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JUST PICKED UP A 430 TODAY HAVING A CHARGING ISSUE THE OLD LINK BELT IS LOOSE , GUY BLOW A HYDRO LINE REPLACED LINE BUT NEVER REFILED THE HYDRO FLUID LOL FRONT GRILL I HAVE THE FRAME JUST NEED A REPLACEMENT SCREEN NOT SURE WERE TO GET ONE .. GOT TRACTOR , 60 INCH DECK 54 4 WAY PLOW, DETHATER,AND AIR RAIDER, OLD CART .SPREADER AND COLECTION SET UP.FOR REAR ..ROLLER, AND A CRAZY WEIGHT BOX WITH WEIGHTS IN PICS..I FIXED THE REAR SIGHT TUBING / REPLACED AND FILLED WITH HYDRO FLUID . RUNS AND DRIVE GREAT NO CREEP . 1100 HOURS IS LOW FOR A 1984 FIRST YEAR THEY MADE THEM GUY USED IT TO PLOW SNOW THATS ABOUT IT HE DIED SO HIS WIDOW SOLD IT TO ME .ANY INFO ON FROM GRILL SHREENING WOULD BE HELPFUL ..NEW STYLE DECK WITH GREASE FITTING NICE AND SOLARD ..GUY PUT A NEW HYDRO HOSE FROM RUBBER AND BELLY PAN IS UPSIDE DOWN I JUST ORDERED A STEEL HYDRO LINE FOR IT ...ORIGINAL LINK BELT IS COOL AS HELL ....

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Steve,

Yes, the link belt is considered an "emergency' repair that allows getting a belt back on without removing many parts, but it is a poor long term fix since it does not match the pulley profiles very well (and as you have already found out is not very reliable over time...). The stock Deere belt is recommended as LukeL posted above.

Chuck
 

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Yanmar Clacking
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I’ve had pretty good luck with the link belt so far. Been on for over a year, and has been charging good. You can find them on Amazon. Like $30 bucks. Personally I would buy the link belt for it and hook it up. I’ll keep tabs on the one I have on and see how long it works.
 

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It’s not that hard to change the OEM belt. Loosen the alternator mount/tensioner, pull three bolts from the driveshaft coupler, switch the belts, reverse the process. Probably a 15 minute job at most.
Huh, I’ve mostly heard it’s a pretty tricky job. Getting the driveshaft coupler bolts out and all that. Perhaps I’ll see about putting the OEM belt that I have on
 
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