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Discussion Starter #22
All four tires are weather checked but hold air. Left front has a slow leak. Normally I would just throw tubes in them and put them to work. I just feel I will have traction issues with these as I intended to pull 6' landscape rake and blade that is intended for 8N Ford tractor. I may break this 420 but want to see what it is capable of doing.
 

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Gabby, the 2 speed shifter works like a upside down "E", you pull back and move it left or right for the speed, center is neutral. If it doesn't move, the linkage is most likely rusted in place and needs to be cleaned up and lubricated with a dry lube.
That neutral you are talking about , would that be for "free wheeling" as in pushing the unit around?
Had my 420 for a number of years now and this is the first time I heard of a neutral. (When I had the unit
apart all over the garage had to use truck to drag it around)
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Robert, I did get the lever to move as explained to me and did find the 3 positions.I would have to assume the central position is neutral but will not comment about using it to relieve transmission pressure to move the tractor manually. The transmission should still have relief valves for this purpose. Will verify when I get the fender deck off tractor.
 

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Robert, I did get the lever to move as explained to me and did find the 3 positions.I would have to assume the central position is neutral but will not comment about using it to relieve transmission pressure to move the tractor manually. The transmission should still have relief valves for this purpose. Will verify when I get the fender deck off tractor.
Thanks for the reply, and by the way that suspension seat I bought from you has mounting holes that would not line up without drilling more holes in pan.
When we moved tractor around in garage wheels would not turn, thats when we found out the true weight of the unit (HEAVY)
 

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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
I am now looking at parts catalog for 420. It shows the trans pressure release lever. The lever is located just in front of the right rear wheel. You need to pull the lever out and rotate lever to other hole which relieves pressure. Rotate back for hydro to work as intended.

This is true as long and the pressure relief valves are not frozen in position which is highly common. Simple fix.
  • Fender deck and fuel tank need to be removed to access valves
  • add a couple drops of oil to the push buttons
  • lightly tap the button on top of the valves to free up the button. Careful .... do not push the button down so it is flat with top of valve.
  • take a pair of pliers and lightly work the button back and forth. Again light pressure with pliers grip, don't damage the button.
  • work the button up and down along with rotating to free up the function
  • After freeing up the button you can push it all the way down. It may stick in this position but if you start the tractor tranmission pressure should push the button back to raised position (valve closed).
  • After you get these freed up opening/closing the valve with the lever should keep it freed up. So many of these tractors these valves have not been used for many years and that is why they are frozen in position.
Those seat suspenions came off X7XX tractors so I suspect new mounting holes would be required. I think this suspension uses same seat switch as one I just purchased. I think I have two of those suspensions left and may attempt new suspension on this tractor. Advantage is slide released by lever instead of loosen bolts to slide seat forward/reverse. As I told you when you bought suspension I will buy it back if unsatisfied.
 

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The 420/430 LGT do not have the lever or pop it relief valves. Only the (316/318/322/330/332). So yes, the neutral position is used to allow it to roll around without damage. If not possible damage to transmission/pump. That is from the operators manual. Page 23 for the 430 manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
This is my 1st 420 so I wanted to be right with what I told Robert. I looked in 420 Lawn and Garden Tractor - PC1925 for confirmation with what I was going to say.

https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/64825/referrer/navigation/pgId/17551930 ... shows the lever components and transmission/pump page shows relief valves.

Being ex-DTAC I know Deere throws curves in their parts catalogues. 1925 only covers the 420 and there are no s/n breaks for the relief valve lever parts. Are you saying when I get fenderdeck and fuel tank removed I will not find these parts?

Gabby
 

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Discussion Starter #30
FYI ... 430 Lawn and Garden Tractor - PC1997 shows check valves but no lever to operate valves. Will post photos with deck and tank removed.

Thanks, Gabby
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Working with another member straightening brake pedals on his 317. Outer pedal was bent on my 420, Still needs a little more straightening but is much better. Still need to check condition of brake shoes and make all adjustments. The pedals now require to much depression to actuate brake.

DSCN1088.JPG DSCN1089.JPG DSCN1091.JPG DSCN1092.JPG DSCN1093.JPG DSCN1099.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #34
This was condition of brakes when I bought non-running tractor. It needs much TLC.

I am going to do a complete inspection/service just like I did on my 318. I need to remove drum and check condition of brake shoes. If the shoes are reusable I will tear everything apart to sand and paint then will reassemble and adjust.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
I need to clean up the fuel tank to get the tractor to start and operate so this afternoon I did some clean up work to get this project started..
  • Removed the fender deck and fuel tank.
    • What a mess!!!
    • No photo from before cleanup started.
  • Washed area under fuel tank with engine cleaner and garden hose.
    • Needs more cleaning with high pressure washer
  • Still need to remove vinyl belly guard so I can finish cleaning with high pressure washer.
  • Confirmed earlier post that there is no mechanism to depress transmission charge pump buttons.
    • The valves are there but no mechanism to release pressure.
    • Right side button moved freely both directions. Left side button is a little sticky.
DSCN1104.JPG DSCN1103.JPG
 

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All four tires are weather checked but hold air. Left front has a slow leak. Normally I would just throw tubes in them and put them to work. I just feel I will have traction issues with these as I intended to pull 6' landscape rake and blade that is intended for 8N Ford tractor. I may break this 420 but want to see what it is capable of doing.
A six foot blade and rake will be a bit much. I have about a four foot rear blade and about a five foot box blade, when they both load up my tractor starts to struggle. With chains on the tires it will push a five and a half foot blade of snow like a dozer though.
 

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Depends on the snow, dry light snow is very easy compare to a wet snow or slush in the amount of weight being push. So you will have to adjust how much to take and how far to push and the angle of the blade will come into play.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Here is some information for newbies like me. I have never owned/serviced open frame 4XX tractors so have no experience with diff-lock or 2 speed rear ends. This is what I uncovered under the fuel tank.

I took some photos of the 2 speed actuator and the diff-lock linkage. When you see these they are pretty simple mechanisms. It will be easier to explain function of these with photos/graphic. Attachment is from 420 Parts Catalog.
  • Diff-Lock is the bottom right of PC graphics.
    • Diff-lock pedal (key #16) engages/disengages the diff-lock.
    • It rests on two brackets welded to inside of frame. Key #15 is the clamp that holds it in place in rear location.
    • The two tangs on the rear of the rod straddle the button that actuates the diff-lock.
    • Pin (key #12) ties the pedal to the button.
    • When the pedal is depressed it rotates the rod and pushes/pulls the button to actuate the diff-lock.
    • To clean this up I need to clean off all the oil/crud buildup and polish the button so it easily engages/disengages the differential.
  • The 2-speed actuator operation
    • Latching is accomplished with an extruded boss on taller bracket on rod (key #7) engaging the slots in bracket (key #9). There are actually 3 positions bottom slot is low speed, upper slot is neutral, and edge of bracket is stop for high speed. (orientation of bracket #9 is goofy in this graphic. The bracket is bolted to the side of the differential and should be rotated 90° clockwise above the rod, not below)
    • To shift the differential you need to pull the lever rearward to extend spring (key #10) and release the extruded boss from bracket #9.
    • You then rotate the rod to shift the differential.
    • There is a shaft bolted the shorter bracket on end of rod into the differential to shift the 2-speed.
    • Cleaning up this mechanism is similar to the diff-lock. Clean crud off rod #7 so it moves freely through the holes in brackets #4 & #8. Shaft connect to shorter bracket needs to be polished to move freely in seal in differential.
Linkage.png
 
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