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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I started working on the tractor today so figured I needed to start a post to keep track of work completed on tractor and loader. Plan is to remove the loader from the 318 and install on my 332. My 332 currently has a CTC loader which will be removed and installed on this 318. The 318 and loader are currently advertised for sale.

1987 JD 318 tractor
  • s/n M00318X424191
  • By s/n tractor is a 1987 with P218 engine (1987 s/n break for P218 engine is 420000)
  • Hour meter on tractor has not worked for long time period. Meter reads 206 hours.
  • Ag lug tires on rear with non-Deere wheel weights
  • Front tires are heavily cracked and need replacement.
  • Seller told me starter needs replacement and front oil seal leaks and needs replacement.
  • Hood is from an open frame 316.
  • Headlight wiring is unplugged and plug on headlight harness has been chopped.
  • Left rear tail light is missing ... right rear needs attention.
  • Oil leak has left tractor a huge oily mess.
  • This post will be updated with as purchased information as I work on the tractor.
  • Update ... Rear tires have tubes but are not fluid filled. Correction: Right rear has a tube, Left rear is tubeless.
  • Update ... Battery in tractor appears to be usable.
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Model 44 loader
  • Loader needs some TLC also.
  • No parking stands.
  • Rear brace (PT9238) and hardware is missing.
    • Brace can be easily fabricated.
    • Hardware is 1/2" x 2 1/2"
  • Mount brace missing 2 pieces of hardware
    • Hardware is 1/2" x 1 3/4"
  • Bucket level tube kit is missing.
  • Rear U-bolts (PT9242) missing
  • Cutting edge on bucket has been replaced.
    • Needs some attention.
  • Right side boom cylinder has leaked oil on trailer bed.
    • Appears rod seal is leaking.
  • This post will also be updated as work is completed on the loader.
  • Pump Reference Information:
    • the 300 series hydraulic pump is Parker Hannifin model D17AA2A for the 300 version ... pump has a flow rate of 5.25 gallons per minute at 3350 RPMs with a pressure rating of 1000 PSI ... The D17AA2A has a displacement .404 cubic inch per revolution.
    • For the 400 series, pump is D22AA1A ... 4.5 gallons per minute at 2000 RPMs with a pressure rating of 1200PSI for the 400 series
    • NAPA belt part number 4L360W (36" x 1/2") is replacement for PT12320 Deere belt for 332 which is NLA from Deere.
 
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Following along to see how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Started working in tractor today.

Needed to move rear of tractor to right on trailer.
  • Removed wheel weights to make rear lighter and easier to move.
  • Used a floor jack to lift rear of tractor to move it to right.
  • With that finished I spun the rear wheels.
  • Right rear wheel sounded like loose change in a coffee can.
  • Removed brake drum and found broken spring that pulls the two shoes together.
  • Adjuster was also laying in bottom of drum and damaged.
  • Dealer had brake spring in stock so replaced the spring. $10.64 for spring.
  • Cleaned up and repaired adjuster. Should be usable.
  • Axle seal was dry so did nothing with it.
  • Brakes reassembled and tire reinstalled.
  • Still need to adjust the brake.
    • With new spring the right brake feels better than the left so I will need to tear down, inspect, and adjust left side to get balance between right/eft brakes.
  • I did not reinstall the wheel weights. They need some machining work and paint.
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Also charged battery pack and attached to tractor. Had good strong dash lights. Lights dimmed when I tried to start but engine did not turn over. No noise, no nothing other than dimmed lights. That will probably be next project; to see why starter is not engaging. I have a new starter that I will see if I can attach wiring to see if loose starter engages. No sure if I can do this without pulling engine.

While I was at dealer today I did order front oil seal (HE509-0040 ...$31.32 + $17 shipping). Dealer found one at a network store so hope I do not have to pay shipping cost.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Following along to see how it goes.
Tractor is not going to get full restoration. Just fix what is broken. Trying to keep repair cost to a minimum. If I can get the tractor running I will mount CTC loader on tractor and will be sold as a unit.

Model 44 update will be more thorough.
 

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Oh yeah, my head is screwed on backwards atm. I was thinking this was going to be the 332 w/44 loader build.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
This is the start of that build. Starting at rear of the 318 working my way forward. The model 44 will be removed and get refreshed before installing it on the 332.

I also have an 1983 318 I am restoring but that tractor will have H3 hydraulics which in my opinion would be a waste on a loader tractor. Don't know what will happen with that 318 when done.
 
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I am going to be following this thread, Gabby does amazing work. I have followed some of your threads before on the 49 snowblower, and they were very detailed.

