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Discussion Starter · #161 ·
Just finished drilling and cutting links for outside lever. I did not follow the old carpenters rule. Measure twice, cut once. Pin to pin measurement should have been 6 7/8" not 6 3/4". Tomorrow morning need to drill/cut another pair of links. Also had to tighten set screw on center lever bellcrank. It was loose and allowed misalignment. Need to add thread lock and tighten set screw on all three before calling it good,
 
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Very disappointed with Farm & Fleet. Went to their store to pick up three items. They did not have any of the three. I should have known better. This was a store my father used often when I was growing up to provide parts/materials needed on our farm. I have said it before and still my belief. This business can support neither, a farm or a fleet.

Heading out again today I need steel to fabricate links for the 318 and need auxiliary cutting edge material for the 332.
Sounds like what my dad used to say about NAPA auto parts by us..."Never Any Parts Available" when they had to order a run of the mill part or gave him the wrong one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #163 ·
Trip to Minneapolis delayed due to weather conditions. Will be working on the 318 more today.
 

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Discussion Starter · #164 ·
Lever/spool linkage is fabricated.
  • Need to paint before final installation
  • Need to remove levers and lock tite the set screws to keep them from loosening
  • Need flange nut for one of lever mounting capscrews
Started connecting oil lines to the control valve. Plan is to plumb the valve using early 420 H3 patterns.
  • pump to valve inlet connected but may need to add 45° adapter at inlet to relieve hose bend.
  • valve outlet to steering valve completed
  • Rockshaft cylinder rod end hose will get connected to port C
  • Cylinder barrel end hose will get connected to port D.
  • These are all hose connections so attaching them should be fairly simple.
  • Steel lines to front of tractor are a different story
    • right side lines which on H2 valve were at rear of valve. Now will be on front
    • left side lines on H2 front spool will now be on rear spool. There will be T's at these outlets to connect rear coupler hoses to these ports.
 
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Discussion Starter · #165 ·
Need to get some done on this tractor tonight. Need to take Mom grocery shopping first.

I need to put together a list of fittings needed to attach oil lines/hose to control valve to finish up the H3 conversion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #166 ·
After supper
  • I disconnected and removed all the control valve linkage
  • so I could remove the lever assembly.
  • Steel wooled and painted all the linkage.
  • Lock tited (blue 242) set screws in the bell cranks on lever assembly so they will not loosen
  • Reinstalled lever assembly
  • Installed the right side two steel lines that had been removed.
  • Reinstalled the control valve/lever linkage.
Only thing remaining to finish H3 conversion is connect the lines and hoses to the control valve. I should be able to tweak bends in the steel lines to make them fit. Hoses will probably need adapters set to correct angle to mate with the formed drops on the hoses. Left side adapters at valve will need to be tees to connect front and rear couplers.

Contractor coming tomorrow to measure kitchen and porch windows for replacement windows. Should have time before he gets here to do some more of this work.
 

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Gabby, your attention to detail is inspiring. Really what I'm trying to say is that it's all your fault that I'm doing as much cleaning up and paint prep on my round fender haha. I'm just teasing but thank you for your attention to detail and posting your progress
 

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Discussion Starter · #168 ·
Much of the attention to detail is done so I do not have problem with the tractor when it is back together and being used. Example is lock titing the set screws on the hydraulic levers. Have operated quite a few Deere tractors where the levers are loose or do not actuate spools correct. When it is tore apart is the time to do the job right. Next is the control valve connections. I hate leakers. That is why I replaced o-ring and will probably use thread sealer (not vinyl tape) to finish that job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #169 ·
Control valve connections did not go well today.
  • The detented spools are on opposites on the H2/H3 controls valves so the front coupler oil lines that attached to the lower ports of the H2 valve now attach to the top ports on the H3.
    • Right front line which was connected to Port A on H2 valve now connects to Ports E on H3 valve. A slight bow was added to this line and connection was completed.
    • Right front line connected to Port B now connects to Port F. I will need to increase the a bend in the line to get the adapters to align to make connections. Should be able to do this.
  • The oil lines for left side couplers are going to be a problem. Bends forming the drops are longer on these lines which now connect to ports A & B. These longer drops are going to cause interference issues between the oil lines and the belly screen. I want screen installed so need to figure out way of modifying the oil lines.
 

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Discussion Starter · #170 ·
I need some help

Need specs for tubing for the front coupler oil lines. Fitting size is SAE 6 JIC 37° flare.
 

