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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
I left long before it sold and didn't see anyone there I knew so don't know how to find out what it sold for. It was tractor and 60" deck.

Sorry Matt ... Gabby
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
I have the front brace and one of the pump mount bracket filed to remove burrs, sanded and painting underway. Painting will be finished tonight.

Here is the right side pump bracket that someone who thinks he is a mechanic butchered. There is a dimple on the underside as mentioned before that the tension screw should engage to keep is from slipping off the bracket. I will not be mimicking the original tensioning screw. I will file the threaded end to engage the dimple but will not use a spring pin on opposite end. Hex head is easier to engage to tighten/loosen belt tension.
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I am also going to weld in a bridge where the bracket was butchered. Also plan to weld a nut to the inside surface so bolt engages from outside. Top bolt on right side has clearance issue with front right side oil lines to couplers. I hope the weld nut and bolt length do not cause a contact problem with the oil lines. Next photo is the bracket with all new mounting (grade 5) hardware for mounting sub-frames and pump brackets to the tractor.
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Also cleaning up the sub-frames and hope to have a coat of paint on them by nightfall.
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bolt length will be a problem, if you use factory length, looks like they were trying to do a farmer fix, to make install or removal easier, in there minds.

But yes I looked at mounting the other way, to.
Even the right way I took a bar after it was all put back together and gave it a nudge off the end of the bolt.


If you are using the 3 point lower brackets, those back 5/8 bolts can be uped from 1-3/4 to 2" use flat 1/2 washer and 5/8 lock washer, not sure why there is so much slop in the 5/8 washer.
that washer is on the 420 parts list,

I have found some discrepancy's in the PTO parts list to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
The hardware that was used to mount the sub-frames and pump brackets on the front of the tractor were 1/2". Per PC they are supposed to be 5/8". I will be using 5/8" when I mount on the 332. Before I weld nut to inside of bracket I will need to remove coupler and trial fit loose nut in that hole. Other 3 holes for mounting the brackets will be ok. I had the same problem when I mounted my 1st model 44 on my other 332.

I did buy 5/8" washers for the 5/8" hardware. The cheap dime store 1/2" washers and lockers that were used were severely deformed The washers and lock washers I bought should not have this issue but extra thickness and and larger diameter may cause some assembly issues. Things aren't always gravy but I want to make sure the loader is securely mounted. As for the 5/8" washers on the rear bosses I agree they may interfere with the u-bolts. I may need to use 1/2" washers drilled to 5/8" hardware spec.

Grandkids were here for supper and Trick or Treat. Didn't make it back to the garage. I still plan on going out to finish painting the one pump bracket and front brace so it can cure well before assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Hello Ken. I looked at your link. Problem I have is they show no examples of their work. It looks like I will have to send them what I need and see what they can do ... Gabby
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Multi-tasking today. The model 44 sub-frames are large, heavy, and cumbersome to paint. I do not have a hanging system that will handle those parts so I am painting parts of the frames, letting them dry overnight, rolling them over and painting the other side. Paint job is satisfactory but taking to long. This morning I took the left side pump bracket to the lower shed and mounted it in the 332. I can mount the left side sub-frame as soon as it is painted and dry. I want sufficient drying time in garage because I have no heat in the lower shed.

I also painted the grille for the 318. Grille metal was in very good condition, very little dented/bent components. Power coating both inside and outside was extremely bad. Spray can paint job is average. Looks good from 100 yards and is definitely much better than the rest of the tractor.
 
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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
When I was cleaning the left side sub-frame this stanchion had a large amount of oil crud in the stand. The only place this oil could come from is the reservoir to pump suction line outlet. I have no idea what kind of oil (if any) is in the reservoir. I plan on flushing the reservoir, installing a suction filter assembly, and filling with fresh oil.

As long as it is disconnected I plan on replacing both pump suction and pressure hoses.
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Discussion Starter · #50 · (Edited)
The suction line out to the reservoir is leaking. As I said I will replace both suction nose from reservoir and pressure hose to control valve.
Second photo shows the model 44 decal that is NLA. Deere does manufacture a model 44 snow blower for smaller new model tractors (M151665). The snow blower decal has "44" and "Snowblower" on the decal. Wondering if I can cut the "44" off the decal and use on loader. Need to find a 44 snow blower and measure decal.
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I have started mounting the loader on the 332.
  • Right side is painted and loosely mounted. I will not torque hardware until both sides are installed with front and rear braces. Left side has painting to be finished.
  • You can see pump mounting bracket (RS) on concrete in front of tractor. Bracket still needs some repair welding, paint. and installation.
  • Second photo shows only lower bolt is being used to attach sub-frame temporarily.
  • Forgot to thank Grinditout for u-bolts. They are not original but did install well on the right side.
  • Brake pedal/sub-frame clearance appears to be acceptable.Will need to mount the loader to confirm adequate clearance between brake pedal and loader upright.
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I just checked Amazon for laser-printable vinyl adhesive material. the first one I came upon has in the description:
  • Self-Adhesive and Water-Resistant Stickers - Water-based adhesive allows use vinyl stickers both indoors and outdoors. Labels can be removed without any sticky residue. For more protection, seal stickers with a clear acrylic spray or apply UV protection
if you have access to a color laser printer and have the patience to create the artwork (maybe using a photo of the "44" logo you have, it might be worth a try.

this one happens to be matte finish but I assume there is a glossy version available.



Ken
 

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Second photo shows the model 44 decal that is NLA. Deere does manufacture a model 44 snow blower for smaller new model tractors (M151665). The snow blower decal has "44" and "Snowblower" on the decal. Wondering if I can cut the "44" off the decal and use on loader. Need to find a 44 snow blower and measure decal.
I found a picture of the current model 44 SB. looks like the "44" logo is a different style than the one in your picture. it looks to be white (or very light yellow) outlined in a stylized black outline.
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Here is the right side pump bracket that someone who thinks he is a mechanic butchered. There is a dimple on the underside as mentioned before that the tension screw should engage to keep is from slipping off the bracket. I will not be mimicking the original tensioning screw. I will file the threaded end to engage the dimple but will not use a spring pin on opposite end. Hex head is easier to engage to tighten/loosen belt tension.
View attachment 272114 View attachment 272115
Gabby,
I just realized what you were saying about the bolt in the bracket that adjusts the tension. My 44 loader has a bolt with a hex head and I use a 3/4 socket to adjust belt tension. So I am in agreement to use a hex head bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
I haven't done anything with it yet Doug. Just know it is not what I had on my first model 44. Actually I think a hex head bolt will be easier to adjust belt tension. A person could make a spanner socket. I have a broken 1/2" deep socket that would make a fine spanner socket.

Yes, I did see the tracing in the box. I want to get both sub-frames mounted to confirm tracing will work. Spread between 2nd and 3rd holes is the critical dimension. In order to use the u-bolts I had to mount the right side rear capscrew biased to the left side of the slot. Probably will need to do same on left side. Then I can confirm measurements,
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
Chuck, I hadn't thought about tractor decals. i need to do some research to see how to proceed. First I fthink I want to check into printing my own as suggested by Faithie999.
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
All my stuff went together perfectly.
Not sure, what might be the difference.
I am just playing it safe. Don't want to make a brace and then not have it fit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
Spent the weekend doing yard work. Need to get back on this project and get the left sub-frame painted.
 
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