I also have a 44 loader, I got it about a year ago, and its been a backsaver! I was thinking about restoring my 44 Loader that I have on my 318. I know you mentioned that you were going to paint the 44 loader, and I am wondering how your going to do that. What I mean by that is, are you going to remove all the hydraulic lines on the loader arms, and repaint, or just tape around them? I know some of the metal lines on the loader arm go through a piece of metal that is bent around them. How would you remove those to paint? Are you going to get new stickers and labels for it as well? Last I checked you can't buy them, so it would have to be custom made.

I know on my loader where the paint is chipped off, the paint seems VERY thick, and I was wondering if it was powder coat and not just paint?

I should also post pictures of the loader stands that I made. They look and fit almost exactly like the orginal ones.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
First I want to thank you for the compliments. I like the restored appearance but can add a lot of cost to final product just to look nice.

To start I will be painting the subframes and the pump mounting parts. Subframe needs missing parts fabricated/bought to make the loader correct. I know it is not durable but I spray paint components and will do so with this loader. I just got burned by a company in Dubuque, Iowa on powder coated parts. I do have another source for powder coating. I will need to talk to them.

I do not paint over decals. My preference is remove, paint, and install new decals. I am not sure if decals are available. PC says "contact dealer". Will probably remove steel lines. as you can see in photo they need bent and need some straightening work.

After the subframes and pump parts are painted they will get mounted on the 332. The loader can be installed but is removable to complete the project.

I would be very interested to see your stands. Do they mount on the loader when not in used like the original Deere stands?
 

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I will have to take some pictures of my loader stands and post them here, maybe start a different thread. They are almost exactly the same design as the factory ones, but I honestly never tried to see if they attach to the loader arms the same way.

I used them last year and they worked well. The 44 loader is NOT a quick connect setup, thats for sure. :) Thats why I have two 318s, one for the loader, and one for snowblower/mowing (currently being restored)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Today I want to get the left rear brake tore down, inspected, and adjusted. I don't think there is anything wrong with it other than adjustment is needed.

The plan is then to remove the loader..Then the subframes and pump mounting parts. I haven't got down and looked at pump mounting but hope it is all original. I am aware the brackets bolted to the inside of the tractor interfere with the tractor oil lines and will be a challenge to swap over to the 332. Comtemplating moving the 318 and loader to rural property because I have no interior space in town to work on this.

After the loader is off priority will be to get the tractor running.

Frost predicted for tonight so need yard time this afternoon also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I will have to take some pictures of my loader stands and post them here, maybe start a different thread. They are almost exactly the same design as the factory ones, but I honestly never tried to see if they attach to the loader arms the same way.

I used them last year and they worked well. The 44 loader is NOT a quick connect setup, thats for sure. :) Thats why I have two 318s, one for the loader, and one for snowblower/mowing (currently being restored)
Disconnecting the pump is the task that does not agree with "quick hitch". I am knowledgeable with how this is done but you need to be laying on the floor underneath the front of the tractor. Like you this will become a "dedicated loader tractor".

The CTC loader appears to be "quick hitch" but when you have as many tractors as I do you just don't remove it because there is another tractor sitting over there whining "pick me, pck me".
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Lug bolts on left tire were tight but not torqued No damage to rim. Axle nut was only finger tight. Had wheel and axle nut off in about 10 minutes. Brake drum is a different story. I removed the rubber plug and backed off the adjuster to make sure ridge around brake drum is not binding with the friction material. Drum turns so there is no binding between drum and shoes. Problem has to be the key on the axle shaft. Using a puller, pneumatic impact, and weasel p$%^ (that is what Dad called penetrating oil). Need to get this finished today.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Other projects have kept me busy. Need to get left brake back together then loader off the tractor.

Following another post ... Need Advice: 1992 JD 318 P218G NO CRANK/ NO START ... which will help me when I get into diagnosing no-start issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
I got the brake drum off the left side wheel. End is broken off spring. Dealer had two and I knew I should have taken both. That will be another $10.64 to add to repair bill.

Don't know why the drum pulled so hard. Cleaned the shaft keyway with file and key brush then used file to remove rough edges on the key and wire brush to clean the key. Drum slid on and off with no problems. Axle seal has small amount of oily residue on lower part of seal cannister. wiped it off and I think the seal will be ok. There is no evidence of leakage in the drum or down the inside of the tire rim. Will loosely reassemble every thing to keep track of parts and Monday put it back together.
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Think I will pull the engine side shields. Anxious to see if I have 12V to the starter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Going out for supper but did take time to open hood and remove engine shields. Engine is an oily mess. New fuel filter but coil is loose on top of the engine. Headlight wire is disconnected. Wire to starter solenoid feels loose. Don't know if I can access wire from under tractor but think I need to have the loader off to get to it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Heading back out to the garage here shortly. One thing I forgot to document yesterday ... Tractor has oversize (automotive) battery installed as well as over length flange head cap screws to attach engine side shields. One/both need to be replaced or the screw will puncture the battery.
 
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