottom H3 valve mounting hole cap screw is with nut toward center of frame. Nut is to close to frame plate to get a wrench on it.
• Valve orientation is good and spool point up thru same area as the H2 valve.

On to attaching levers to spools. Haven't found the secret yet.

 

[gabby_in_wis]

Heading to rural property. Probably won't get anything done on this tractor today.

 

[gabby_in_wis]

More work on 318 today.

• Was able to use the H3 linkage with the offsest to control the right front circuit (detented spool -- inner lever). Comparing the lever position with the 420 inner lever position it may be a bit more rearward but am using it for a starting point.
• There is a position where all three control levers are aligned and the bends in the levers have a natural fit.
• The remainder of the linkage pieces do not fit the levers together to my satisfaction so I will be fabricating new linkage. Both sets of links can be straight but extended slightly.
• Thickness of the new material will be critical. The head of the pin for the inner lever needs to be installed from the outside. The head of this pin can hang up on the inside link of the outer lever. Link pieces measure 3 mm thick.
• Linkage pieces measure about 7/16" wide.
• Only material I see available off the rack at hardware stores is 1/8" T by 1/2" W. Think I can make the 1/2" work but unsure about 1/8" thickness.
• Tomorrow I will determine new linkage length so I can buy material Monday. Need to see if Steel Mart has 3 mm material and have them shear strips 11 - 12 mm wide.
• Tomorrow I will also be starting to make control valve/oil line connections.

 

[gabby_in_wis]

Cut out some cardboard links to determine length I need between pins for the center and out levers. I think I can make 7" between pin centers for the center lever and 6 3/4" for the outer lever.

 

[sublime68charger]

good luck with getting the linkage made and working

 

[gabby_in_wis]

Very disappointed with Farm & Fleet. Went to their store to pick up three items. They did not have any of the three. I should have known better. This was a store my father used often when I was growing up to provide parts/materials needed on our farm. I have said it before and still my belief. This business can support neither, a farm or a fleet.

Heading out again today I need steel to fabricate links for the 318 and need auxiliary cutting edge material for the 332.

 

[jake_vc]

Sounds like Tractor Supply here Gabby,four short aisles of tractor stuff, rest of the store, clothes, pets, etc.

 

[sublime68charger]

I always thought farm and fleet was good for when you knew what you wanted and knew what Isle it is they have moved it over to other side of the store.

Gabby need to look things up ahead of time to know if they think that they have it in stock!

doesn't mean its in the store per say but gives you a fighting chance!

The Farm and Fleet in Verona is a great store though if your ever that way stop at that one!

its my favorite farm and fleet to be at.

Platteville is 2nd and most time I settle for Dodgeville's because it is the closet to me.

 

[gabby_in_wis]

Picked up 1/8" thick x 1/2" wide strip at Steel mart to make lever/control valve linkage. Today I made the linkage for center lever and started linkage for the outer lever. I have installed the center links and am afraid the 1/8" thick material is going to cause problems. Need to finish outer lever links and install them to see if they are going to work.