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If fitting is SAE 6, you'll need 3/8 tubing. SAE size is the size/OD of the tubing and also NPT thread size expressed in 1/16 inches...6 x 1/16" = 6/16 = 3/8". Tubing ((brake/fuel) should be available at most auto parts stores...NAPA, Advance, auto Zone, etc. Bob
 

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Gabby,

I recall (risky, I know...) that a lot of Deere hydraulic fittings are size 5 and not 6, so measure carefully.

Chuck
 

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Discussion Starter · #173 ·
Bob and Chuck, thanks for the information. What stumped me was the tubing measured 3/8" OD. Typically tube/hose sizes are measured by ID and wall thickness. Measurements agree with what you say. Chuck, very well familiar with the -5 (dash 5) adapters used on cylinders Wish there was a way to drill and retap to dash 6.

Gabby
 

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Discussion Starter · #174 · (Edited)
I surfed Advance Auto Parts website for brake line components. I may not need to buy tubing. They sell 3/8" compression fittings. Most of the adjustments I need to make are shortening lines. Should be able to cut a piece out of the tube and reconnect with compression fitting. Looks like auto parts store run tomorrow.

Advantage of compression fitting is you do not need flaring tool. I have flaring tool but was bought and used many moons ago on copper tubing (residential plumbing). Unsure if it is acceptable to use on brake line tubing.
 

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Gabby, Plumbing is VERY confusing !!! Pipe & hose are measured by the ID, tubing is measured on the OD.... except some! I believe there's a refrigeration tubing that's measured on the ID like pipe! You're gonna find that your flaring tool is 45º and not the 37º flare you need. The brake tubing is flexible though and may conform to the 37º angle of the fittings compared to the 45º flare you're putting on the tubing. Compression fittings are an excellent choice. When you flare tubing, the tubing needs to be a little longer than what you measure as the tubing gets shorter when you flare it. No "allowance" needed for compression fittings...cut to length, deburr, install, tighten, and done!

Be careful which fittings you get though! Some have a sleeve with a taper on each side like you'd use on copper tubing. I don't think these will hold for hyd pressure. You want "bite type" fittings. These also have a sleeve but they "bite" into the tubing and will hold hyd pressure. USE CAUTION WHEN TIGHTENING THEM! If you overtighten, they can bite THROUGH the tubing! Find the brand name and do some research as the manufacturer usually has installation instructions. If all else fails, do as you're doing and ask here (I actually taught tube bending & fitting at work)! It's not difficult, but best to know what you're doing and why. Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #176 ·
Bob, I know I can buy compression fittings at the lumber that is used for plumbing. Example of use would be to repair stool or refrigerator ice maker copper tubing. I would be concerned using these. Fittings used to repair brake lines I would expect to have higher quality due to safety requirements. As suggested I will do my homework before I buy. Thanks ... Gabby

EDIT: Was looking at new flaring tool over the set I bought years ago for $1.99 at Coast to Coast hardware store. Problem with making that purchase would be how many times would I use it. I assume you can buy tool that makes 37° flares.
 

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Gabby, I believe brake fittings are 45º flares and usually a double flare. The double flare prevents cracking at the flare. If you get brake/fuel lines at auto parts store, they are soft enough not to crack.

Yes, 37º flaring tools can be purchased but for more than $2.00 !! If you have an NAPA, go there for fittings as they typically carry Eaton/Weatherhead. These are hyd bite type and will work well. I used them on my 317 without an issue.
 
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Discussion Starter · #178 ·
Napa in Platteville had the compression fittings. Picked up 6 (Weatherhead) fittings, 12" brake line in case I need some line to assemble everything, tube bender and tubing cutter. Aslo picked up tube of wheel bearing grease to grease the transmission driveshaft. Time to get to work.
 

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Bob, I know I can buy compression fittings at the lumber that is used for plumbing. Example of use would be to repair stool or refrigerator ice maker copper tubing. I would be concerned using these. Fittings used to repair brake lines I would expect to have higher quality due to safety requirements. As suggested I will do my homework before I buy. Thanks ... Gabby

EDIT: Was looking at new flaring tool over the set I bought years ago for $1.99 at Coast to Coast hardware store. Problem with making that purchase would be how many times would I use it. I assume you can buy tool that makes 37° flares.
You can indeed get a 37* flaring tool, I got a Ridgid tool locally. I would assume it will out last me. A way better tool the the typical inexpensive automotive type flaring tool.

 

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Discussion Starter · #180 ·
Didn't get much done on the tractor today. Ran errands and then needed to take Laurie into grocery store and drug store.

I have the parts to do serious work on completing the H3 conversion. Before I went shopping this morning I cleaned up the driveshaft and have most of it painted. Still have the universal joint on the engine end to paint.
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Busy day scheduled at rural property tomorrow. Unsure if that will happen as snow is falling heavily here right now. We'll see what the morning brings.
 
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