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What makes the 430 driveshaft an upgrade Jeeks? I didn't know they were better.

Not hard to make up a new shaft assembly if not being original is ok with whoever is doing the fix. I used a 1" to 3/4" combo knuckle on the pump end and a 1" to 1" knuckle for the front on a 400 shaft, with a 1" shaft that is keyed the whole length. ATV GoKart Universal Joint + 2x1000 series Yoke KIT 0.750 inch Bore .188 Keyway | eBay

A good upgrade is running the 430 drive shaft.


My rear axle is solid, but I know to keep an eye on it now. I wasn't aware that could be an issue. I will keep my eye out for a 430 drive shaft, if I can pick one up fairly cheap I would upgrade. Thanks for the tip!
 

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What makes the 430 driveshaft an upgrade Jeeks? I didn't know they were better.

Not hard to make up a new shaft assembly if not being original is ok with whoever is doing the fix. I used a 1" to 3/4" combo knuckle on the pump end and a 1" to 1" knuckle for the front on a 400 shaft, with a 1" shaft that is keyed the whole length. ATV GoKart Universal Joint + 2x1000 series Yoke KIT 0.750 inch Bore .188 Keyway | eBay
Not the shaft, but the pump yoke. It clamps to the pump shaft. Its an option in the parts diagrams. The 420 yoke is slip fit and can/will wear on the pump shaft causing vibration. The other yoke eliminates that.
I bought a complete 430 shaft for 75 bucks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I got the new aluminum flyball spacer, oil pump kit, crank seal and gaskets from Boomer. Now to find time to get the engine back together. I hope this along with the valve adjustment, oil filter housing gasket, and all the new gaskets fix all my engine issues and gives me a reliable engine for years to come.
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Looks like you are all set. I think you will be very happy you stripped the engine out and gave it a good cleaning, de-carboned heads, adjusted valves and replaced the spacer and oil seals. While you still have it apart, if you have not already, I suggest you check the valve seats to make sure they are not loose. I have not personally experienced a loose valve seat but I have heard sometimes the right side of the engine can run hotter due to the oil filter blocking some cooling air, especially if the seal is not in place between the oil filter and the engine tins. The excess heat is obviously not good for the valves and seats.
Another thing to strongly consider is replacing the insulation on the firewall. I notice your firewall does not have any. With the foil backed insulation in place, the engine flywheel housing will press up against it making a tight seal. Cooling air will be drawn in from the rear of the tractor through the firewall. Hot air from under the hood will not be able to recirculate through the engine.
I'm not trying to add scope creep but I think I mentioned in your other post about the intake manifold sometimes leaking between the two halves due to the sealant failing over time. It's an easy fix once you drill out the rivets and clean out the old sealant, especially since you already have the intake off the engine. If the manifold is leaking, you will be pulling in unfiltered air downstream of the carburetor and your air fuel mixture will be way off.

Since you are not replacing the electronic ignition module, pay close attention to the wires coming from it and the stator as you reassemble the engine and route the wires back to their termination points. Make sure none of the insulation is frayed on the wires and if so, now is the time to add some heat shrink tubing as insulation.
I don't have the resistance specs of the stator memorized but they are available in the service manual. Now is a good time to do a quick check of the stator. You don't want to find out the battery won't charge after you get everything reassembled into the tractor.

Keep up the good work. You will love the 420.
How many hours are on it by the way?
 

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Not the shaft, but the pump yoke. It clamps to the pump shaft. Its an option in the parts diagrams. The 420 yoke is slip fit and can/will wear on the pump shaft causing vibration. The other yoke eliminates that.
I bought a complete 430 shaft for 75 bucks.
The pump yoke should be able to slide on the pump to account for thermal expansion (length) of the shaft. It can be clamped tight on the 430 because the isolator allows for that movement. I don’t know how critical it is but it’s been stressed to me by excellent mechanics that this is important as you don’t want preload on the pump. Just throwing it out there. Ymmv, 👍🏻
 

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The pump yoke should be able to slide on the pump to account for thermal expansion (length) of the shaft. It can be clamped tight on the 430 because the isolator allows for that movement. I don’t know how critical it is but it’s been stressed to me by excellent mechanics that this is important as you don’t want preload on the pump. Just throwing it out there. Ymmv, 👍🏻
I've been working on anything from motorcycles to excavators for many years, hardly a back yard hack. Anyway, the yoke is listed right on the 420 parts diagrams.
Ive been running mine for about a year, no issues and no more vibrations.

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Absolutely Jeeks and I value your posts immensely. I’m certainly not in the same category of skill set as you are. I’m learning everyday. I have seen worn pump shafts and thought “how could this have happened “. It’s hard to interpret tone from written text. I didn’t mean to sound like a know it all. Cheers B
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·

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This thread's title is: 1990 420 Restoration
1st post: "Feel free to offer up any suggestions, comments, help, etc......"
Just trying to do that. No doubt - there's probably a lot more to do = full restoration (more expense, time).
After all, 32 yrs. old and maybe\perhaps the machine was used, abused, neglected somewhat.
Between this thread and the other one in the General Repair section - think all are trying to be helpful and do wish you the best with your project.
Get 'er up to snuff per se and it very well could be a garden tractor that you could count on for eons.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 · (Edited)
This thread's title is: 1990 420 Restoration
1st post: "Feel free to offer up any suggestions, comments, help, etc......"
Just trying to do that. No doubt - there's probably a lot more to do = full restoration (more expense, time).
After all, 32 yrs. old and maybe\perhaps the machine was used, abused, neglected somewhat.
Between this thread and the other one in the General Repair section - think all are trying to be helpful and do wish you the best with your project.
Get 'er up to snuff per se and it very well could be a garden tractor that you could count on for eons.
Oh, I appreciate all the comments and suggestions, everyone has been extremely helpful. I hope you or anyone else doesn't take it any other way. I truly appreciate you suggesting the oil filter seal and firewall insulation, I was just replying that I had already purchased those. I didn't know the importance of either of those items before joining this forum. I have already learned a lot about these tractors and I'm sure I will learn a lot more during ownership. This forum has been great! I have asked several questions and have gotten some great answers and that is awesome and why I love forums like this one.

My tractor was used for sure and a bit neglected as it sat outside for part of its life. Surprisingly it seems to be pretty good mechanically, it was just filthy because of the oil and hydraulic leaks combined with dirt, grass, etc. I'm not trying to build a show tractor, as it will be used and it will get scrapes and bruises at some point I'm sure.

MikeU asked how many hours were on my tractor, the hour meter says 883hrs but was unhooked when I bought it. So who knows.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
I got some more parts in from GrrenPartsStore.com anyway I ordered a new knob for the hydrostat lever and a new throttle lever end. Was the originals a light orange or more red like the hydro knob? The picture online it looked like the same red as the hydro, but what I received was a light orange. Is that the correct color or should it be more red?
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
I had some time today so I worked on the engine. I got the new aluminum flyball spacer installed that I got from Boomer. I also installed the new crank seal in the timing cover and timing cover gasket. I also installed the oil pump gasket and oil filter adapter gasket. Earlier I had already installed the new oil filler tube seal. Hopefully all this will take care of my oil leaks. I also started cleaning everything up, it's looking better. Now I have to put the blower housing back on, then the head gaskets, valve cover gaskets etc. I'm also going to drill out the rivets in the intake and reseal it before putting it back on.
 

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They were pretty crummy looking so I painted my hydro, range selector and throttle knobs an orangish red like the originals and I did the PTO lever handle yellow on one of my 400's. Super cleaned them first with a scotch pad, which also served to scuff them up for paint adhesion. I painted them with a bunch of very thin coats, then let them sit all winter before I put them on. I think the extended curing time really helped. That was back in 2008. They've been used quite a bit but they still look good. I brought the hydro and the PTO knob with me so I could match the orange color for the range knob, the throttle and the hydro lever and the yellow knob for the PTO using lacquer touch up paint for vehicles. There's every color you can think of but the cans are small and not exactly cheap.
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